Clutch issues?!?

[Lbrown311]

So I'm out driving to a buddies last night, and my bike sometimes will be a pain in the ass to get into 2nd from first. It sometimes wants to stop in neutral before having to be shifted again up to 2nd. This time it decided that it wasn't going to move at all. I was stuck in the middle of a road and the shift lever wasn't moving but it was stuck in between gears cuz I couldn't move. I finally decided that I was going to put enough pressure on it and get it unstuck. Thanksfully it worked and has ran fine since. The question I have is: What are my issues that would cause ****ty shifting? It has to be something with the clutch because that is where it is the most problematic. Maybe clutch springs? I have read a ton about clutch problems and fixes, but can't remember most of them as I have read this whole damn website since. Won't be working on it today as it is gross outside and my garage is a small 1 stall and doesn't have heat or very good lighting and has 5 bikes in it along with a ton of parts.

[BA80]

Mine jammed in 2nd the other day and scared me too. I shifted it back down to first the back to 2nd and it's been OK so far.

I doubt it's the clutch, more than likely something with the pins and rachet assembly on the shift drum under the left rear engine cover. We both may have a pin trying to fall out.

Here's a couple pics.....

[Lbrown311]

Looks very plausible. I will have to dig a bit once I get some weather. If I find anything or you find anything let me know what caused yours to happen.

[trbig]

Seems I've seen those pics before, Greg?


Yeah, the star washer that holds those pins in get their little ears or tabs bent sometimes. But, your problem could also be a bent shift fork. Greg's option would be an easier check though.

[BA80]

Seems I've seen those pics before, Greg?

They're good pics for explanation purposes. I stole 'em.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Lance,

Although a sticking/dragging clutch that isn't fully releasing could aggravate shifting by keeping stress on the gears, if you have your clutch properly adjusted 1st at the engine, and then the proper amount of slack at the handlebar, so that when you pull the lever the clutch is truly disengaged, then it falls to the other ideas that the fellows have suggested.

What's missing in the first fine photo is another arrow pointing to the groove that is cut into the side of both the shift pawl lever and the shift drum at about the 10 o'clock position. Those are the alignment marks to ensure that the pawl is positioned so that it has room to move through it's full throw action to be able to rotate the drum the distance it needs to for proper full shifting action.

The manual describes the alignment process, bike needs to be in 2nd gear, then ensure that the marks are aligned, if not then you loosen the locknut on the shift lever near the shift spring, and adjust/rotate the center screw so that it moves the assembly until the marks line up on the shift pawl and drum, then lock it back down.

And as the others have stated, inspecting the drum star washer for signs of the tangs bending and the pins sliding out, but it's more common with 5th gear than the earlier ones.

Good luck.
T.C.

[trbig]

What TC was talking about... Disregard everything but the red lines. The scribe marks on the left and the dots on the right will all line up in 2nd gear if everything is correct.

[BhamminXS]

thanks guys exactly what i needed i think im hopefuly heading back out to m buddies tonight to get back at it i will post my results as soon as able