Carb Rebuild Gas pouring out

[DAVINCI]

That 4 0 clock hole is the starter jet and connects to the emulsion tube tower through a diagonal port located imediately behind the float posts. Just learned that myself last week. The level of your fuel would have to be much too high for it to come out that hole if you lines are hooked to the correct t's

Exactly.

One more thing, it may have been discussed already, but you ARE setting your float measurements with the carbs turned up-side down, eh?

[Spootinay]

yes im putting the gas in the lower tees as they sit on the bike.

and the gas is coming out of the emulsion tube 4 o'clock holes and some out of the mouth of the airbox side of the carb.

all four carbs leaked the just two after i set all the floats the same.

BIG QUESTION:

do i push down on the float, when the carbs are upside down, to set the float height? OR do i just let them rest on the needle jet?

[Spootinay]

Can you be more specific so we don't go in circles here. Which carb is leaking, or are they all leaking. You describe the flow from the bottom right hole. I assume the 4 o clock hole as the carbs would sit in the bike. Your drop tabs have been set and when you roll the carbs front to back the floats move freely and don't hang up on the bottom of the post. As the carbs would sit on the bike, you have the fuel lines hooked to the bottom T's. Am I right so far?

all correct sir

[bikerphil]

do i push down on the float, when the carbs are upside down, to set the float height? OR do i just let them rest on the needle jet?

Don't push them down, let them rest naturally. Float level for brass floats is 25.5 mm or 1".

[Spootinay]

float level set at one inch. max float open tabs adjusted. carb is immaculate. gas hooked up to correct tees. blah blah blah. still leaking.

Time to order some replacement parts.

[cywelchjr]

float level set at one inch. max float open tabs adjusted. carb is immaculate. gas hooked up to correct tees. blah blah blah. still leaking.

Time to order some replacement parts.

Are you sure the vents aren't plugged? The symptoms are exactly like they are plugged, which can happen if they have the wrong type of T's put in the vent position as they will block the vents. You should be able to blow into the vent lines and the it should blow out into the bowl area with the bowls off. Someone else on here was having the same problem and found the wrong T's on the vents (had the fuel type T's in the vents as I recall) blocking them causing them to overflow. This symptom is exactly what happens if the vent lines are plugged for some reason, so make SURE the vent lines are not plugged.

[BA80]

float level set at one inch. max float open tabs adjusted. carb is immaculate. gas hooked up to correct tees. blah blah blah. still leaking.

Time to order some replacement parts.

Lower ( raise with carbs upside down) the float level 1mm and see what happens.

1" is 25.4mm float level is supposed to be 25.7mm lowering 1mm might take care of it, if not go another mm.

[petejw]

At this point, I'd try bench testing these again but with a twist. Pull the bowls, turn the carbs upside down so the valves are closed, then put fuel to them. If the valves are leaking, you'll see where. You shouldn't get much if any fuel past the needles if they're good...

do what steve suggested but instead of using fuel, hold the carbs
upside down with ur hands wrap ur mouth around the fuel "t"
and blow, ull feel and hear where the leak
is coming from.

[BA80]

I don't know why but that kinda turned me on Pete.

[petejw]

I don't know why but that kinda turned me on Pete.

lmao ur a sick man greg.

[mack]

parts

If your seats and needles aren't leaking during the first test, (bowls off, carbs upside down resting on the tops, fuel or air applied) then the valves and needles are doing what they're supposed to do and don't need replacing. Work on your floats and experiment with the levels. 25.7mm is just a starting point that usually works but can vary up or down 1mm either way. Remember it's important that the carbs are plumb and level during testing. Make sure you inspect your vent T's, they can get plugged up like everything else, however to do them really good the carbs should really be split a part and the t's removed. Having said that, if you hook a hose up to them and can blow air through them freely with the bowls off, they should work.

[Spootinay]

I broke a post yesterday. which is like the icing on the cake!

isn't there a jb weld product i can use for that? Can I use soldiering?

and ill see if ive got the tees in the wrong place.

[Spootinay]

Are you sure the vents aren't plugged? The symptoms are exactly like they are plugged, which can happen if they have the wrong type of T's put in the vent position as they will block the vents. You should be able to blow into the vent lines and the it should blow out into the bowl area with the bowls off. Someone else on here was having the same problem and found the wrong T's on the vents (had the fuel type T's in the vents as I recall) blocking them causing them to overflow. This symptom is exactly what happens if the vent lines are plugged for some reason, so make SURE the vent lines are not plugged.

is there a way to distinguish between the two?

[jetmechmarty]

I broke a post yesterday. which is like the icing on the cake!

isn't there a jb weld product i can use for that? Can I use soldiering?

and ill see if ive got the tees in the wrong place.

No, you can't glue it or solder it. I had one welded, but I'm not sure if that service is available anymore. Depending upon where it broke, some clever fixes have been posted on here.

[ambidextrous]

as far as clever fixes go, the PO of my bike somehow drilled a tiny hole on an angle and inserted a trim nail into it or something

i wanted to snap a pic, but my hands were dirty and all i had was my phone

i couldnt believe it

i was never able to clean my carbs properly because i was afraid to attempt to remove the nail