diaphragm

[old_skool]

Brought all my carb parts in from the cold garage as I can finish the rebuild in the house since no odors are present, so SWMBO won't mind to much, upon inspecting the diaphragms a little closer, I noticed even though they all look good, when I held them up to the light, they had numerous micro holes where I could see the light through. They are small enough not to prevent them from working but disturbing none the less, not sure if there will be any difference in the way they work because of this or just a prelude of failure waiting to happen.
Now replacing these weren't in the immediate budget, that's for sure, but I thought I read somewhere here there is a way too touch them up, some kind of sealant, glue or...that will allow them to still be pliable, how about a thin layer of rtv smeared like a second skin, anyone have any luck finding a way to resurrect these? 79SF

[GLoweVA]

Not sure about RTV, it might not stand up to the gas vapors very well.
i do remember a thread in here (or a tech tip) about just that type of repair.
i think they used some of that liquid rubber stuff that we use on the carb boots.

[ManagerMike]

I've read here that the spray on version of Plasti-Dip is the trick, one thin coat.

http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip

Available at most auto part and home improvement stores

[motoman]

Do NOT use the Plasti-Dip! It won't stay and WILL make a mess in there plugging ports with teeny-tiny pieces everywhere but where it originally was applied. Trust me.......BTDT. What I accidently found that worked was plastic bumper repair glue. Only thing I've found that worked, but a bit pricey coming from your local automotive paint store. Don't know if being made in Switzerland is attributed to that cost but anyway product is called Fusor, with several, and I do mean several different product numbers for different applications and repairs. This particular one is Fusor 143 for EXTREME bumper repair and I've found it to work REALLY well on fairing lowers and on one piece of tupperware on my ST. One tiny drop on pinholes in diaphrams is all that's needed. Do NOT try and wipe smooth. The one time puchase of the application gun($40) is the costly part. The product is a two-part tube similar to your epoxies and is approx. $20. The product is inserted in application gun, works like rachet does on a caulk gun.(can U say auto CCT). The end of paired tubes has a one-time use mixing chamber(keep several @ $1.80ea.). Product is mixed when it comes out the end, and is chemically self-heated. I have wiped it flat using my finger, but is like smearing hot wax and can smart a bit before getting off finger. Set time is a minute or less, so hence having extra mixing chambers unless one sets up several projects in needin' of repair. And I DO mean a minute or less is all you got to have pieces positioned correctly. As for the diaphrams, I pulled the one I dobbed a drop on a pin-hole several months earlier, and it looked the same as when first applied. Also, fuel mist/residue seems to have no effect on it. Best part from what I've experienced using it to attach pieces back together is if you exert force where pieces are glued with this stuff, your piece WILL break somewhere else before it does where it was glued. After finding the mess the Plasti-Dip left, I decided since already having this product on hand, would give it a try first before replacing any diaphrams. Those have been my results, and hope it may be of some help to others here.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

$$$

Save your $$$ and still fix it right
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-4p...sories&vxp=mtr

Brought all my carb parts in from the cold garage as I can finish the rebuild in the house since no odors are present, so SWMBO won't mind to much, upon inspecting the diaphragms a little closer, I noticed even though they all look good, when I held them up to the light, they had numerous micro holes where I could see the light through. They are small enough not to prevent them from working but disturbing none the less, not sure if there will be any difference in the way they work because of this or just a prelude of failure waiting to happen.
Now replacing these weren't in the immediate budget, that's for sure, but I thought I read somewhere here there is a way too touch them up, some kind of sealant, glue or...that will allow them to still be pliable, how about a thin layer of rtv smeared like a second skin, anyone have any luck finding a way to resurrect these? 79SF

[old_skool]

Damn! no plasti dip, I have more than a couple pin holes....what about that liquid tape, any other rubber glue type products anyone has tried? Anything that dries that quick can't be too pliable if a lot is used, could be wrong.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

That 59 dollar price is for all 4 NEW diaphrams That is cheaper then some sell ONE for and less then the glue stuff to fix

Damn! no plasti dip, I have more than a couple pin holes....what about that liquid tape, any other rubber glue type products anyone has tried? Anything that dries that quick can't be too pliable if a lot is used, could be wrong.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Test

You can also test the ones you have to see if they are good enough. With the caps on, push the piston all the way up, cover the inlet hole and release, if it holds or only very slightly moves, it will work fine

[old_skool]

That is a good price, but I don't even have $20 bucks for glue till I sell something else, I have a little money stashed for some other parts, but if I use that, then I'll never get those other parts I've told people I'll buy, this damn XS is going to be the death of me.... I might just fix it in running condition and sell it, find a classic that needs a few less constant repairs.....just venting, all classics need constant attention!

You can also test the ones you have to see if they are good enough. With the caps on, push the piston all the way up, cover the inlet hole and release, if it holds or on very slightly moves, it will work fine

They appear they may work for now, but hate to tear into them again if a little dab of this or that will prolong the inevitable.
I also thought some of the diaphrams for different years were different in size

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

750

I hear ya brother $$$ is tight and I only buy when I can and have too. Know you got a 750, don't know if any of the diaphrams will fit/work, but worth a check. DONT spray stuff on them, that will cause way more problems then it will fix. If they even hold OK on the "test", when you sync them, it wil help balance the slight leaks too

That is a good price, but I don't even have $20 bucks for glue till I sell something else, I have a little money stashed for some other parts, but if I use that, then I'll never get those other parts I've told people I'll buy, this damn XS is going to be the death of me.... I might just fix it in running condition and sell it, find a classic that needs a few less constant repairs.....just venting, all classics need constant attention!

[old_skool]

Sold most of the 750 already, still have a few things, but carbs are gone.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Vibration

If you watch this vid. it will show how much vibration the diaphragms go through and why they shouldn't be coated with anything P.S. NEVER run your bike like this with no air filter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tR63vrfhwr8

[old_skool]

they shouldn't be coated with anything ]

I'd coat them with skunk piss if it saved 50cents....
I'm going to try and use some plasti-dip liquid tape on the pin holes, worse case scenario....take apart , clean and do it over.

[CaptonZap]

I'd coat them with skunk piss if it saved 50cents....
I'm going to try and use some plasti-dip liquid tape on the pin holes, worse case scenario....take apart , clean and do it over.

I have used the Plasti-dip spray with no ill effects. The secret, as in all coating situations, is in surface preperation.
Use some fine wet or dry to scuff the area around the hole. Clean the area with toluene, using a CLEAN rag. Cut a hole in a piece of paper that is slightly larger than the area to be sprayed. Apply one wet coat, so that the coating can run into the micro grooves left by the wet or dry. Let it dry for a few minutes, (depending on temperature and humidity), untill the gloss is gone, and the paint around the hole is not tacky to the touch. Add another coat. Repeat with a third coat, and let dry for a day or two, or a couple of hours in the oven at 200 deg. If your housemate comments about the smell, just say that you are doing your nails.
I did mine on the top side, and there should be no contact with gasoline there.
If you are using the liquid, prep as above, and use a toothpick to apply, and you should get the same result, probably with one application, seeing as how it is thicker than the spray. The point is, do not let the first coat dry too much before any following layers are applied, as adhesion between the two will suffer. CZ

[3Phase]

Get some new diaphragms

I haven't tried the liquid dip but the stuff in the spray can didn't last very long before the gas turned it back into sticky black ooze.