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Light and Tach problem

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  • #16
    Thanks for all that info. I will try to start that after this weekedn (moving) but I am not very familiar with engines and electrical systems so I hope I don't cause more dmg then I fix. I wonder what it would cost to pay a shop to take a look as it doesn't sound like it involves expensive parts but rather just electrical knowledge and wire testing.

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    • #17
      STATOR CONNECTIONS

      Please look behind the fuse box on the right hand side for a connector with three white wires(there might be a red or black one on that connecter as well).The white wires I am refering to are wrapped in a fiberglass cloth type of insulation,and go to your alternator housing by passing under your case on the right side.These are the three windings that are being talked about.None of them connect directly to ground,but pass through the rectifier/regulator unit befor going to ground.The tach signal, as well as charge current come from the rectifier/regulator unit.
      My connectors at this plug were bad.They are in a location where battery leakage, and road dirt can accumulate.There should be almost a dead short between any two of the white wires, but no leakage to ground.
      The service manual gives a good description for testing the rectifier/regulator, but you need a good volt/ohm meter.The special also uses a relay to turn on the lamp's, and headlight, then the reserve lighting unit keep's them on after you start up.
      I wouldnt recomend disconnecting your ground wire from the battery either.The battery is needed to keep the voltage in check at the regulator.That is how people fry the electrical system's in a car by using a battery charger set to the "start" position.In order to get the high starting CURRENT needed to crank a dead motor, the chargers output VOLTAGE can be upwards of 25 to 30 volt's.The battery will help clamp down this high voltage, but with a totaly dead battery, of a disconnected battery, the terminal voltage can go up high enough to fry sensitive electronics.
      I would be glad to help you walk through the wiring, if you want.You need to pick up a digital volt/ohm meter.I cant imagine life without one!
      You can Email me direct at,
      "popeyebob@aol.com"
      ******************SPLASH*************************
      "BIG JOHNSON"
      1981 XS1100SH
      FINISHED,READY TO RIDE

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      • #18
        My dad has one. i will borrow it from him. Thanks that helps alot. I have the service manual as well and will do that. I saw the wires you are talking about when I took the fuse plate off to follow where the bundles from the stator coild went to. Think I know which ones you eman.

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        • #19
          The things you need are a tester{what you use to test for hot wires}stuff to clean the connecters{can be electrical spray cleaner,WD40}those are ones I know, could be others.Something to wipe them off.A wireing diagram,found in service manual and last, lots of time.Don`t get in a hurry because to do it right it takes a while.I have proably missed something if anybody has anymore suggestions and hints we will help as much as we can. Good luck and take your time not hard just slow.
          Bill Harvell

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