Brakes - What would you do?

[JScro]

I picked up my bike last weekend and as part of changing all the fluids, I flushed and bleed the brakes. Everything went smoothly, and I had solid brakes when I was done. Fast forward to this past weekend, and while washing the bike Saturday morning, I noticed both the front and rear wheels had some resistance from the calipers. I tried bleeding the system again, but it just made the issue worse.

So doing some searching, it would appear my spooge holes are clogged and that's most likely the reason for my calipers not releasing. My whole brake system looks pretty shoddy really. The line covering is dry rotted, the MC's were dirty and empty when I picked the bike up, and the pads are all pretty much shot.

So how far down the rabbit hole do I go? At the very least, I'm getting new pads and brake lines all around and clean the spooge holes. Should I also just go ahead and grab the master cylinder rebuild kits? And if I go that far, should I just go ahead and rebuild the calipers as well? The bike does have 86k on it and I'm unsure if it's ever been done before.

What would you do?

[tom clisham]

Sorry Man!

It's probably not just the spooge.
From your description of the brakes when you picked it up, you most likely need to beak down the MCs & calipers and really clean them out. You can do it with rubbing alcohol.
But, You have to take em apart, remove all rubber, Y clean insides. Especially the groove where the rubber piston seal sits. Crap under that seal will hold that piston from moving unless removed.

A good test: While brakes are dragging, tap caliper with a rubber hammer. If they free up, you gotta clean em.

[CatatonicBug]

Not just the MC rebuild kits, but get the caliper kits as well. If the system was dry, the seals are likely dry-rotted too, and will end up crumbling when you least expect it. Remember - Stopping is way more important than going!

If you really want to, you could even use this opportunity to swap over to DOT5 fluid! Something that is difficult to do if you have old fluid stuck to the lines/seals.

[DGXSER]

If it were my bike, I'd take the fornt system apart first and clean is completely. Inside the calipers is a groove the seal sits in.That allows the seal to rock forward when you apply the brakes and then roll back into place pulling the piston back with it when you release the pressure. This groove gets filled in behind the seal with dried cruddy brake fluid, which prevents it from going back into position and releasing the piston. The MC also has plnty of spots for goop to build and cause major issues. So for your safety sake, take the time to clean the calipers and the MCs out thoroughly. Also do the back system once the front is completed. And while your replacing lines, I highly recommend you go to the Stainless Steel line sets.

Now for the good news, more often than not, you can re-use all of the seals and components. I have yet to buy a brake caliper or MC rebuild kit for these bikes. I simply remove all the components, clean them thoroughly, and re-install. Works like a champ.

[dpotter58]

So how far down the rabbit hole do I go? At the very least, I'm getting new pads and brake lines all around and clean the spooge holes. Should I also just go ahead and grab the master cylinder rebuild kits? And if I go that far, should I just go ahead and rebuild the calipers as well? The bike does have 86k on it and I'm unsure if it's ever been done before.

What would you do?

If it was me, and I had the funds, I'd pick up the kits and do the whole thing one time. Most guys on here will tell you you don't "need" to but if it was me, I'd do it.

[crazy steve]

...So how far down the rabbit hole do I go?....
.... The bike does have 86k on it and I'm unsure if it's ever been done before.

All the way down.... At 86K miles, a complete rebuild is probably needed. One other thing you may want to budget for is caliper pistons; you won't know until you get the calipers apart, but if those are pitted on the outside circumference, new pistons are probably in order. Luckily, you can now get reproduction pistons made from stainless steel; not too many years ago these were unobtainium.....

[JScro]

It looks like the original owner rebuilt the front calipers in 2007 or so. I think I'll try to leave those alone besides changing the pads. I guess I'll take the MC's apart, and see how they look before ordering the rebuild kits but will definitely plan on rebuilding the rear caliper.

As always, appreciate the advice everyone.

[crazy steve]

Even if the fronts were supposedly rebuilt, you should still pull them off and disassemble/check them for peace of mind. If you're got goop in the master, chances are extremely good it's made its way to the calipers. The brakes on these are like the carbs; you can't get them too clean...

[JScro]

A good point Steve, I'll do it.

[ManagerMike]

When brand spanking new these bikes still had way more GO than STOP
Go down the rabbit hole till you meet Mr. Carroll himself, or you'll likely wind up the one with the migraine

[JScro]

I'm already nice and confused...

I called Gafler, and they said the standard is a 2 hose kit up front, or a 3 hose kit for the special. I have a 79 xs1100F. I have about a 10 inch brake line off the master cylinder to a splitter just behind the headlight to 2 hoses. This to me sounds like a 3 hose kit? Am I wrong?

Then the rear is a 3.5 inch line to a really small metal line to another 5 inch brake line to the master cylinder. Can I just replace this whole thing with a single brake line?

[natemoen]

You can do either 2 or 3 hoses up front, it's up to you.

Yes you can do just a single line in back.

[cywelchjr]

I'm already nice and confused...

I called Gafler, and they said the standard is a 2 hose kit up front, or a 3 hose kit for the special. I have a 79 xs1100F. I have about a 10 inch brake line off the master cylinder to a splitter just behind the headlight to 2 hoses. This to me sounds like a 3 hose kit? Am I wrong?

Then the rear is a 3.5 inch line to a really small metal line to another 5 inch brake line to the master cylinder. Can I just replace this whole thing with a single brake line?

This is what has kept me from going with Galfer so far, as I don't want to run two lines, I want to run three lines like stock, one line from the MC to the splitter and two down to the wheel cylinders.

[JScro]

This is what has kept me from going with Galfer so far, as I don't want to run two lines, I want to run three lines like stock, one line from the MC to the splitter and two down to the wheel cylinders.

When I spoke to them on the phone, they offer both the 2 and 3 line kits.

[ViperRon]

What ever you do when you work on it take it all appart and completly clean it. Soaking the assemblies is a good idea and then spraying them out with brake cleaner threw all ports. Alcohol can clean most surfaces but its hard to pressure it threw ports. On a neglected system once you disturb it trash you did not see starts moving. The idea is since you are spending the money to replace parts then its best to get all the crud out as it spreads throughout the system quick and starts the decay process again. If you repaint parts when you rebuild them IE calipers get a cheap brake bleeder kit to keep fluid off the paint as Brake fluid strips new paint quick.