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  • #1

    risers for drag bars

    Well threw a set of drag bars(black ones form mikes) on and ran into some problems with clearing the tank and the brake resivoire hitting the tack. They are on there and i love them compared to the original as far as looks and improved handling.

    I hate having to use a riser(takes away from looks IMO) but stuff happens. Am considering using these http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATV-MX-SNOWM...ht_2860wt_1101 just for adjustability. Will just the one inch risers work or are they not high enough. Anybody got pics of how you mounted your drag bars with risers. I have spent the last 2hrs looking around on here but most pics from old threads have been removed.
    95 Dodge 2500 RCLB 2wd 5spd cummins 303k miles. Alot of go fast parts and smoke.

    80 xs1100sg 16k miles. Kerker 4 to1 Pods with stock airbox tubes. 120 mains 45 pilots slipping clutch

    86 Samurai soft top 16v tracker motor, 6.5 to 1 t-case gears 34" tractor tires among other stuff

    Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Only you can see where the card hit your tank. How much more height do you need?

    Put a straight edge across the top of your tank and then turn the bars and measure.
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

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    • #3
      Originally posted by natemoen View Post
      Only you can see where the card hit your tank. How much more height do you need?

      Put a straight edge across the top of your tank and then turn the bars and measure.
      My thoughts exactly. Sorry K.C. but he makes a good point. Did you measure the point of contact to see how much clearance you'll need? Those risers you posted look nice and should blend fairly well since they match the color of the bars.

      An after thought I just had was to wrap the riser section with leather or a leather bag which might make the junction appear smoother and you will get storage for your keys n stuff.
      Last edited by New2Me; 03-31-2012, 11:19 AM.
      1980 XS1100G
      -4:2 exhaust
      -Pods
      -Who knows what the future holds..

      Comment

      • #4
        same problem

        i had the same problem with mine and this is what i did

        made them out of an old set of handlbars i had laying around, and welded it to my drag bars. they work great, dont hit the tank and also set the bars back a little so that i dont feel like i am leaning forward.
        this is how the look finished
        xs1100 hartail bobber

        http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...-38-36_563.jpg

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        • #5
          Nightengale, your bars look great... simple clean and lean!

          scoot

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          • #6
            Originally posted by scoot View Post
            Nightengale, your bars look great... simple clean and lean!

            scoot
            thanks, thats the look i wanted. I had thought about risers but couldnt find any that i liked so, i figured i could make my own. they do make handle bars that already look like that, but since i already had the drag bars some tools, and trying to do everything cheap thought i would try to make my own. i like them alot better than the regular drag bars.
            oh and by the way they are about two inches above where the drag bar originally sat and clear the tank just right. so if you did go with the risers you need to go at least two inches to keep everything off of the tank.
            Last edited by Nightengale; 03-31-2012, 07:46 PM.
            xs1100 hartail bobber

            http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...-38-36_563.jpg

            Comment

            • #7
              double post
              Last edited by killercummins; 04-01-2012, 12:24 AM.
              95 Dodge 2500 RCLB 2wd 5spd cummins 303k miles. Alot of go fast parts and smoke.

              80 xs1100sg 16k miles. Kerker 4 to1 Pods with stock airbox tubes. 120 mains 45 pilots slipping clutch

              86 Samurai soft top 16v tracker motor, 6.5 to 1 t-case gears 34" tractor tires among other stuff

              Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

              Comment

              • #8
                Well i was just looking for more homemade ideas than anything. It was 2 in the mourning and i was bored(kinda like now). The tank clearance isnt that bad it hits right before full lock but i never turn all the way to full lock anyway. I was more concerned with the way the master cylinder is twisted up to clear the tach. There is not that many risers out there(atleast ones that i know will work) the ones i posted and another offset set thats even more expensive and only a 1". I didnt get a chance to really check the clearances or anything bc as soon as i got them on it started storming and i was 20 miles from where i keep it at(fun ride). After looking i believe two inches would be best to clear not only the tank but the tach aswell.

