How was the factory paint job done?

[BillyRok]

I've got my XJ completely torn down for clean up and repainting, like many before me. There are lots of threads here about what others have done, i.e. method and material. I'm curious as to how Yamaha painted these bikes when they made them. At 30+ years old, most bikes I've seen still look decent as far as the frame and swing arm as long as they weren't left outside in the elements. Some advocate powder coating the frame, swing arm, and battery tray...what could you expect to pay if you farm the whole job out? (Guessing most can't do the job themselves.) Wondering what the factory method was and what the cost would be to copy the factory method since it seems pretty durable. After taking the time to tear my bike down, I don't want to do a half a$$ job painting it only to be disappointed 2 years from now. But I also don't want to have to hide the receipts from my wife and then make it up to her on her birthday. We're back to another cost-benefit analysis I guess, interested in what you all know and think.

[Lonerider62]

Let me get started by saying that unless you have an exceptional prize on your hands, having someone professionally strip, blast, repaint, then rebuild your bike will cost far more than you'll ever get back out of it. That said, of course from the factory they obviously started out with new steel and welded, cleaned and painted the frame and other parts then put everything together on an assembly line, all in exactly the right order to make it as fast and economical as possible. It is possible to completely dismantle the entire bike, have the frame blasted (with whatever media you have at hand or can afford) and then repaint. It is possible to do a decent job with rattle cans if you don't have praying equipment. Then many inspect all bearings and replace or adjust as needed. I just repainted my tank and side covers with a Rustoleum product and did a pretty good job if I do say so myself so you don't have to think that only a body shop or professional can do a good job. Wiring and the electronics can be a problem but if the bike is already working pretty well, simply checking, cleaning and fixing the obvious problems will help make the bike a lot more reliable. The carbs can also be a headache but there is more than eough info on here to do a good carb teardown, cleanup and rebuild. After all those items are taken care of, you'll have several hundred hours into the project but a pretty good looking and reliable ride on your hands.

[crazy steve]

Everyone will have a opinion on this, but from personal observation a spray-can paint job just won't be as durable as the OEM paint was. To duplicate the original paint on the tank and sidecovers won't be cheap as Yamaha didn't furnish any paint codes so you'll have to have it custom-mixed. If you don't mind a color change to an off-the-shelf single-stage color, it can be done DIY for under $100. For a pro job, I would expect $400 and up, depending on how much work needs to be done and whether you use 'standard' paint, single-stage or base/clear, etc. For the paint on the frame, etc, Yamaha used a very tough paint, I suspect some sort of epoxy. Not easily found and probably more than a little toxic when sprayed. Likely not something you would want to do at home. And I suspect it would be just as costly as powder coating.

Powder coating..... I love powder coat. For non-bodywork parts, my first choice. It's nearly bulletproof and impervious to most chemicals. Not a good choice IMO for tanks, fenders, etc (you can't coat any plastic parts as the cure heat will melt them) as it will 'micro scratch' easily, but for any frame/suspension/brake parts it's great. Cost? That can vary widely, and will depend a lot on how the parts need to be prepped. I had a frame done recently for $125, but it was delivered with no masking needed, fully ready to blast and coat. If you leave that up to the coater, expect the price to go up quickly. The actual cost of the powder is low, it's the labor charges that are the major expense. I've invested in the needed equipment, so all smaller bits I do at home; I can coat any bike part that will fit in a household-type oven, and can do almost every part on a bike for under $30 or less in material costs. But check prices in your area, and also check the quality the shop does; there can be big differences.

[jetmechmarty]

Powder coat is by far the most durable. If you manage to damage it, it is not so easy to fix. If you rattle can the frame, you can touch it up easily at any time. You WILL be touching it up from time to time.

I have not used it, but Eastwood coatings enjoy a good reputation. They are designed for the hobbiest, but are not cheap.

