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  • Wheel balancing

    Hi Folks

    I see that most XS11's in the USA use tubeless tyres (in the UK, the XS11's have tubed tyres usually). I recently bought new tyres for my XJR1300 and decided to try and change them myself and then balance the wheels. The local bike place charges about $50 for two wheels. So, in these difficult times, I thought I'd try and save by doing it all myself. In the UK, most XS1100's have tubed tyres and I was slightly daunted by the prospect of doing two tubeless ones but it all worked out really well. This was the first time I had done this.

    Here's a link to a video I found of someone breaking the bead with only two pieces of wood (and a truck...). I did exactly this and it is so simple.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grunCumm8go

    I used rim protectors and two tyre levers and was surprised at how easy it is to change the tyres.

    This then left wheel balancing. Continuing the mediaeval timber approach, I made my own wheel balancer using bits of wood, two metal L brackets off an old cupboard, four allen bolts with nuts and washers and four new bearings meant for the little wheels on skateboards. The bearings cost $10 for a pack of ten and the rest of the stuff was lying around in the workshop.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1VzYybb_P8

    The final result..ie a perfectly balanced wheel... is shown here.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4Q097oFuPM


    The balancer I made is good enough to keep and use in the future. Over here, a metal wheel balancer costs $90 or so and I doubt it would be any easier to use or any more effective. The best thing about doing it yourself is that you aren't dependent on anyone else and I'm sure most people will be more careful of their own rims than the average mechanic....
    XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

  • #2
    Only the 1978 XS11 had tube type wheels.
    1978 XS1100E
    1982 XJ650RJ Seca
    2001 Yamaha XT225
    2002 Suzuki DR650
    2008 Suzuki DL650 VStrom
    AMA charter life member

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Tom Andersen View Post
      Only the 1978 XS11 had tube type wheels.
      some of the early 79 models still had tubed rims.
      1979 XS1100F
      1980 XS1100SG(First bike, sold)

      Other bikes
      1976 Kawasaki KZ400 (project)
      1983 Yamaha XV920 Midnight Special
      1984 Yamaha XT250 Enduro (project)

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Tom Andersen View Post
        Only the 1978 XS11 had tube type wheels.
        In the USA, you mean? In the UK the only tubeless XS11's are the imported ones. The bikes for the European market all had tubed tyres and a different rim profile from non-Euro ones. I don't know why they did that. It did seem to take a long time for tubeless tyres to catch one here..
        XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

        Comment


        • #5
          I picked up a bead breaker and tire balancer from Harbor Freight. Yes its Chinese stuff but I'll use it once a year?. It will pay for itself with a couple tires and I have 3 motorcycles and 3 tractors. Best part is I can do it when I want.
          Next year the Honda will need a front and back, the XS will need a rear. I still prefer hard wheel weights over dyna beads but whatever floats your boat.
          1970? Honda Z50... gone
          1974? Yamaha 100 Enduro... gone
          1974 Honda CB200... gone
          1981 Yamaha Virago 750... gone
          1993 Honda Shadow 1100... gone
          2008 Honda VTX 1800F
          1982 Yamaha XJ1100J w/850 final, Raptor ACCT
          1979 Yamaha XS1100SF "Chewey" Raptor ACCT

          http://www.johnsoldiron.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Tyre Balance

            Great presentation James. Can't believe how sensitive your rig is. I have heard that it is best to split the weights and move them equal distance away from the spot so that all the weight is not in one spot. my 2p worth.
            Larry Walker

            Ham Radio kw4a
            ex Submarine Sailor (8 yrs)
            Dirt Rider 1970-1980
            Sreet Rider Touring 1980-2000
            Couch Potato 2000-Present
            1980 XS1100 Standard
            1979 XS650 Special
            2000 BMW R1150GS

            Comment


            • #7
              Ok James that was completely awesome I really want to thank you for posting that as I've installed my own tires before but never balanced to that accuracy. Absolutely a great way to do this kind of work I'm going to build my own stand tomorrow cause it turns out I have an old skate board and plenty of lumber.
              Even a blind monkey gets the odd banana.