                That is a pretty sweet setup you got there nightengale. Thats what i was looking into doin with the old buckhorns i took off. Just only about an inch tall and then i could tilt it back some aswell. It doesn't look as bad as i pictured it in my mind. Thanks for the pics.
                95 Dodge 2500 RCLB 2wd 5spd cummins 303k miles. Alot of go fast parts and smoke.

                80 xs1100sg 16k miles. Kerker 4 to1 Pods with stock airbox tubes. 120 mains 45 pilots slipping clutch

                86 Samurai soft top 16v tracker motor, 6.5 to 1 t-case gears 34" tractor tires among other stuff

                Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Originally posted by killercummins View Post
                  Well i was just looking for more homemade ideas than anything. It was 2 in the mourning and i was bored(kinda like now). The tank clearance isnt that bad it hits right before full lock but i never turn all the way to full lock anyway. I was more concerned with the way the master cylinder is twisted up to clear the tach. There is not that many risers out there(atleast ones that i know will work) the ones i posted and another offset set thats even more expensive and only a 1". I didnt get a chance to really check the clearances or anything bc as soon as i got them on it started storming and i was 20 miles from where i keep it at(fun ride). After looking i believe two inches would be best to clear not only the tank but the tach aswell.

                  That is a pretty sweet setup you got there nightengale. Thats what i was looking into doin with the old buckhorns i took off. Just only about an inch tall and then i could tilt it back some aswell. It doesn't look as bad as i pictured it in my mind. Thanks for the pics.
                  no problem glad i could help, everyone on here have been a big help to me with my project just glad i could help someone too.
                  xs1100 hartail bobber

                  http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...-38-36_563.jpg

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Ive been welding things together for many, many years and I'm not sure if you allowed for it or not, but I'd be concerned about riding with bars welded like that unless I knew they'd been done by a certified welder. Just me, but the thought of a weld cracking and/or breaking at a critical moment fair makes my sphincter wrinkle.
                    1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
                    2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

                    Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

                    "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Not that big of a deal. Really not that much weight on the bars(depends on rider but my guess couple hundred pounds under hard braking) compared to other common welded things by non cert. welders. Bumpers, roll cages, gooseneck hitches ect. There is more pressure on the clamp just do to the fact that there is more leverage, im more worried about it slipping. Id rather keep my life in my hands rather than some guy with fancy name tag.JMO
                      95 Dodge 2500 RCLB 2wd 5spd cummins 303k miles. Alot of go fast parts and smoke.

                      80 xs1100sg 16k miles. Kerker 4 to1 Pods with stock airbox tubes. 120 mains 45 pilots slipping clutch

                      86 Samurai soft top 16v tracker motor, 6.5 to 1 t-case gears 34" tractor tires among other stuff

                      Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, Torque is how far you take the wall with you.

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Probably considerably more than a couple of hundred pounds, but hey, each to his own. Just sayin' is all.
                        1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
                        2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

                        Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

                        "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          I finally had to have bars made to get exactly what I wanted.

                          Mike C
                          Lake Orion, Michigan
                          '78 XS1100E

                          Here I am! Where are you?

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                          • #14
                            my bars

                            those bars look great, that is what i was gonna do, but just went the easy route and just added some to my drag bars. and as far as my weilds go i know that i have great welds, i have been welding for a while, and had my friend help me that is a certified welder. and i did alot of practice welds on the scrap peices of bar that i had left over to make sure that i had good penatration before i did my actual welds on the bars.
                            Last edited by Nightengale; 04-02-2012, 04:07 PM.
                            xs1100 hartail bobber

                            http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...-38-36_563.jpg

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              Rox

                              I've used the Rox risers on mine and they were da bomb - infinite adjustability - I say get them and you won't be sorry.

                              John
                              John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

                              Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
                              '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
                              Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

                              "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

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