Oil Type?

[alaskaxj11]

The guys at the local Yamaha Shop suggested Yamalube Perfomance Semi-Synthetic SAE 10W-50. Took it for a ride tonight and the clutch is slipping. This bike has been garaged since 1998. Any suggestions as to the right oil type? Is this Semi-Syn Okay?

[crazy steve]

Unless you're riding in temps below 59 degrees, that's too thin. Switch to 20W-50...

[James England]

I only ever use 100% mineral oil in the XS1100. I would not ever use semi or full synthetic. I'd say it's almost 100% why your clutch is slipping. 20/50 mineral oil is best, I've found.

[tonyg-5386]

Shell Rotella 15w-40 in my 79. No problems at all.

[neJeff]

Shell Rotella 15w-40 in my 79. No problems at all.

Thats a +1 on the Rotella. I use it in all my bikes and it's inexpensive. Synthetic is not good for old motors. New motors or rebuilt I would say yes to synthetic

[trbig]

... Synthetic is not good for old motors. New motors or rebuilt I would say yes to synthetic

It's not that the synthetic oil is bad for old motors... it's just as good for them as new or rebuilt motors. The problem is the clutch friction plates designed for oil that was around 30+ years ago. So, I would see no problem running synthetic in a bike with a rebuilt clutch using modern friction discs... although I've heard a lot of tales about motors developing leaks with synthetic that they never had before?

[BA80]

Thats a +1 on the Rotella. I use it in all my bikes and it's inexpensive. Synthetic is not good for old motors. New motors or rebuilt I would say yes to synthetic

I used to use Rotella in other bikes too but it makes the 1100s clutch slip.

It's the clutch friction discs that don't like synthetic. As a matter of fact you could run just about anything you wanted except for the clutch problems.

[trbig]

Probably had nothing to do with the oil, but I used to use Rotella exclusively. The first motor I ran it in spun a crank bearing on the way to a rally. I rebuilt the motor and put new bearings and crank in, and that motor and bearings were toast after @ 2500 miles. Both issues were lube related, so I switched. Many have used it with no problems, so I'm just throwing this out there for a "Use at your own risk" type thing. I never had any clutch slippage issues with it though.

[neJeff]

It's not that the synthetic oil is bad for old motors... it's just as good for them as new or rebuilt motors. The problem is the clutch friction plates designed for oil that was around 30+ years ago. So, I would see no problem running synthetic in a bike with a rebuilt clutch using modern friction discs... although I've heard a lot of tales about motors developing leaks with synthetic that they never had before?

This is what I was referring too, the leaky aspect of the slippery synthetic in old motors

[BA80]

That is a trait of synthetic in any engine. If there is ANY place it can possibly leak synth will find it.

[ddragon63]

well I'll just step in here and blow all your minds... I have run Castrol ACT-EVO XTRA-4T in my XS many times. and it is a partial synthetic... Never had a problem with it, other than finding it in my local shop in 20w-50. Lately it seem to be like a needle in a haystack to find in that weight. All the V-twin guys have really jumped on it and eat it up faster than my lazy a$$ can get to it. So this last oil change I ended up with old school Castrol 4T as autozone stocks the crap out of it. The ACT-EVO is great oil. I've ran it in most every bike I've owned. 10w-40 in my rockets and dirt bikes, 20w-50 in Old Man and Izzy...
the only thing synthetic in a part synthetic oil is the additive pack. the base is still petro. As for the leaking anyone thats ever put anything synthetic in an old small block chevy will tell ya, it will find all the holes and exploit them REAL quick.

The slipping may be from too thin of oil... also make sure they gave you oil designed for a wet clutch. The only creature I know that runs that wide of a viscosity gap is BMW cars... they like the german 10w-50 and 10w-60 oils. YMMV just some food for thought....

I hate oil threads... they draw me in like a car wreck

[TopCatGr58]

Unless you're riding in temps below 59 degrees, that's too thin. Switch to 20W-50...

Hey Steve,

Check out his location ....Anchorage Alaska, I think 59 degrees is their HIGH!

Others have already provided the answer he needs, hopefully he can get regular dino juice up there in the greater white north. But he may want to run the 10-40 or 10-50 if he can get it...if they make that range??

The other thing for him(AlasakXj) needs to watch out for is the friction reducing statement on the SAE/API seal...you don't want to use any oil with that. But even after getting the right oil, the clutch may still slip....the OEM
springs wear out, and folks usually end up replacing theirs with good HeavyDuty type springs..Barnetts are recommended highly!

T.C.

[BA80]

The v-twins, Harley particularly, has a separate wet clutch from the oil run in the engine. Engine oil is completely separate from the clutch oil so you can run 2 different types.

Don't know about others.

[WSL91]

Nothing more fun than an oil thread

[ddragon63]

Probably had nothing to do with the oil, but I used to use Rotella exclusively. The first motor I ran it in spun a crank bearing on the way to a rally. I rebuilt the motor and put new bearings and crank in, and that motor and bearings were toast after @ 2500 miles. Both issues were lube related, so I switched. Many have used it with no problems, so I'm just throwing this out there for a "Use at your own risk" type thing. I never had any clutch slippage issues with it though.

+1... I'm personally not a fan of diesel oil in my motorcycle... they are WAY opposite engine designs. Sure diesel oil still has all the good stuff in it to protect like zinc and phos. but its designed for a low speed high work motor... not a high speed low work motor. I may be wrong but I'm sure Rotella doesn't have anti-foaming agents in it as its designed home moves @ 3800 max rpm and isn't being aerated by a constant mess gear box. Each to there own. Not gonna tell a Fella how to care for his bike or what to use. just trying to make a point.

I've heard alot of "oil is oil" conversation... its not. They may all start in the same crude vat, but the ad-packs are way different from one specification to the next. Just saying