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Went to adjust my cam chain tension and the bolt is broken.

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  • Went to adjust my cam chain tension and the bolt is broken.

    I never did understand what I was supposed to adjust but when searching I saw a pic of a stock cam chain tensioner and was like HEY! Mine doesn't have that bolt on the side. Went and looked and now I can see that my adjusting bolt was snapped off, level with the body of the CCT.

    I have rough/erratic idling issues and I'm sure my carbs still have some issues but could the CCT not being adjusted be a huge problem or is it just a minor tweak? I am going to replace but am not sure whether I should get my hopes up that it'll fix my problems with my bike.

    Anyways, now to search for a CCT even though I've spent more on the bike than it's worth so far.
    1979 Special with 1980 motor and 1979 carbs

  • #2
    Originally posted by JeremyL View Post
    I never did understand what I was supposed to adjust but when searching I saw a pic of a stock cam chain tensioner and was like HEY! Mine doesn't have that bolt on the side. Went and looked and now I can see that my adjusting bolt was snapped off, level with the body of the CCT.

    I have rough/erratic idling issues and I'm sure my carbs still have some issues but could the CCT not being adjusted be a huge problem or is it just a minor tweak? I am going to replace but am not sure whether I should get my hopes up that it'll fix my problems with my bike.

    Anyways, now to search for a CCT even though I've spent more on the bike than it's worth so far.
    No minor tweak there! It WILL cause rough/erratic idleing..........and guaranteed cost you a motor if started and revved a bit without replacing. Lots of choices for the auto-adjuster. Seriously, don't waste your time fixin' that one. They will NOT hold chain guide tension with there age and extremely poor design.
    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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    • #3
      I was searching around and found out about the auto CCT change over. I had seem the topic before but assumed something that was an upgrade would mean more money. The Raptor tensioners on ebay are like $15 shipped and even cheaper than the XS11 tensioners there! ($35-40). Good thing I just didn't go buy a stock one! I'm excited to swap it now to see if it makes a difference in the way my bike runs.

      I dunno who broke the bolt but I got the bike a year ago and have put a few hundred miles on it since then, dunno how many that idiot put on before I got the bike. This about the 12th thing I've found that the guy rigged up and have had to fix. 1980 spec jets in a 1979 carbs, etc.
      1979 Special with 1980 motor and 1979 carbs

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      • #4
        sounds like u could be lucky
        and the bolt is tight enuf on the
        push rod, usually the threads on the cct
        goes before the bolt breaks,
        if u havent replaced the cct before, be
        sure to read up on it so u dont go accidently
        slipping the chain.
        pete


        new owner of
        08 gen2 hayabusa


        former owner
        1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
        zrx carbs
        18mm float height
        145 main jets
        38 pilots
        slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
        fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

        [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

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        • #5
          Hey Jeremy,

          Here's the thread started a couple of years ago that eventually led to the discovery of the ACCT mod.

          http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...light=defeated

          It's a bit long, but a must read for you to realize the need for caution in removing and replacing a CCT on these old machines. Depending on how many miles on your engine, the cam chain may have a fair amount of stretch already and you may not have much more slack that can be adjusted out before the chain will need to be replaced!?

          As to how yours got broken, sounds like the PO tried to tighten the bolt before loosening the lock nut, or just cranked on it way too much trying to set the bolt tension...but as has been said, the bolt is steel and it will usually STRIP out the threads of the aluminum CCT housing way before the head would shear off!?

          T.C.
          T. C. Gresham
          81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
          79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
          History shows again and again,
          How nature points out the folly of men!

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          • #6
            When you go to replace it, be sure and floowing the procedures for adjusting the tensioner.... i.e.
            1. Put the bike on the centerstand (important).
            2. Remove the timing cover and loosen the spark plugs so it is easier to move the crank
            3. Rotate the crank at least one complete revolution in the direction of the arrow on the timing cover (clockwise) and stop on the C Mark. Do not pass the C mark and come backwards. I use a 3/4 inch open end wrench that just fits. YMMV
            4. Remove the old tensioner.
            5. Replace the tensioner and make sure there is some tension (which ever tensioner you use.
            6. rotate the crank slowly making sure there is nothing catching (like a valve to piston contact in case the chain slipped. If you feel the chain slip, STOP.
            7. If all is well, button it all back together and tighten the spark plugs.

            Maybe this is more info than you asked for, but it may help a novice out there with the same deal.
            Skids (Sid Hansen)

            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
            03 Honda ST1300 ABS

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