Clutch plates 101

[KA1J]

I just replaced the stock springs with Barnett springs and as was mentioned to me earlier, all that was needed to stop the slipping was to use those Barnett springs. Makes it a whole different feel not just on the grip but the way the bike behaves. Apparently there was slipping going on much of the time and I didn't know it but I do feel the difference now.

Thought I should mention how it resolved the problem as someone else might find this thread and it'll save them a lot of grief.

Thanks to all who replied.

[trbig]

Glad it worked for you. Just about everyone I've told that has had a clutch slippage issue, when I tell them all they'll need is the Barnett springs, they're skeptical to say the least. Ask Greg (BA80).. lol. Some, like me, have been through several sets of other "Heavy duty" springs like EBC with short lived results. I went through probably at least a half dozen sets, along with adding an extra steel plate in there, and I wouldn't get but a few months out of them before they started slipping again. I kept measuring the friction plates and started thinking I needed all new stuff in there. As soon as I got in the Barnett springs, I saw that all weren't created equal. It's a much stouter spring and apparently doesn't loose it's spring qualities like others. My clutch has been rock solid for at least two years and maybe three with some pretty aggressive riding and wheelies with an 850 final drive on a bike with a full fairing.

So, if you can stand a little bit harder clutch pull, these are a no-brainer. Due to this slightly harder pull, though, I'd recommend also changing out that 30 year old clutch cable, or at least carry a new one with you. After being in that clutch over and over again, it was such a relief to find something that actually worked! I can't recommend them enough.

[3Phase]

Piling on to an old thread

As far as cleaning the steels go, as long as they are not burnt blue, Simply put them in a bath of Evapo-rust for a couple of hours. They will come out looking brand new. Any tarnish, deposits unknown etc will be gone and all you have to do is rinse them with water before re-installation. No need for sanding, rubbing or general wishing, it simply works. It will take about a quart "or in other terms 8 bucks worth" to do the job. Then you still have the evapo-rust for other jobs. Amazing stuff with many uses.

Rasputin,

Be careful with the Evapo-Rust. The Evapo-Rust works really well for cleaning good clutch steels but it also works too well.

I had two sets of clutch steels I wanted to clean: one from my '80G and one from my wrecked '82J. The '80G steels were and still are in good condition but half of the steels from the '82J, the ones closest to the engine case, were burned and blued. Just for grins I wired the steels together in sets and tagged them so they couldn't get mixed up, then soaked both of the sets in Evapo-Rust.

Yes! The Evapo-Rust cleaned both sets!

It also removed every trace of bluing and burning from the bad '82J steels. If I hadn't tagged the sets before cleaning them there would have been no way to tell the good steels from the bad steels.

After seeing with my own eyes what it can do to bad clutch steels I have a sneaking suspicion it will also do the same thing to bad steel roller/needle bearings, gears, and shafts too.

.

[Rasputin]

Rasputin,

Be careful with the Evapo-Rust. The Evapo-Rust works really well for cleaning good clutch steels but it also works too well.

I had two sets of clutch steels I wanted to clean: one from my '80G and one from my wrecked '82J. The '80G steels were and still are in good condition but half of the steels from the '82J, the ones closest to the engine case, were burned and blued. Just for grins I wired the steels together in sets and tagged them so they couldn't get mixed up, then soaked both of the sets in Evapo-Rust.

Yes! The Evapo-Rust cleaned both sets!

It also removed every trace of bluing and burning from the bad '82J steels. If I hadn't tagged the sets before cleaning them there would have been no way to tell the good steels from the bad steels.

After seeing with my own eyes what it can do to bad clutch steels I have a sneaking suspicion it will also do the same thing to bad steel roller/needle bearings, gears, and shafts too.

.

That is good to know. I guess I never left them in long enough to see if it took out the bluing. That could be a good thing as well if the plates themselves are not warped etc. I usually find if they got that hot though, they are toast. Not always but once I see blue I look at my parts pile.
Glad to see it did what I said though on cleaning up the useable steels.

[3Phase]

When I was working on the clutch this time around I remembered your suggestion to use Evapo-Rust and I thought to myself, "Do I want to get solvent and clutch crud all over me again or should I ... <sploosh!>"

It works great -- thank you!

[rover]

clutch

If you want some instructions on clutch work, look in the maintenance section. T C has a write-up on the dremel fix for transmissions, and explains in detail what to do and what NOT to do with the clutch star plate. Many here have shimmed the springs with spark plug washers, and no more slipping. There is a write-up on that too. These clutches are pretty much wear proof. Take it apart, clean everything, sand the burrs off the alignment tabs, measure the cork discs, soak them in the oil you will use, like overnight, use the Barnett springs, and your clutch problems should be over.

[3Phase]

Thank you very much, rover! I'll check it out the next time I do any clutch work!

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