No power to fuses

[Irondog]

Appreciate the help. I finally got the bike running....lights working....
Now....more to do tomorrow. The right two cylinders aren't firing. More fun.

[DGXSER]

That would probably be petcock or kinked fuel line.

[Irondog]

I've been leaning towards a fuel issue, too. The lines look good and are new. I took the petcocks apart and cleaned them.....they look good, also. I then took the air box off.....No air filter was there. (My nephew bought this as-is and finding several issues with it.) Anyway, there was fuel in the bottom of the air box. After searching here for possible causes, I see that improperly set floats and sticky needle valves could possibly be the culprit. I'm not a carb guy, especially with 4 of them. My nephew says he was told by the guy he bought it from that it had....Dyno?...carbs. I/He doesn't know for sure. At any rate, any ideas on how much it costs for a shop to set these up properly? I'm at a loss. My Harley was a lot easier to fix. ....or maybe I was simply more used to wrenching on it.

[DGXSER]

These carbs are relatively simple. taking them to a shop typically leads to a $300 bill if not more and your carbs just as screwed up, because most of the techs have no clue what carbs are, or how to work on these.

The culprit on your leaking fuel is going to be the float needle valve. May be worn out, may just be junk in there. Even improperly set float heights should not cause fuel overflow, just really poor running. First step is to remove the carbs form the bike, now, this is a little tricky with the factory air box, but not really hard. Pull the bottom off the air box, remove three bolts securing it, loosen the clamps on the intake boots from the air box at teh carbs. Now slide the air box back. I take small screw drive and put it in the hole of the air box center mount with the airbox bracket behind it to hold the air box back. (that makes more sense when you see the air box and how it is attached.)

Disconnect the throttle cable and pull it up out of the way. Pull the vacuum hose from the "OCTY" fuel valve if it is still there over no 2 carb. Pull the vac advance vacuum hose off no 2 carb. Get the clutch cable out of the clip that guides it on no 4 carb.

Now loosen the clamps on the intake boots that the carbs mount on. Now here is where it gets tricky, there is not alot of room between the intake boots and the air box boots to get the carbs out of. As you pull the carbs back out of the intake boots, I like to tip the back of the carbs up. It will be a bit of a PITA to get them past the air box boots. But it does work. Once you have them above the intake and air box boots, slide them out to the side, I prefer the left side, and you will have to fiddle a bit to get the throttle lever past the valve cover where the timing chain galley sticks out and the throttle cable clip on it.

There is a thread on here titled "Carb Cleaning 101". Do a search for it. That thread has alot of good info and pics on disassmebly and cleaning of these carbs. The only things you need to adjust will be carb float height (which may be correct already) and then tuning the carbs when it runs. May not need any new parts.

[DGXSER]

I forgot, the Dyno comment may mean they installed "Dynojet" kits. I have never used them so not sure what all is involved in those.

[Irondog]

Thanks a lot for the info....I'm going to pull the carb today and look it over. I think before I actually tear it apart, I'm going to wait until I have a rebuild kit in hand. That way....everything should still be fresh in mind for putting it back together. Thanks again.

[Irondog]

Well now, don't I feel dumb. Before I pulled the carbs to rebuild them, I got to looking at the petcocks. I had them at what I thought was the "ON" position. I turned them to what looks like "PRIM" or something. I couldn't really read it...but whatever it said...it what it really meant was "REALLY ON". Who would have thunk it? LOL Now it runs like a striped-reared ape. I mean this thing really runs good.
Anyway, thanks a lot for all the help. I'm sure I'll be looking for more help and if I'm able to give any....I sure will.
Thanks a lot.

[DGXSER]

No problem. The petcocks are a little tricky in that the handle itself points to the position it is in.

ON is well, On. When in the On position the vacuum valve controls flow of fuel to the carbs. Reserve works the same, through the vacuum valve, but drains the last bit in the tank so you can get to the station and avoid pushing this fat heavy beast. Prim is Prime position, its intended use is to ..well..Prime the carbs when they have been drained, or worked on, or perhaps sat for a bit. It also bypasses the vacuum valve.

So if you find it runs like guano in the ON and or Reserve postion, but runs great in the Prime position, then you have a vacuum valve issue to deal with. I forget if this is a Standard or a Special. On the Specials, the vacuum valve can be eliminated, on the Standard, not so easy to do.

[Irondog]

This is the special. I'll have to look into the how and why of the vacuum.
Thanks again.