Brakes - What would you do?

[JScro]

I can find a brake line kit for the front brakes fairly easily, but the rear seems to be nonexistent.

So for a 79 1100F, I'm going to order a 17" line for the rear, with two straight banjo bolts. Anyone know if this is correct? I found another post referencing this exact thing, however they mention an angled banjo bolt at the caliper. To me it appears pretty straight. Maybe I'm wrong? It's definitely all the original lines on it.

The post:
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17136

[JScro]

Rear caliper is out. Would you call this done? I think it's done.

[crazy steve]

The rust you see in the pic doesn't matter and is typical; you need to get the piston out of the caliper body to know whether or not you need a new one...

[ViperRon]

what I see is normal and has no effect on brakes the surface rust seen can be removed and causes no problem. The problem areas are underneath. Take it appart and like I think it was Steve said check for pits there.

OOP's sorry Steve I'm a slower typer

[TopCatGr58]

This may be too late, you may have already taken it farther apart, but here are a few photos.










T.C.

[ViperRon]

If the piston does not come out easy after pulling the dust cover and retaining ring shown in TC's picture tighten the bleeder valve and put a solid bolt in the hole where the hose bolts on and find a way to apply a little heat and the pressure will pop it out like a bullet. Caution I said like a bullet. This way you are not maring up the lip trying to get a grip to pull it out.

[TopCatGr58]

Plier Marks!

Hey Vipor,

In my own defense, those are very old photos from back in 2000 when I was still learning about working on these fine machines. Also, that lip doesn't do anything, the dust seal secures behind it, and the flat end is what makes contact with the pads, so that's why I wasn't worried about a few few Channel Lock marks on it! As you can see, the rest of the piston is pristine smooth where it seals against the seal!

Now I know about using compressed air, or grease gun, or even just the regular brakes if they still have fluid and the MC works!

T.C.

[Schming]

Grease Zerk...

...that fits the calipers is 10 x 1.25 as I have just done this and 125lbs.of air wouldn't budge the pistons.

[crazy steve]

...that fits the calipers is 10 x 1.25 as I have just done this and 125lbs.of air wouldn't budge the pistons.

You don't even need a zerk fitting; plug the brake hose hole with a bolt, then loosen the bleed screw and put the grease gun on that. It's shaped enough like a zerk for the gun tip to grip it....

[JScro]

I'll hold off on the replacement piston then until I can get it out, will pick up a grease gun for that today. Ordered the MC kits last night, the rear master cylinder is pretty bad. I cleaned the piston for an hour last night, and it still looks about the same. Nasty.

Also, anyone have a brake line vendor they really like? I seem to be striking out in the customer service department with the ones I've called.

[bikerphil]

The cleaner your brake system is, the better it will peform. The bike will stop much much better and the handle/pedal won't feel like wood, it will be easy to wheel around the garage, it won't shimmy at slow speeds, etc. Any crap crystalized brake fluid will hinder performance. My 2c.

[JScro]

Here's the piston. Doesn't look too bad I guess, but there is some pitting. Still good? I know it's kind of hard to tell from my phone pic. Do I need to get the o-ring out of the caliper? It looks good in there, not sure I should disturb it unless I need to.



Also, I got the snap ring off the rear master cylinder, but the washer right under it won't budge. Is there a trick to this I'm missing or do I just need to soak/clean it until it finally comes loose?

This is going to take a little longer than I thought.

[crazy steve]

That piston should be OK; any worse pitting and I'd personally replace it. Be sure and clean any rust spots off the internal surfaces; 0000 steel wool and chrome polish work well for that. And do pull that o-ring out; that's where 98% of all caliper problems are. Get the o-ring groove absolutely as clean as possible, being careful not to damage it. Corrosion behind the seal causes the seal to 'tighten' on the piston, preventing the piston from retracting properly and causes brake drag. Clean, clean, clean, that's what you need....

To get the rear master apart, pull on the part of the piston that's sticking out. Again, corrosion is your enemy...

[James England]

Do the whole lot. Otherwise you'll fix one thing, then another then another. I'd replace all damaged hoses, all the seals, master cylinders, the works. Then, you know it's done, and that you'll not be doing it again for a long time. A succession of brake component work isn't fun and stray fluid will take your paint off etc.

The way I look at it is slightly dramatic (but true).... parting with a few dollars (or in my case, £'s) is better than parting with bits of my anatomy or entire life. You're riding 285kg of machine at maybe 80mph.....you need to be 100% sure it will stop when you want it to. It's just not worth trying to save money on brake overhauls. If in doubt, replace it.

Yes, replace all the seals in the calipers... all of them. Yes, get that washer out of the M/C. I used a 'mole' wrench attached to the brake piston rod and whacked it a little... it pulled the washer right out + a load of foul gunge. As Steve says, all the crud will be under there. Don't bother with the MC pistons, you get new ones in the rebuild kits but keep a complete used one for reference.

[JScro]

Yeah, looks like I went all the way down the rabbit hole. Everything cleaned up pretty good, but the caliper o-ring was cracked pretty bad and the master cylinder boot was cracked too. I think I've ordered everything I can for this, so I said screw it and just ordered a piston for the rear too.