Rear Shocks

[Rasputin]

On more than one occasion I have swapped shocks between my bikes. Now I have learnt that before I use any shock off another bike, to take the spring off and check the shock itself. Sometimes a shock can appear to look fine showing no leaks etc. But the only way to see if the shock itself is good is to remove the spring to see if it still has proper resistance.
Buying used shocks is pretty much like buying a pig in a poke. While some will certainly be good for resale, others will simply be other people's junk. A lot of ebay type sellers will clean and wipe up everything you see, then tell you the bike they came off of was brand new with only 2000 miles on it. Once it gets to you, it is yours (even though the shocks came off a 100,000 mile bike). The whole no return policy some mandate.
Myself, I now buy new every time. Yes the 400 buck progressives are expensive and for my liking sprung a bit too hard, but I know I have a quality shock under me. I have also bought the 100 dollar shocks from PNM and they seem to do a fine job. Used shocks will not be appearing at any time on any of my rides unless I personally know the seller.
There are many sellers of shocks in all price ranges. One can simply change the springs to get original ride spring rate if their springs are in good enough shape. Other sellers have rebuildable shocks. Again a bit more expensive but you have the option of new or rebuilding.
As to the original posters question about the MikesXS shocks. The bike will visibly sag under its own weight with those shocks unless you change to your factory springs. The Factory springs will fit the shocks and can be swapped. Rooster here on our forum has bought them and that is what he had to do.
If a really good set of Showa or other shocks were available and proved to be in working order I can not see where it would be a detriment at all.

[jetmechmarty]

A lot of this depends upon how you ride. Unserviceable (worn out) shocks are NEVER OK. At a minimun, the shocks have to keep you rear tire in contact with the pavement. That's what they're there for. If you like to ride "sporty" cheap shocks aren't going to get it. Also, proper spring rates are required to keep you from dragging the hard parts.

Good shocks are very expensive and easily cost over $1,000.00! We all know we aren't going to put fifteen hundred dollar shocks on a fifteen hundred dollar motorcycle. I know I'm not! There are economical options available. YSS and Bitubo offer more reasonably priced quality shocks and there's Progressive and Hagon as well.

If you really need to go cheap, I don't see a problem with take-offs. Personally, I would want to break them down and ensure the dampening still functions before I mount them on my bike.

Just another opinion to ponder.

[Bonz]

Yes, the main point here is to be sure you know what you are putting on your bike is a good serviceable part, that will perform as intended.

Just like putting on another FD unit if yours takes a dump, or another brake rotor, since none of these parts are new, you have to be smart about it, otherwise you probably won't make it far enough to make the round trip back to the house to post about it!

[b.walker5]

Howard, I guess the difference in your tyre analogy is that you can see how much tread is left before you swap them over, and an FD can be pulled apart and checked out. Not so easy with shocks, unless they're rebuildables.

Second hand parts definately have thier place, in fact without them many of us wouldn't have working bikes, I just think that using them in some instances is playing with fire.

And Marty, I have YSS on my XJR as the original Ohlins leaked (and I havent got round to rebuilding them) and find them pretty good.

[TopCatGr58]

Bucking bronco ride!

I got my '81SH bike essentially NEW in '83, had just been fired up on a Navy base in Japan every month and ridden around the yard to keep it from rotting, so it had 17 miles on it. I brought it back from Japan and rode it for 9 years in the states before the tranny crapped out. I even had to break it in! So I used the Manual recommended break in procedure, and so I didn't really get into the throttle until after 500 or so miles.

I can still clearly remember the first time I got on the throttle, and felt the rear end rise up with every thrust when running thru the lower gears!

The OEM shocks did not have Extension dampening, only compression dampening, and so with brand new OEM shocks, you still had the bucking bronco type ride affect of the shaft drive propulsion system!

My bike sat for 9+ years with the dead tranny until my Dad passed, which got me to realize life's too short, had gotten into a new house with a garage, gotten our financial situation better, and I had found the internet and the XS11 yahoo group, had learned about the 2nd gear malady and relatively easy fix, but the bike had corroded outside, had to tear it down, rebuilt top end with a little big bore kit, etc.! After having to put $$$ into the engine, I was looking for replacement parts that wouldn't break the bank!

I found the inexpensive Monza style shocks on Partsnmore site, and they were listed as being for an XS11, I had not seen MikesXS or the 650 site, and so I didn't know or think anything about them other than how they performed.

The first time I rode my rebuilt bike, again after a modest top end break in period, I got on the throttle very vigorously and was pleasantly surprised that it DIDN'T do the bucking bronco seat rise that I had experienced and become accustomed to the previous 20 years! I am 220 lbs, only 6'6" vs. Howards 6'11" , and I did ride 2 up on occasion, but mostly just me. Yes, even with the highest preload setting they would bottom out on a very prominent bump, but never with me alone. I also would ride with saddlebags and trunk loaded with tools and oil and such, and they still performed adequately, even in the Twisties...just ask Marty and the other XSEast folks I have ridden with over the years.

I still have these "Cheap" shocks on the bike, and they still work as designed, so for a person trying to resurrect a worn out XS11 and just wanting to get it back on the road in a fairly safe configuration, I have no problem with suggesting the cheap shocks as a FIRST shock to save build $$ and get it on the road. THEN, if you develop a more aggresive riding style, or ride 2 up a lot, then you can research and invest in a better upgrade, and you can then have a better idea of the $ budget you'll need or want to spend. YMMV!

T.C.

[jetmechmarty]

TC,

You're an exceptionally talented rider. I think you could ride a "Slinky" fast through the twisties. I agree those inexpensive shocks perform a function. The worst part is they're a "one size fits all" on the springs. We all have different needs in that regard. Now that I have the sag set correctly on mine, I don't think I can bottom out, and there isn't a lot of room for "shaft jacking". TC, you need to take it for a spin when I next see you. Your weight is close to mine.

[Bonz]

Great post TopCat, and good follow up JetMech. Thanks for your input as well b.walker.

My main point in all of this is the inexpensive new replacement shocks that JetMech so aptly described as "performing a function" and "one size fits all" do not perform as well, IMO, based on what I've read as a good set of higher quality shocks that have seen some use already and are tailored to a bike with similar dimesions to the XS.

For the protection you get on Ebay anymore, the chance of getting ripped off and having a wholly dishonest seller is very low, and despite not being able to take shocks apart, per se, or inspect them like other used items we put on our bike, it takes no time to mount them, and do a number of check rides on them before mounting up and heading two up around the world. If a person does not take that route, they deserve what they get.

I'll do my homework and due dilligence in terms of checking function and the like, and have a better set of shocks for my bike than by going the new route with a compromise and then having to swap springs or something like that, and still not have the good internals of the Showa's, for example.

Like it has been said, to each his own on this stuff, and look forward to lots of good and safe riding for all of us this year!