Oil filter drain.

[John]

I was installing a new Jardine 4-2 header yesterday, and the lines to the oil cooler were hitting the new pipes. I didn't have enough hose to reroute them, so I just figured I'd eliminate the cooler for now. Well, as we all know, the oil will come pouring out of the cup as soon as you get it loose. What a mess, and hard to clean up. I had a couple of filter cups laying around, so I took one to work and drilled and tapped a 1/8 pipe thread in it, behind the mounting bolt. There is a lot of meat in the cup. Got some good threads cut. Anyway, I haven't decided if I should use a plug, or a small ball valve for the drain. My only concern about the ball valve is that I would hate like hell if it should vibrate open while I'm riding. On the other hand, it takes a good bit of effort to open the valve, so it shouldn't open itself. I'm not worried about clearance, because the valve is less than 1 1/2 inches long, and it doesn't hang as low as the exhaust pipes. It's going on today, and I'll report back in a few days.
Anybody else ever try this? What were your results?

[Dragonrider]

I'd use the plug...Save hitting a piece of tire tread or something and busting off the valve.

[skids]

Originally posted by Dragonrider
I'd use the plug...Save hitting a piece of tire tread or something and busting off the valve.

Ditto. Maybe you can find one that has a flange like the drain plugs and install a nylon washer to keep it from leaking. I suppose teflon tape would work as an alternative with a reguar plug.

[nashville_bill]

John,

Sounds like a great idea. Please post pics and specs.

[Hobbit]

drain

Fram filters make a drain plug with a valve and safety cap. It comes with a hose that opens the valve and directs the oil where you want it to go. I've installed two so far (on cages) and they work real well and they're not real exspensive. They come in several sizes for most auto applications. Maybe one of those would work.

[John]

Results

I went with the ball valve set up. What I did was use a die grider and cut down the cooling fin in the center of the cup, right behind the mounting bolt. I ground it flush with the body of the cup, all the way to the back of the cup. I used some teflon tape on the threads to prevent leaks. I ran it in my drive way for a while to check for leaks, as the cup is under pressure. Clean and dry. Rode to work today, 16 miles. Clean and dry, and the lever on the valve didn't move. Rode home, 16 more miles, clean and dry. Success!
We use drain hoses and caps on our aircraft push out tractors, and most diesel powered equipment at work, (American Airlines, DFW airport) and it works well, but I don't know how that application would work on a bike. The hose could be secured to the frame rail for ease of access, but that might make it difficult to remove the cup. The reason we use it at work, is because it is difficult to reach the oil drain plug when you're on a creeper, and the drain plug is about three feet above you, and right over the rear axle.
I don't have any way of posting a pic, but it is a very simple, straight forward job. The only tools you need are a die grinder, or some way to cut down the cooling fin on the cup, and a 1/8 pipe tap, and some thread tape or pipe dope. The Jardine pipes allow better access to the filter cup than the OEM pipes do. This way you can be draining the filter cup at the same time you are draining the crankcase. Should save a bunch of time, and a bunch of clean up.

[wildbill]

Re: oil lines to oil cooler

That sounds like a nice setup.On the oil lines,could you have pulled them togather and then fastened them with 2 or 3 zip ties to keep them from hitting your pipes.That is the way they are fixed on my bike. Take care

[John]

Oil cooler lines

The lines are 1/2 inch cloth braid, not very flexible anymore, and need to be replaced anyway. They are over 10 years old, and the cooler was one I robbed from an 80 XS850. It was held on with tie raps. I have another one that was on Organ Donor, and it has a much nicer mountig bracket that bolts to the 10 MM threaded holes near the top of the down tubes. That one will be going on when the weather gets warmer, and I really need it.