              1979 XS 1100 special (been down the PO trail and it was messy)

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Rooster View Post
                Ok James that was completely awesome I really want to thank you for posting that as I've installed my own tires before but never balanced to that accuracy. Absolutely a great way to do this kind of work I'm going to build my own stand tomorrow cause it turns out I have an old skate board and plenty of lumber.
                I'm pleased you like it and that you're going to try yourself. I thought people might laugh at the wood aspect of things!

                See the top two brackets that hold the bearings? Depending on your wheel axles, you may have to adjust the position in or out a bit by moving one bracket. On my XJR1300 the front axle is a lot shorted than the rear. Somehow though, I suspect that this won't be necessary on the XS1100 as the axles are about the same length.

                When you build it, use one of your axles as a guide. Also, you need to put a small washer behind each bearing, smaller than the outer diameter, so the bearing doesn't catch on the bracket. You just pad it out slightly. I then put an allen bolt straight through as the head of the bolt was just overthe size of the inner bearing race. See what I mean?

                BTW, I got stick on weights and put them on yesterday, instead of the clip-on sort. Then I took the bike up to 110mph and the wheels are absolutely perfectly balanced. It works!
                XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by steelraider View Post
                  Great presentation James. Can't believe how sensitive your rig is. I have heard that it is best to split the weights and move them equal distance away from the spot so that all the weight is not in one spot. my 2p worth.
                  I'm glad you liked it. Yes, you're right re the wieghts. The ones in the video were temporary as I didn't have the stick-on ones yet. I bought some black ones which are very discreet. When I stuck them on, I did in fact do as you suggested. They work a treat..
                  XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by James England View Post
                    I'm pleased you like it and that you're going to try yourself. I thought people might laugh at the wood aspect of things!
                    No laughing here....its called ingenuity and we all need a certain measure of that if we work on our own machines.

                    I do a similar thing but on my end I substitute the woodwork for two of my wrought iron patio chairs. Hmmm, guess you can say I get to use my balancer all year around.
                    Mike Giroir
                    79 XS-1100 Special

                    Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks, James, for putting all the pieces together. I bought one of your bearings and have been looking at it on the bench and wondering what the heck to do/buy next. Great post!

                      Where do you get the bearings?
                      1995 KZ100P
                      Pods, jets, pipes, cam adjuster, oil cooler

                      1977 Ironhead - custom build
                      Hot engine, custom frame, KZ front and rear, high torque starter, alternator conversion, Progressive shocks, Thunderheart wiring, Dyna ignition, oil cooler, Dakota Digital instruments, etc.

                      Sold all my XS's to Eastcoaster but still love to keep up with you guys. This is the best cycle forum on the web.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Nice rig there James, I use a similar method...





                        2H7 (79)
                        3H3

                        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by James England View Post
                          In the USA, you mean? In the UK the only tubeless XS11's are the imported ones. The bikes for the European market all had tubed tyres and a different rim profile from non-Euro ones. I don't know why they did that. It did seem to take a long time for tubeless tyres to catch one here..
                          Yes that's what I mean James, in the USA. I didn't know some early '79s still had tube type. I swapped my wheels with an '80 to get the tubeless.
                          1978 XS1100E
                          1982 XJ650RJ Seca
                          2001 Yamaha XT225
                          2002 Suzuki DR650
                          2008 Suzuki DL650 VStrom
                          AMA charter life member

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Aches n Pains View Post
                            Where do you get the bearings?
                            I bought mine on eBay. Just type in 'skateboard bearing' and you'll find loads of them at very little cost.....
                            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by TADracer View Post
                              I substitute the woodwork for two of my wrought iron patio chairs.
                              Aaah, yours is the classy version. I've gone for the mediaeval look.....
                              XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                              Comment

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