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**TADracer** · 02-15-2012, 07:23 AM

Only my opinions.

Item #1 pods - Some use them some do not. I do with good results but there will be a flat spot around 2-3K RPM that you will have to work out by jetting, timing, etc. Takes some tinkering to get it right but it can be done. This is a whole, long-drawn out subject that can go on for years. Use the search function and do a pod filter search and see what you get.

Item #2 Dent in tank - I used air to pop one out that left only a small blemish that I worked out with a body hammer. It was a large dent that was not very deep. More pushed in than dented. I blocked up the vent hole in the filler cap and attached REGULATED air to one of the fuel nipples and slowly added pressure untill it popped out. But you must be careful or you can easily open a seam or blow out a petcock. If you can get a right sized body pry bar and go in through the cap or the fuel gauge/light sender opening that would be alot more safe and reliable.

**natemoen** · 02-15-2012, 08:05 AM

Air for the dent must be very low psi, like starting down at something under 5 and working up slow as you tap around the edges of the dent with a hammer. But DO NOT exceed about 15 psi, maybe not even that high.

**dpotter58** · 02-15-2012, 08:16 AM

lots of folks using dry ice. Depending it's avalibility you may want to give it a go

**trbig** · 02-15-2012, 08:32 AM

Ice or air pressure at a force strong enough to pop out a dent will also push down and change the shape of the bottom tunnel that goes around the frame, making your tank useless.

My suggestion is to take it to a body shop. For probably next to nothing, they spot-weld rivets to the metal, then pull the dent out by pulling on the rivets with a slide hammer. Get it close, grind the rivets off and do your body work and paint.

The only problem with this method is if the tank has been lined, it will burn off a spot there. Also, the tank must be cleaned out and free from fuel vapors.

I've seen small dents like hail damage removed with dry ice, but I don't think it will cut it for something as big as what you describe.

**XJfan1** · 02-15-2012, 10:35 AM

Thanks for the info guys I will try the air thing tonight when I wake up i work third shift. The filter pod thing I mentioned was saying they were fine for the xs but not the xj I tried to look again bit I couldn't find it.I will mill it over and maybe find a stock air box. If I run the pods and the carbs are not jetted will I get a possible harmfull lean situation? Its not a big deal I'm not planning on drag racing or any land speed records. Thanks for the info.

**trbig** · 02-15-2012, 10:45 AM

It's tough to find a stock air filter element for the XJ. I've used pods since I've had the bike, have never seen a dead or flat spots at any rpm range using the stock exhaust and stock carb settings, but I did eventually go up one size on the main jet to a 115.

Before you can tune the carbs on the XJ, you'll have to have a tool to eliminate the YICS system on it.

I would caution the use of air.. but it is your tank. Enough air pressure to push the metal out, is also going to push the metal down on the whole bottom side of the tank and in the tunnel area. Just remember, if it screws it up, XJ tanks are tough to find. It's the only year and model that has them.

**jetmechmarty** · 02-15-2012, 11:28 AM

The air filters have recently appeared in stock from several sources. If you want them, they're out there.

There are "dent wizard" folks out there with tools to massage the dent out of that tank. Their prices are very reasonable. IMHO, you're asking for trouble if you pressurize the tank.

**XJkid** · 02-15-2012, 12:10 PM

Yeah, they are out there, and so is the price. $60.00?? After seeing that, I cleaned mine with solvent and replaced the gasket with weatherstrip foam. BTW, the white plastic "stacks" inside the airbox- PO had a carb fire and the two center ones are drooping down 90 degrees but are still open. Do I need to get new (used) ones?

**jetmechmarty** · 02-15-2012, 03:53 PM

XJ air filter

Originally posted by XJkid View Post

Yeah, they are out there, and so is the price. $60.00?? After seeing that, I cleaned mine with solvent and replaced the gasket with weatherstrip foam. BTW, the white plastic "stacks" inside the airbox- PO had a carb fire and the two center ones are drooping down 90 degrees but are still open. Do I need to get new (used) ones?

I found that filter three times after a brief search for about $30. Look here: XJ Air Filter $28.97 Scroll to the bottom where you can put it in the basket.

Many of the XJ airbox parts are still available. Have a look: XJ1100 intake

**XJkid** · 02-15-2012, 04:40 PM

Yeah, the $60.00 was from Yammy. They always seem to be 30% more. Thanks for the info!

**natemoen** · 02-15-2012, 05:49 PM

Originally posted by trbig View Post

I would caution the use of air.. but it is your tank. Enough air pressure to push the metal out, is also going to push the metal down on the whole bottom side of the tank and in the tunnel area. Just remember, if it screws it up, XJ tanks are tough to find. It's the only year and model that has them.

I am not disagreeing with you here Tod because that is a real possibility if you use too much air, but at the low psi that I stated it is not enough pressure to deform the tank. The air pressure is just there to create a semi-firm backing for when you are tapping with the hammer, the hammer is what is actually doing the changes to the tank metal.

Plus I think you are way more likely to blow a seam out than you are to deform the tunnel.

**skids** · 02-15-2012, 06:39 PM

Originally posted by trbig View Post

Ice or air pressure at a force strong enough to pop out a dent will also push down and change the shape of the bottom tunnel that goes around the frame, making your tank useless.

That is right! Been there, done that with air pressure! It spread the mountings outward and increased the volume of the tank more than I wanted...

**trbig** · 02-15-2012, 07:06 PM

Originally posted by skids View Post

That is right! Been there, done that with air pressure! It spread the mountings outward and increased the volume of the tank more than I wanted...

Yeah, I've heard of this happening on here before, as well as other sites. Pressure tries to make everything round and doesn't care if you just wanted it on the side of the tank.

It'll take a body shop maybe 10 minutes with those spot welded rivet things to pull that dent out pretty nicely. Or.. just bondo it and go on. If you ride wtih any other XS's, you're still going to be able to hold more fuel than they will.. lol.

**fredintoon** · 02-15-2012, 07:22 PM

Originally posted by XJfan1 View Post

my gas tank has a monster of a dent right on the emblem its a nasty one with a fat crease on the one end.id rather not use a slide hammer or cut out the dent is there any other way to pop it out so I could finish it with some body filler. I had a guy I work with tell me to take the tank off and fill it with water and put it in the freezer and keep checking on to be sure not to overdue it and expand the whole tank. The idea does kinda make sense water expands when it freezes on the other hand what would that do to the petcocks? Just a thought I guess. Thanks in advance for any replys.

Hi XJ,
you'd take the taps out first, fer chrissake? And the fuel sender too?
But anyway, that ugly dent is now the strongest part of the tank.
Internal air/water/hydraulic pressure will distort the rest of the tank into uselessness before the dent pops out. Unless a seam blows first.
The easy way out is a big can of glass fiber filled body filler left a little way below flush then topped up with lightweight filler.
The welded on studs and slidehammer trick is about the best way to go despite your reluctance to do it.
Or it may be best for you to buy another tank?

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tank dent & air filter question

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