Ever feel like you met your match??
Collapse
X
-
Most carbon-core plug wires will ohm out at 3K ohms (or more) per foot. They're also rather fragile; pulling on the wire (rather than the connectors at the ends) can break the conductor, trashing the wire. They'll also break down from just age, as well as too much heat. So you'll probably want to check them with your meter set on a 20K ohms scale while disconnected from the coil, and if you still get an 'open', the wire is bad...Leave a comment:
-
Pretty much all plug wires these days are resistor wires. You will read resistance in those carbon core wires. You should be able to find actual wire core wires at a high performance auto parts house. They still use solid wires on the race engines.Leave a comment:
-
Don, nope I never tried, It's got to be highly conductive though. I'll try ohming one today and see what happens.Leave a comment:
-
Phil, have you ever ohmed out those leads? The ones I have I can not get any connection, Ohm meter reads open even when I strip back a 1/8" or so to the carbon and touch it.
Pete, I will try that if these leads do not work.Leave a comment:
-
Don, you're probably not gonna find any car wires with the metal core, they will all be that carbon material. I have never had any problems using the carbon core wires on any of my bikes, YMMV.Leave a comment:
-
Well, the spare carbs helped some, except I could not get the floats to work, so had gas peeing all over. So, went back to the carbs. Stuck a small wire in all three holes in the throat of the body, the one out to the side seemed like it took a little effort to get the wire in there. Anyway, it seems to run a little better.
On the spark plug wires, I went back to Autozone, they brough out two other sets of Duralast, both had the same wire. It seems the center is some black material that is supposed to be conductive filled with white stranded stuff. That is surrounded by white silicone, which is wrapped in black rubber/silicone. The stuff at the store was conductive, the stuff I have is not. No matter what year of engine you look for all their wires are like this. SO I need ot run to NAPA or Smyth where the folks know something, maybe I can find normal spark plug wires!!Leave a comment:
-
I know it has to be something simple and stupid. The only thing I have not yet done is remove the fuel inlets from the carbs. Hate to ruin them trying to get them out. I will try my spare 79 carbs. see What they do for it. Can't hurt I would think.
Leave a comment:
-
Don. I bought a cheap wire set for my Accel coils that are for a 79 Camaro 3.8 V6, they are the carbon core type and they have the correct ends on them, just need to trim down the 2+3 plug ends. Cost about $20. They have been working fine for me for 5 years now. Hang in there, hopefully you find the problem very soon.Leave a comment:
-
hey don, did u fix the high voltage going to the coils?
ive seen green powdery stuff in old copper leads, lol
a partially blocked exhaust wouldnt affect the engine
so much at idle or cranking to check compression pressures.Leave a comment:
-
OK, so this seems to become the never ending saga.
To date, I have removed and cleaned the carbs several times, never finding any real improvement. Also replaced the carb boots, seemed better when I had the one sealed, but once I got it our for a good run after replacing them, In fact, it only has gotten worse, now seems to be running on two cylinders.
But, here is the confusing part, all four header pipes sizzle water. Adding choke seems to help it run a little faster, but still feels like two cylinders.
Next, replace the pick-up coils, had the ones form my wrecked SH, checked the gaps. right at .7 mm. No joy.
So, I went to replace coils, well, I bought a set of plug wires to replace the ones on the coils. Check ohms on terminals of coils, get 15k. Low side 3 ohms. Add wires, I get nothing on high side. Ok, now what, look at the wires I can not see any copper. WTF??!! Remove wires, check resistance, none. Cut a piece off, open it up length wise, no wire inside, the core is just white cottony stuff.
Really??!! Is this possible!!!???
So, now I decide to reinstall the old coils. Start the bike up, running on two cylinders. Now, my exhaust does not have a crossover. So I feel and listen to each side. It appears that only the right side is firing, left side I can feel puffs of air, but no real sound of combustion. So now I am wondering if I got something come loose in that muffler that has it partially blocked. But I get some and consistant compression on all four. If the exhaust were blocked would it effect compression?? Seams it would.
Any thoughts appreciated.Leave a comment:
-
OK. So if it was leaking a little when it was originally synched, and then it got worse, and then you fixed the vacuum leak, you need to synch again... or you can just wait for your boots, install them and resynch then.Leave a comment:
-
it might not be a problem, but the wires going to the coil
run thru a relay and it should read around 12 volts, if ur
getting 14.5 volts at the coil that could be causing a problem
especially if the coils are getting to hot or overheating,
maybe steve or randy can chime in they know more about
electrics than i do.Leave a comment:
-
So, it appears that it is a vacuum leak at the carb boot. It is better, not gone, but better substantially since the RTV on the boot.
So, now to get soem good boots or new ones. Then I will address the cracked coil. Got new wires for my Honda coils.
Then I can figure out the rear wheel/tire issue. The fun never ends when you own an antique.Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: