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  • rubber bits recondition

    Does anyone know how to recondition rubber? I've noticed many rubber retaining straps on my elect. harness are cracking and I want to make them limber and supple again. I searched the threads and could not find anything.
    "Galaxy" 1982 XJ1100J, 1983 XV handlebars, new fusebox, homemade SS wind screen and SS muffler heat shields, homemade grab bar extension and luggage rack. XS750 140 mph speedo, '81 Venture oil cooler, V-Max ACCT, Yahman YICS Eliminator, 1st and 2nd gear Dremel fix.

  • #2
    The best thing is to replace them and keep them out of the sun. You can soak those parts in mineral oil (baby oil), and it will probably work as well as anything.

    Here's an old thread full of our opinions:
    http://www.xs11.com/forum/archive/in...p?t-35169.html
    Marty (in Mississippi)
    XS1100SG
    XS650SK
    XS650SH
    XS650G
    XS6502F
    XS650E

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by XJkid View Post
      Does anyone know how to recondition rubber? I've noticed many rubber retaining straps on my elect. harness are cracking and I want to make them limber and supple again. I searched the threads and could not find anything.
      I doubt that there's any chance of bringing it back, its a deterioration thing. That said the best one could hope for is to slow the decay. I was in the tire industry for 24 years and there were as many people for Armor All type products as there were against. Each camp could quote facts supporting their side. I'd be interested too so see if anyone has any tips. Sunlight is defiantly 1 enemy.
      1970? Honda Z50... gone
      1974? Yamaha 100 Enduro... gone
      1974 Honda CB200... gone
      1981 Yamaha Virago 750... gone
      1993 Honda Shadow 1100... gone
      2008 Honda VTX 1800F
      1982 Yamaha XJ1100J w/850 final, Raptor ACCT
      1979 Yamaha XS1100SF "Chewey" Raptor ACCT

      http://www.johnsoldiron.com

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      • #4
        Here Ya Go

        Tech Facts Volume 4 (from this site: http://www.303products.com/)
        ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION:
        Only a small portion of solar radiation consists of invisible ultraviolet (UV) light. But the light in this spectral range is responsible for photo degradation. Photo degradation results in discoloration, fading, embrittlement, cracking, chalking and/or loss of mechanical properties. Chalking gelcoat fiberglass, yellowing plastics, fading and weakening fabrics and sunburned skin are all familiar problems caused by UV light. Before UV light can cause harm, it must first be absorbed. If it is not turned into heat or transferred to a nearby stabilizer molecule called a quencher, it breaks weak chemical bonds. This is the beginning of UV damage.

        Some materials absorb UV light more readily than other materials. Materials that readily absorb UV light are quickly damaged...rubber, vinyls, gelcoat fiberglass, and many other plastics. Acrylic is slow to absorb UV light and accordingly very resistant to photo degradation.

        UV stabilizers are a group of chemical agents with the ability to counteract or neutralize the harmful effects of UV light. Competitive absorbers provide protection by converting UV light to heat so it can dissipate harmlessly (See Vol. I). Other UV stabilizers work differently. All UV stabilizers are consumed as they do their job. In a way, they serve as sacrificial molecules, taking the abuse from the UV light instead of the material they are protecting.

        This brief overview greatly simplifies this very complex subject. Discoloring due to absorbers that have absorbility into the visible light range is a problem. And there are many others.

        Two important points: UV stabilizers have to be periodically renewed or replenished if continuing UV protection is to be achieved. Second, there is no such thing as a permanent UV stabilizer. a matter of physics, not chemistry.

        A FEW MORE FACTS. . .

        When UV light is absorbed, it starts to break (cleave) weak chemical bonds which leads to bleaching (fading), discoloration, chalking, brittleness and cracking, all indications of UV deterioration.

        The bond cleavages resulting from UV absorption cause the formation of "radicals." Each free radical can trigger a chain of reactions (in the presence of air), leading to more bond cleavages and destruction. These oxidating chain reactions require no further UV exposure, just the presence of air.

        Thus, it is important to provide UV protection with agents that use competitive absorption to convert the light wave energy into harmless heat (like carbon black does in tires - refer to Vol. I). It is equally important to protect with quenching agents that have radical scavenging ability.

        Summary: No matter what it's called UV protection, UV screening, sunblock - to provide true UV protection in a maintenance product form, it is necessary to utilize effective, active chemical agents called UV stabilizers.



        Untreated rubber, vinyl and other plastics readily absorb, and are degraded by, UV light. The best UV protection money can buy. 303 restores, beautifies and lasts longer. Guaranteed!


        --------------------------------------------------------------------------------







        I've been using 303 protectant for the last 5 years on my tires, seats, plastic parts and anything that UV rays degrade.

        The Armour All , No Touch and most of the like products contain chemicals that not only harm equipment but also the environment.

        The 303 protectant isn't slippery and "wet" like the other products.
        I've also used their fabric gaurd with stellar results. YMWV
        1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
        1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
        1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
        1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
        1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

        Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

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        • #5
          Napa Body-Pro 3103 here in Canada anyways works well. I have also used Plasti-dip and dipped the parts in it a few times and built it up. That works great for rubber mounts for flashers etc.
          2-79 XS1100 SF
          2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
          80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
          Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

          Comment


          • #6
            I agree, any product with sunscreen in them will do the trick. I have a '83 XS650, and most all of the rubber and plastic bits look great. The clocks still have their bright red markings. It's because I've always kept the bike indoors. When I rode it to work, school, etc., I always parked it with a cover over it. I've used products like Armor-All, but shade is the real reason the bike looks so good, even in its well used condition.

            Armor-All and the like will temporarily restore the appearance of deteriorating plastic, vinyl, and rubber parts. It will look fine as long as you keep applying it. Most of that stuff has sunscreen in it as well. I like a cover, and I wear a hat.
            Marty (in Mississippi)
            XS1100SG
            XS650SK
            XS650SH
            XS650G
            XS6502F
            XS650E

            Comment


            • #7
              rubber bits reconditioner

              This may sound off the wall, but I've had good luck soaking parts in PB Blaster.
              I happened to notice the recommendation on the label, and gave it a shot. You have to soak the parts overnight in a sealed container, but it brings back some of the suppleness. Don't expect miracles for these sun bleached parts, but this is a cheap fix-for a while.

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