barnett clutch install

[lee_dutcher]

gos some of my clutch in today (the springs) now im waiting on th friction plates....heres how far i got....







now im at a stand still.. what size nut is that thing 26mm??? and where can i find a new lock washer po seemed to umm destroy this one

[BigRed]

Hi, Lee.

I'm not sure what size that nut is, but Mike's XS sells the folding lock washers... anyone know if they're the right size for our bikes?

Where did you get your clutch kit from? I put in the heavy duty EBC springs, but they only solved my slip for about a month. I'll be going in there soon to take it apart and clean/rough up the friction plates. If that doesn't work, I'll be getting some Barnett parts too.

[DGXSER]

IIRC that is a 27 MM nut. It is also held on wiht 51 ft lbs of torque. As directed by Biker Phil some time ago, I like to use the rear brake to hold the wheel still when loosening and tightening if the bike is on the centerstand.

Hard to see in the picture but the lock washer is just that, it locks the nut from turning. It is supposed to get bent up along the edge of the nut to keep it from turning.

[lee_dutcher]

on side is bent up other side is too beat up to fix....

[DGXSER]

Really, as long as one side will bend up to hold the nut still, I would reuse it. It is serving its purpose. JMHO.

[lee_dutcher]

o

Ok ill reuse it....anything to save a buck or two. So 27 mm is a the size huh...ok ill have to go get that tomorrow aling with an impact driver

[TopCatGr58]

Hi, Lee.

I'm not sure what size that nut is, but Mike's XS sells the folding lock washers... anyone know if they're the right size for our bikes?

Where did you get your clutch kit from? I put in the heavy duty EBC springs, but they only solved my slip for about a month. I'll be going in there soon to take it apart and clean/rough up the friction plates. If that doesn't work, I'll be getting some Barnett parts too.

Hey Red,

You don't want to "rough up" the frictions, just check to make sure that they aren't GLAZED, then if they are, rough them up a little, also clean up your steels with fine emory cloth again to remove varnish/glaze.

If you want to save a few bucks, you can put washers UNDER The EBC springs against the basket, this will help stiffen them back up a bit, similar to putting in an extra steel, but if you can spare ~$20.00 get a set of Barnett springs, you probably will not need new frictions. But did you spec/measure them when you had it apart to put in the EBC springs??

Also, hate to ask, but what type of oil are you using, Synth has been known to aggravate a weak clutch and let them slip easier/sooner.

Hey Lee, have you seen the pictorial guide for the extra steel plate, not necessarily advocating the extra steel for you, but the size of that nut and other info for re-assembling is in there, need to be VERY CAREFUL when putting the Star Plate back on, the edges can get caught on the pressure plate posts incorrectly, and cause the point to break off!

T.C.

[DGXSER]

IF you have a 1/2" drive ratchet, you would not need an impact driver. You will want a torque wrench. I believe it is 27 mm but not 1000% sure. I have taken that nut off with a 1/2" ratchet before, I might have slipped my stainless steel pipe (about a 18" piece of 1" SS pipe) over the end for some added leverage.

Like I said, I put one foot on the rear brake with the bike on the centerstand. I have done the same with it on the side stand. If you put the bike on the side stand, you can pull the clutch cover without draining the oil.

[BA80]

Ok ill reuse it....anything to save a buck or two. So 27 mm is a the size huh...ok ill have to go get that tomorrow aling with an impact driver

Just take that washer and flatten it back out with a hammer when you get it off.

To take the nut off (with the proper socket) I just put the bike in gear and stick a piece of 2x4 in the spokes so it rests on the swing arm and use a 1/2 drive rachet or breaker bar and socket.

[lee_dutcher]

@tc- i do have the barnett spring. Also have a set of fibers as wrll. But will not be here soo because i orderd from parts n more. And no i did not check the speck on the olds springs. Buy side by side the old ones are shorter and weaker compared to the barnetts. Aslo i. Using castrol 4t oil. Never had a problem with it...

[trbig]

A lot of times that I have the clutch basket apart, the motor is out of the bike, so there's no option of holding a brake or wheel. You can also hold the clutch basket by inserting a screwdriver here into the slot provided by the case.














There's a gear on the back of the clutch basket that drives this gear, so holding it holds the clutch basket still.

So.. just another option of how to hold the basket stationary for torquing that nut.

BigRed... All you'll need is Barnett Springs if you're going back in to that clutch. I'm willing to bet that they'll make a clutch, with even out of spec discs, hook up solid as a rock. Yup, they're that good.

[BA80]

BigRed... All you'll need is Barnett Springs if you're going back in to that clutch. I'm willing to bet that they'll make a clutch, with even out of spec discs, hook up solid as a rock. Yup, they're that good.

+1....and use the correct oil.

[BigRed]

Thanks, guys, I'll order the springs. I use 20w 50 mineral oil, but I suspect a PO used something "better" because the starter clutch slips occasionally as well. I'm going to run a can of Sea Foam through the crank case for a 15 minutes or so before I drop the oil... hopefully that will help a bit.

[81xsproject]

To hold the basket while tightening/loosening the big nut, I put it in 5th and stick a splitting maul handle through the rear spokes so that it pushes against the swing arm. I will usually do this while holding the rear brake. Makes everything nice and solid and not even the wheel paint gets damaged.

[lee_dutcher]

Fibers came in today....let the install begin..