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how do you take off the stator wheel?

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  • how do you take off the stator wheel?

    Hi guys im trying to take off the stator wheel behind the right crank cover ive tryed a pully but no luck thanks guys
    80sg (currently getting motor swap)

  • #2
    Get a bigger hammer!

    Seriously, you need a stout crankshaft pulley removal tool, the kind with a large bolt that you can tighten and then whack with a hammer to pop the pulley loose, it's a tapered fit and 30 years worth!!!

    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

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    • #3
      Originally posted by NathanP View Post
      Hi guys im trying to take off the stator wheel behind the right crank cover ive tryed a pully but no luck thanks guys
      The three screws on the outside of the cover have to come out. The stator fits down over some machined bosses, and can be on tight. If you cock the windings trying to get it off, you are screwed. Best way is to get some help, and while one person holds the windings, the other person takes a wooden dowel, and starts tapping the inside of the cover, going around the inside circumfrence of the coils. Same principle as driving a bearing race.
      It can be done by one person, but it is tricky. CZ

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      • #4
        All you need is a bolt that will properly fit the threaded end. I forget the pitch and size. Tighten the bolt and if it does not move under the pressure from the bolt, then give it a whack with the hammer. I bought the bolt I used from a John deer dealer. It is something like a 16mm by 1.25 pitch but let others who have better memory answer before bolting out and getting one.
        2-79 XS1100 SF
        2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
        80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
        Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

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        • #5
          Flywheel Puller #35-0091. It's a 16mm x 1.5 thread. Find one here...

          http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yamaha/xs1100/?filters[category]=tools
          When the horse is dead, dismount.

          Bagapotomus - '80G Attempted Rescue, '78 Engine, Vetter Bags and Trunk.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by NathanP View Post
            Hi guys im trying to take off the stator wheel behind the right crank cover ive tryed a pully but no luck thanks guys
            Are you referring to the large circular metal lump that is on the end of the crankshaft? Or the circular wired bit that's inside the engine casing?

            You've had answers for both....
            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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            • #7
              Yeah, that's my question also James. It's hard to know exactly whats being asked when the question is about the "stator wheel".
              We all know what the Stator is but using the word "wheel" makes me think he's talking about the rotor, in which case TC's first comment applies. "Get a bigger Hammer", and we'll talk about plagiarism later
              1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
              2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

              Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

              "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

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              • #8
                Assuming you're talking about the rotor, you don't need any fancy "puller" or anything like that. Just a single bolt and a hammer. The bolt can be hard to locate, since it's not a commonly stocked size. I got mine at Fastenal. Like Barnfresh said, it's a 16mm X 1.5, right about 2-3 inches long should be fine.

                This is what it looks like once the rotor is removed, to give you an idea of the shaft that it is mounted to:

                1980 XS850SG - Sold
                1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                -H. Ford

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by b.walker5 View Post
                  Yeah, that's my question also James. It's hard to know exactly whats being asked when the question is about the "stator wheel".
                  We all know what the Stator is but using the word "wheel" makes me think he's talking about the rotor, in which case TC's first comment applies. "Get a bigger Hammer", and we'll talk about plagiarism later
                  Hummm,
                  When I answered, I assumed that stator meant "stationary" and wheel described the shape.
                  Now we are back to language skills, or not, on this site.
                  I'll take back my response and let the rest of you thrash it out. CZ

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                  • #10
                    sorry guys when i posted this i did it with my phone (my phone is junk) what i was talking about was that steel wheel that is attached to the crank itself ive used two diffrent 3 jaw pullers and bend them both thanks for all the tips guys im going to try them today
                    80sg (currently getting motor swap)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by TopCatGr58 View Post
                      Get a bigger hammer!

                      Seriously, you need a stout crankshaft pulley removal tool, the kind with a large bolt that you can tighten and then whack with a hammer to pop the pulley loose, it's a tapered fit and 30 years worth!!!

                      T.C.
                      now with the BIG hammer where on the wheel am i tapping
                      80sg (currently getting motor swap)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by NathanP View Post
                        now with the BIG hammer where on the wheel am i tapping
                        Don't tap the wheel (rotor)! You hit the head of the bolt, after it's threaded all the way down into the center of the rotor, pressed up against the face of the shaft. Tighten it down hard, then smack the bolt, repeating until it pops off. Oiling the bolt threads and heating the rotor itself may assist in the process.
                        1980 XS850SG - Sold
                        1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                        Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                        Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                        Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                        -H. Ford

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by CatatonicBug View Post
                          Don't tap the wheel (rotor)! You hit the head of the bolt, after it's threaded all the way down into the center of the rotor, pressed up against the face of the shaft. Tighten it down hard, then smack the bolt, repeating until it pops off. Oiling the bolt threads and heating the rotor itself may assist in the process.
                          ok thanks very much im going to try that this afternoon
                          80sg (currently getting motor swap)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The proper way to remove the rotor is with the 16X1.5 bolt. Thread it in and tighten while holding the rotor from spinning with a screwdriver thru it and it will pop right off. I myself wouldn't want to be wacking the $h!t out of the crankshaft with a BFH, but that is just me. One fella not to long ago said he got the correct bolt at Ace Hardware, but a bolt supplier will have it for sure.
                            2H7 (79) owned since '89
                            3H3 owned since '06

                            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
                              The proper way to remove the rotor is with the 16X1.5 bolt. Thread it in and tighten while holding the rotor from spinning with a screwdriver thru it and it will pop right off. I myself wouldn't want to be wacking the $h!t out of the crankshaft with a BFH, but that is just me. One fella not to long ago said he got the correct bolt at Ace Hardware, but a bolt supplier will have it for sure.
                              You're probably right. In fact, now that I think about it, I think I used an impact on mine... It hit fast enough that the engine held still.
                              1980 XS850SG - Sold
                              1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                              Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                              Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                              Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                              -H. Ford

                              Comment

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