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  • clutch replacement

    The XJ11 clutch slips under higher RPM, it was there when I bought the bike but worsened after using synthetic oil. I have Barnett clutch springs to install & have decided to replace my friction plates as well. I'm now wondering about the 7 metal plates sandwiched in-between and also about some additional plates.

    Looking at the diagram here http://tinyurl.com/7uvjk69 I see the 8 friction (#9) and 7 metal (#10) plates but then there is clutch plate (#7) (yamaha part - 2H7-16324-00-00) and I don't see that one listed in Barnett's list of clutch parts http://www.barnettclutches.com/produ...clutch_cc=1100

    Is it customary to replace clutch plate (#7) and the ring boss (#8)
    Also, are the metal plates usually replaced or just the friction plates?

    Thanks!
    82 XJ1100 Maxim "hurricane"- DEKA EXT18L AGM battery , NGK BPR6EIX spark plugs, Green Dyna coils, Sylvania SilverStar Ultra H4 bulb, 139 dB Stebel Nautilus air horn, Home-made K&N air filter based on an original paper filter frame, new piston rings, Barnett Clutch Springs, SS braid/Teflon brake lines, TKAT fork brace, rebuilt calipers, master cylinders, new brakes, reupholstered seat, lotsa little things and so many answered questions here.

  • #2
    If you have Barnett springs and new frictions I would not add another steel. 9 out of 10 times it is weak springs that cause slip. Do the straight replacement first and your prob will most likely be solved. Ditch the synthetic (OK, dont ditch it but recycle it) and run some dino oil for awhile before you do the clutch work. When your clutch is apart look the steel floaters over. If any are burned blue then check them for warp and replace any that are (very rare) then sand the surfaces with some 120 grit paper before re-installing. Wear your new clutch in with some normal riding before you go blasting up to redline.
    Mike Giroir
    79 XS-1100 Special

    Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

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    • #3
      If replacing the stock friction plates with modern ones, the synthetic oil should not be a problem, though I do think it's a waste of money.

      The new Barnett springs are going to fairly significantly increase your clutch-pull effort, though you won't notice after the first couple days. I would bet a beer to a 6-pack that those springs are all you'll need. An extra steel plate will help, but it's kind of the poor man's way to increase spring pressure, and you'll not need any more than those Barnett springs are going to give you.
      Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

      You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

      Current bikes:
      '06 Suzuki DR650
      *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
      '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
      '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
      '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
      '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
      '81 XS1100 Special
      '81 YZ250
      '80 XS850 Special
      '80 XR100
      *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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      • #4
        Thanks for the replies!

        I'm not referring to adding a plate, I'm wondering if I need to replace an existing one that is different/separate than the 7 regular steel plates. If you look for part #7 in the clutch boss assembly there is a plate called "Plate, Clutch 1" I'm wondering about that one. It's not part of the parts Barnett makes.

        You can see plate #7 here: http://www.yamahapartshouse.net/page...J1100J_-_1982)

        In the short term I'm just going to replace the springs and then at a carb clinic where there's help if needed, I'll replace the friction plates there & steel plates if needed. I just need to bring all the parts I'll need with me.

        As to the extra plate, I did see mention of that on the tech tips section http://xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/...eel-plate.html Still unsure if I need to put that in with Barnett friction plates.
        82 XJ1100 Maxim "hurricane"- DEKA EXT18L AGM battery , NGK BPR6EIX spark plugs, Green Dyna coils, Sylvania SilverStar Ultra H4 bulb, 139 dB Stebel Nautilus air horn, Home-made K&N air filter based on an original paper filter frame, new piston rings, Barnett Clutch Springs, SS braid/Teflon brake lines, TKAT fork brace, rebuilt calipers, master cylinders, new brakes, reupholstered seat, lotsa little things and so many answered questions here.

        Comment


        • #5
          Just remember you need to soak those friction discs in the "to be used lubricant" for a dat or so before install.
          Nathan
          KD9ARL

          μολὼν λαβέ

          1978 XS1100E
          K&N Filter
          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
          OEM Exhaust
          ATK Fork Brace
          LED Dash lights
          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

          Green Monster Coils
          SS Brake Lines
          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

          Theodore Roosevelt

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          • #6
            The one u are referibg to is part of the steel disks that we are talking about. Sand them down ( dont go to crazy), check for warpage, reinstall....
            _____________________________________________ 1979 XS 1100 Special "The judge" mods- K&N air pods, 4-1 mac, 147.5 pilots, 57.5 mains, LED turn signal, cafe bars, HEL translucent yellow stainless steel brake line, dyna coil (dc2-1), raptor 660 mc, r6 controls..(sold)

            1982 gs1100e "all business" cafe project
            1980 gs1000g "stock"
            1982 honda express "stretched 10 inch(my daughters scooter)
            2008 jmstar 150cc Chinese scooter ( wife's bike)

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