2 oil questions

[Kevin W]

Hi everybody,
I'm changing my oil and filter on my XJ. When I pulled off the oil filter cover I failed to notice where the 1/16 washer goes. It's big enough to go over the bolt that runs through the filter. Since the cover is a little chewed up, I was thinking the PO might have used it between the head of the bolt and the oil cover itself.
And the second question is I think the PO put synthetic oil in the bike because at higher speeds (85 mph on expressway) I felt like I had clutch slippage. It's not that I drive that way very often, but I have never felt it on my XS850 that I've never put synthetic in. Also the oil seems thin to me.
TIA for any help. I did a search on oil and plan on using castrol 20w50 FWIW. Kevin W

[BA80]

The spring goes first in the cup then the washer so it's against the filter when installed.

Castrol 4T 20w50 mineral oil is the proper oil. It will take a few miles to work the sythetic out of the friction plates then the slip should ease up.

[DGXSER]

Kevin,

As to the oil, well, could be. Could also be weak springs in the clutch, another common issue with these bikes.

As to the washer, it goes on top of the spring, inside the oil filter housing. It keep the spring from pushing through the oil filter.

[Kevin W]

Thanks for the responses. The spring was in my oil pan....!
As far as the clutch springs, I changed them a few thousand miles ago when I did the 2nd gear fix so superbly laid out in the repair section. Since I think the castrol is conventional oil I'll see if it makes a difference.
KW

[James England]

I always use 100% mineral oil only. The bikes were designed to run on it (that being all that was available in 1970's). I'd say your slippage is definitely due to the oil and less likely to be the springs, in fact.

[BA80]

In the oil pan? Someone would have had to deliberatly drop it in there.

[BA80]

I always use 100% mineral oil only. The bikes were designed to run on it (that being all that was available in 1970's). I'd say your slippage is definitely due to the oil and less likely to be the springs, in fact.

+1 on the oil James. However, the springs are also a very common problem.

[MaximPhil]

Thanks for the responses. The spring was in my oil pan....!
As far as the clutch springs, I changed them a few thousand miles ago when I did the 2nd gear fix so superbly laid out in the repair section. Since I think the castrol is conventional oil I'll see if it makes a difference.
KW

Hi Kevin,
If you have already done the springs i know the adjustment can be a bit tricky too. Though the synthetic oil is the most likely cause.
Phil

[natemoen]

Depending on what springs you put in they could be the problem still. I have less than 1000 miles on brand new EBC springs and they are slipping already.

[Poprock]

Synthetic makes starter clutches slip in cold weather, for sure. I run mineral oil now (Mobil Delvac 15-50 or equivalent) and it works fine. Castrol is tops, but this stuff comes in a gallon can so I always have a place to put the used oil.

[Kevin W]

I hope it's not the springs! I got them through my local Yamaha dealer. (meaning they gave me the right ones?) I wound up using Rotella 15-40 since it was only $14 a gallon. I'll report back on my next ride. Thanks again for the help.
KW

[BA80]

I hope it's not the springs! I got them through my local Yamaha dealer. (meaning they gave me the right ones?) I wound up using Rotella 15-40 since it was only $14 a gallon. I'll report back on my next ride. Thanks again for the help.
KW

I can testify to the fact that Rotella will cause clutch slip. That is what I used in my old Honda CX500 and it worked fine but with the added horspower of the XS1100 it WILL slip.

[skids]

You are saying that the Rotella SYNTHETIC is bad and not the other I hope...

[motoman]

Actually BOTH Sid. Their dino also went with modifiers once it was no longer diesel specific. Three yrs. ago was the only and last time I had Rotella in my XS. Clutch slipped, noiser top-end, excessive heat when syncing even with a large fan cooling motor. Went with 20-50w Vavoline(automotive version). Now finding the 20-50w Vavoline 4-stroke motorcycle specific oil to be a buck cheaper per quart than the automotive 20-50w, am using it. Same quiet top-end and clutch hooks up even more solid than previously being wet clutch specific.