[mack]

Electro plating

I'd be willing to bet that the finish coat applied by yamaha was electro plated same as the rest of the auto industry. When I did Hermes I had the parts all bead blasted, epoxy prep coat, automotive paint (2 coats) then 3 clear coats for $800 canadian

[WSL91]

I've got my XJ completely torn down for clean up and repainting, like many before me. There are lots of threads here about what others have done, i.e. method and material. I'm curious as to how Yamaha painted these bikes when they made them. At 30+ years old, most bikes I've seen still look decent as far as the frame and swing arm as long as they weren't left outside in the elements. Some advocate powder coating the frame, swing arm, and battery tray...what could you expect to pay if you farm the whole job out? (Guessing most can't do the job themselves.) Wondering what the factory method was and what the cost would be to copy the factory method since it seems pretty durable. After taking the time to tear my bike down, I don't want to do a half a$$ job painting it only to be disappointed 2 years from now. But I also don't want to have to hide the receipts from my wife and then make it up to her on her birthday. We're back to another cost-benefit analysis I guess, interested in what you all know and think.

My guess based on the year that the bikes were painted with Acryllic enamel. There are far better products available now. Most rattle can paints are Alkyd enamel and without hardener you will not have a real durable finish. Alkyd paint without hardener is affected by gas/oil. I've painted many tractors and this is the choice of barn painters as it's cheap and readily available. Spraying it you can add hardeners which helps considerably however still not as hard as the original acrylic enamel and it fades with sun exposure. Looking at the frames they were likely chem cleaned and painted without primer and when you hit the frame the paint comes off easily. Unless you are building a show bike Omni Acrylic Enamel would be a big step up for only about double Alkyds. I've shot a couple tractors with it and its considerably harder than Alkyd, much less affected by sun and somewhat readily available. Omni is an entry level Acrylic Enmale from PPG There are others.

[WSL91]

I've got my XJ completely torn down for clean up and repainting, like many before me. There are lots of threads here about what others have done, i.e. method and material. I'm curious as to how Yamaha painted these bikes when they made them. At 30+ years old, most bikes I've seen still look decent as far as the frame and swing arm as long as they weren't left outside in the elements. Some advocate powder coating the frame, swing arm, and battery tray...what could you expect to pay if you farm the whole job out? (Guessing most can't do the job themselves.) Wondering what the factory method was and what the cost would be to copy the factory method since it seems pretty durable. After taking the time to tear my bike down, I don't want to do a half a$$ job painting it only to be disappointed 2 years from now. But I also don't want to have to hide the receipts from my wife and then make it up to her on her birthday. We're back to another cost-benefit analysis I guess, interested in what you all know and think.

Look at the link in my signature and go the the paint link there, more generic paint info. I'm familiar with powder coat as I saw it used frequently with heavy truck rim refinishing. There are some home kits out there now that allow home owners to power coat in the oven and even Harbor Freight sells some. I know of one tractor guy that power coats using a radiant heater of some type and is able to do larger areas but with all the nooks and crannies in a frame I'd rather see it go in a real power coat oven. P/C is a better choice from an enviromental standpoint as there is little waste or emissions. Paint regulations have all but shut down the small painter in many areas.

[Geezer]

I wouldn't bet my life on it but I'm almost sure I've seen pix of bike frames being dip painted at a Japanese bike factory.

If I were redoing a frame, I would have it powder coated. With all the work to make the frame look good, you want a coating that will last...

Geezer

[fredintoon]

- - - I'm curious as to how Yamaha painted these bikes when they made them. - - - Wondering what the factory method was and what the cost would be to copy the factory method since it seems pretty durable. - - -

Hi Billy,
I have no idea what they did but I'd bet it involved all manner of very expensive ovens and equipment to cut down on time and labor.
Not something you'd do for a one-off.

[TomB]

I bought A powdercoating kit and did the powder coating myself, frame, engine covers, triple trees, stands, swing arm, battery tray, master cylinders, calipers, both wheels, mudguards, clutch + brake levers ....well everything

Click

They're sold in the US for half the price, do a search.

Heres my frame, it was heated in a makeshift plywood box I made and used paint stripping electric heat guns poked through two holes cut in the side of the box to heat.

[79XS11F]

For just a little more then the cost of having a shop do a pro job for you, you can buy a gravity feed spray gun, suitable oil less compressor and paint. The gravity feed guns do not make use of high pressure or high flow rates. If you take your time you can get very good results and have the equipment to keep for all kinds of other jobs.
Rob