Brass Floats?

[natemoen]

Drilling is a ABSOLUTE LAST RESORT!! Use a small bolt and an acorn but and force them back up and loose enough to then push out with a small dental pick.

Drilling them out pretty much always enlarges the holes and changes the shape of the hole and then you end up with an always rich condition.

[fredintoon]

I didnt feel like starting a new thread so i am just going to post on this one. I started cleaning these carbs up and noticed all 4 idle mixture screw tips are broke off in the bottom of the holes and someone used diffierent style screws to cover it up. My question is how do i go about drilling them out? I saw a treead on here somewhere. Where someone had done this but i could not locate it. If someone could advise me on how to do it or could find that tread i would appriciate it. Thanks.

Hi GT,
like Nate sez, drilling is the last resort but ya gotta do what ya gotta do, eh?
You will need to use a bench drill.
Set the carb body perfectly upright on the bench drill work platform.
Use a drill bit that just fits inside the mixture screw threads to align the drill chuck with the mixture screw hole.
Remove that drill bit and put in a Ø1mm (0.039") drill bit to drill out the busted needle end.
Some bench drill chucks (for instance, mine) won't grip a drill bit that small.
I used a Ø1/16" drill bit instead.
Worked OK, just coarsens the adjustment, is all.

[clcorbin]

If you are brave, you can do what I did when I collapsed two of my floats due to gross stupidity and an air hose...

Seeing as I had nothing to lose but a bit of time AND the fact that they were brass and I could solder, I chose to drill a 1/16" hole in the top of each float and then use compressed air, CAREFULLY pressurize the float until it expands back to it's original size. Because it is a small, cylinder shaped float, the internal hoop stress will try to bring it back to a perfect shape and given how thin the copper is, it is very easy to form it and it will stay.

After you get them back to shape, use a good iron and good solder with rosin (Personally, I wouldn't use acid flux for this) flux and seal the hole. It is also a good time to verify it is sealed up with the hot water test.

If it doesn't work, you can always replace them, so you really have nothing to lose. And, mine worked perfectly.

[clcorbin]

Drilling is a ABSOLUTE LAST RESORT!! Use a small bolt and an acorn but and force them back up and loose enough to then push out with a small dental pick.

Drilling them out pretty much always enlarges the holes and changes the shape of the hole and then you end up with an always rich condition.

I saw this post and was going to jump in with "We are talking about collapsed floats, what the heck are you talking about???" Then I looked down and saw what you were replying to...

GSXR1100,

DON'T DO THAT!!!!! It takes about 5 seconds longer to start your own thread AND it keeps you from SCREWING up the flow of someone else's thread. Hell, it is even easier for you to track the replies to YOUR post when it is a thread dedicated to YOUR problem.

[clcorbin]

I saw this post and was going to jump in with "We are talking about collapsed floats, what the heck are you talking about???" Then I looked down and saw what you were replying to...

GSXR1100,

DON'T DO THAT!!!!! It takes about 5 seconds longer to start your own thread AND it keeps you from SCREWING up the flow of someone else's thread. Hell, it is even easier for you to track the replies to YOUR post when it is a thread dedicated to YOUR problem.

Of course, now I realize that YOU were the OP, so screwing up your own threads is not nearly as bad manors, but it still makes it harder to track what is going on!!!

I have GOT to quit posting in the morning! My brain is still asleep...

[GTXS1100]

DON'T DO THAT!!!!! It takes about 5 seconds longer to start your own thread AND it keeps you from SCREWING up the flow of someone else's thread. Hell, it is even easier for you to track the replies to YOUR post when it is a thread dedicated to YOUR problem.

Um this is my thread this is where it all starts. Finding out what carbs i have, locating parts such as floats, now my idle screw problem. I posted here now because its still the same set of carbs and i dont have to back track is someone wants no know something they can look back to earlyer post. Also my name is "GT"XS1100. So take a few seconds to slow down and read a few post before jumping in.


Thanks for the advice ill try pressing them out before i drill. I dont have a drill press to chuck her in anyway. We will see what happens. I guess i can always take her down to a machine shop and have them try to get them out.
Im not sure how you can push them out when you are so limmited on space. but ill do some more resurch. Thanks guys.

[GLoweVA]

Here's the tech tip for removing stuck/broken idle mix screw tips.
http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...p-removal.html

Here In post #12: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...=tip+acorn+nut

This one shows how to do it with a small bolt and acorn nut.

Hope this helps.

[GTXS1100]

Big help!

Thats perfect George thanks. Ill try that tonight. Wish me luck.

[jayel]

back to floats lol here's and little info on the differences between the BS38 and BS34 floats...

Floats for BS34
Dimensions/Attributes are as follows:
Pivot width: 17.7mm
Pontoon dia: 28.6mm
Pontoon thickness: 13.8mm
Pontoon separation: 24.1mm
Pivot Ctr to Pontoon Ctr: 29mm
Width Overall: 51.7mm
Material: Soldered Brass

Floats for BS38
Dimensions/Attributes are as follows:
Pivot width: 17.8mm
Pontoon dia: 30mm
Pontoon thickness: 14mm
Pontoon separation: 30mm
Pivot Ctr to Pontoon Ctr: 25mm
Width Overall: 58mm
Material: Soldered Brass

[clcorbin]

Um this is my thread this is where it all starts.

Yeah, I figured that out about 60 seconds after posting that and then posted this:

Of course, now I realize that YOU were the OP, so screwing up your own threads is not nearly as bad manors, but it still makes it harder to track what is going on!!!

I have GOT to quit posting in the morning! My brain is still asleep...

Of course, it STILL isn't noon yet, so once more I am posting in the morning...

[mikubuilder]

back to floats lol here's and little info on the differences between the BS38 and BS34 floats...

Floats for BS34
Dimensions/Attributes are as follows:
Pivot width: 17.7mm
Pontoon dia: 28.6mm
Pontoon thickness: 13.8mm
Pontoon separation: 24.1mm
Pivot Ctr to Pontoon Ctr: 29mm
Width Overall: 51.7mm
Material: Soldered Brass

Floats for BS38
Dimensions/Attributes are as follows:
Pivot width: 17.8mm
Pontoon dia: 30mm
Pontoon thickness: 14mm
Pontoon separation: 30mm
Pivot Ctr to Pontoon Ctr: 25mm
Width Overall: 58mm
Material: Soldered Brass

Yeah, I thought that's what I read few years back....