Originally posted by crazy steve
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Brakes - What would you do?
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1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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Still working on the rear...
Rebuild the rear master cylinder, and caliper. That all went smoothly.
When I put the rear caliper back on, there seems to be a little play? I can grab it, and move it ever so slightly. Is this normal?
Bench bleed the master cylinder, filled the rear caliper with fluid, and slowly started working fluid through the line by pumping the brakes. Before I took everything apart, I could pump it a few times, hold it down, release the bleeder valve and get a nice release of fluid. Now when I repeat this process, there is fluid coming through, but the stream looks much weaker than before. I don't see leaks anywhere.
The original problem was the rear caliper would not release. That is fixed. However, now I have really weak brake pressure. I took it for a spin and can lock the rear brake fine. It's just the rear brake pedal is really soft.
I feel like it's ok, it's just different. It's also brakes, so that always worries me...
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Sounds like you still have air in there somewhere. Does the pedal 'pump up' if you depress it a few times? I use a big syringe with a short length of tube to bleed brakes. Put the tube over the bleed nipple and loosen the nipple. Suck the fluid through with the syringe. Make sure you keep the master topped up, and it should 'pull' any air out. Works in the same way as a Mityvac but a helluva lot cheaper.1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.
Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.
"A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.
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Sounds like air still in there as said by B.walker. If the problem persists you may try taking loose the caliper and hose and making the orientation to where the bleed screw is the highest point and letting it set there for a while. maybe use a bungie cord to hang it. You can put a piece of metal or plastic the thickness of the rotter inbetween the pads and operate it in that position. I have had bubbles settle into the line before and just would not pump out. Another thing is what is the wear on your brake pads. If pads are worn down you will not get the same feel as if they are like new. If you are sure that the line and the caliper are free of air and still have weak stream then the issue has to be in the master cylinder. It may after some wear clear up and warm weather will make a difference. You may want to check the adjustment of the pedel to master cylinder also because that can make a difference expecially if the master cylinder can not fill with fluid.To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.
Rodan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
1980 G Silverbird
Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
1198 Overbore kit
Grizzly 660 ACCT
Barnett Clutch Springs
R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
122.5 Main Jets
ACCT Mod
Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
Antivibe Bar ends
Rear trunk add-on
http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/
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Often on the rear there will be a air bubble where the banjo bolt is because the master has to push the fluid up and then it goes down into the hose.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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My new brake line is a tad too long, so I think I'll try removing the caliper, and getting the bleed screw at a higher point.
My rear pads were completely worn out, like down to nothing. I have new pads on there now. That would definitely contribute to the completely different feeling now. I hadn't thought about that.
The brakes do not pump up, at least not yet.
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The issue I was trying to explain about the master cylinder not filling is there is an adjustment for the plunger and the brake peddle. I have seen where the plunger was adjusted too tight into the master cylinder. What happens is if the plunger has already pushed in on the cylinder in a relaxed position of the peddle then you loose on the amount of travel and the amount of fluid you can send to the caliper. There is a writeup in the service manual maintenance section. This may account for the fact you can not get a good stream of fluid from the bleed screw.
Since you have extra hose that is more than likely where the air is but the peddle adj can make it harder to clear. Just trying to help.To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.
Rodan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
1980 G Silverbird
Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
1198 Overbore kit
Grizzly 660 ACCT
Barnett Clutch Springs
R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
122.5 Main Jets
ACCT Mod
Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
Antivibe Bar ends
Rear trunk add-on
http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/
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Thanks Ron, I checked the pedal adjustment and the rod allows the plunger to fulling disengage so I think it's ok.
After sitting over night the pedal actually firms up pretty good. I bled for a bit just to make sure, and I'm getting no air bubbles coming out. I think I'm going to call the rear done for now and move on to the fronts.Last edited by JScro; 02-29-2012, 12:48 PM.
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