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And yes, stalling at a light and having to fiddle with keys or other objects to stick in the hole to start the bike after a light changes is certainly not a situation I want to find myself in.
One other problem is that if the return spring for the button is still in the hole, and after you pull out your preferred instrument, the spring still makes contact with the required metal parts, the starter stays engaged, leading to strange noises, capable of being heard above the exhast note of original mufflers, (not sure of open pipes or gutted mufflers), and rendering the kill switch inoperative, which in turn can lead to expensive damage to starters and/or sprag clutch parts. DAMHIK. (Which reads Damn Hick, and describes the person who would use a pointy metal object as a starter button in the first place. )
Live and learn, eh? CZ
I replaced my button (after the original was stuck in the on position) with a radio shack button. Works like a charm every time. Im not a purist. Im a utilitarian when it comes to my bike.
79 Special
2012 FJR1300
78 E (project. Clutch problems from PO) Must sell
DAMHIK. (Which reads Damn Hick, and describes the person who would use a pointy metal object as a starter button in the first place. )
Live and learn, eh? CZ
So far I have managed to avoid shorting anything between the 'live' metal buttons and ground when the ignition switch is on but I'm sure I'll manage to do it sooner or later... I don't care.
I like the brass buttons a lot more than the plastic buttons!
-- Scott
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♬
2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
1979 XS1100F: parts
2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.
♬
They came in the mail yesterday, well made, look very nice. Hell, he wrapped them as if you were in the Philipines and ready to do one of those shebois..
Seriously, they're very well made and shipped in a timely manner.
Been using a metal pin to get the bike started until now. Will be insatalling them on Saturday.
Hey 3Phase,
Thanks for all the info. I'll make sure I don't touch that button with any sensitive body parts. I don't always turn ny key to the lock position but I think that will be a new habot to get used to. It rains a lot here in FL.
I wonder if a light coating of Liquid Electrical Tape will make a difference?
Well, I'll chime in on SAt after the damage is done.
1980G Standard, Restored
Kerker 4 - 1
850 Rear End Mod
2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
Automatic CCT 1980GH Special, Restored
Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.
Phil,
I thoiught abut it and may do it someday, but for now I just want to be able to start it w/out having to stick a strange object in there and see little sparks flying around....!!!!
BTW - I just installed the alum button. Only discrepancy I found was that the hole in the controls case where the button comes through was too small. I had to use a round rat-tail file and take a little material off, not too much.
Re-assembled the switch, tested it before assembly, put all back together and VVVRRROOOOOOOMMMMM!!!!
Love it when a plan comes together. Thanks for all your help folks !!!!
Now to tackle my second project of the day, should have been my first but you know.....
The shift lever on my '02 Explorer broke off on Monday morning as I arrived at work... Found out in the explorer forum that this is an endemic problem for all 2001 to 2004 Explorers.
After much research and the looming possibility of having to shell out $1,200.00 (I don't have) to a dealer to replace the steering column, Ford's answer to this problem, I found an aftermarket replacement part. $40.00 delivered to my door. Will need a little tweaking here and there, according to those who've done it.
So, if any of you have these model year Explorers and run into this problem, give a shout and I'll send you the link. The place is called Rock Auto and it's in the hometown of my alma mater -- Madison, Wisconsin.
I highjacked my own thread.....
If there's enough interest I'll start another thread in the General topics section.
1980G Standard, Restored
Kerker 4 - 1
850 Rear End Mod
2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
Automatic CCT 1980GH Special, Restored
Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.
Shift lever fixed.. thanks to the Explorer forum and the good folks there, but that's another story.
I installed the starter button, and as I said, I had to ream out the hole in the housing, and all was well. It worked, and I was happy. Next week I got another letter from the supplier, no explanation, but the butons were a bit smaller.... don't know if he follows our forum but found it to be kind of funky since the buttons were a bit smaller and probably a perfect fit.... Thanks for following up.
Regardless... NO ELECTRICAL SHOCKS from a metal starter button !!!!
1980G Standard, Restored
Kerker 4 - 1
850 Rear End Mod
2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
Automatic CCT 1980GH Special, Restored
Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.
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