PJ1 Ceramic/porcelain frame paint-angry

[mharrington]

I like the product- the bad smell tells me its gonna be durable. The can sprayed, splattered and splooged paint everywhere except out the nozzle. I ordered it from the Cycle local dealer The counter person told me: "I tried the stuff and all it did was splatter and splurt. Other guys had the same thing happen to them." Well because I have been thru 2 cans of PJ1 engine black with GREAT results I ordered the can of gloss black frame paint ANYWAY. At first it spat a little- made my finger tips black. I removed a clean tip from one of my empty engine black cans and it worked better- just a tad seepage. When I was done I held the can upside down and sprayed until it was just gas (as the instructions of all paints direct) The paint can stays at my job in a 70 deg climate. 3 days later I go to use it and its just a mix of 70% out the nozzle tip and 30% on my hands and onto the floor. Another different tip from a functioning can of engine black- same results. I got my XS650 swing arm painted but I had to sand and buff out the runs and spatter. I plan to try from the hardware store some "Appliance Gloss Black Epoxy Paint" Powder coating is not in the budget and painting with gun and compressor is not either. What are your experiences with PJ1 frame paint?

[motoman]

No experience with the PJ, but did my frame some six yrs. ago using Duplicolor........still there and shiney..........JAT.

[mharrington]

What is six rys?

[crazy steve]

I've personally never had any luck with rattle-can epoxies, several different brands (although not PJ). My experiences pretty much mirror yours, with poor spray patterns and generally making a mess. One paint place said the trick was to make sure it's mixed really good (shake the can until you're sure your arm is going to fall off), and they even tried putting the can in their 'mixer'. The vibration broke the siphon tube off inside the can, so much for that idea....

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Spray bombs

Spray cans have a shelf life and the thicher the paint the shortet the life. Some have MFG dates on the bottom of the can or on the top bead. If shaking it hard for 2 or more min. solid before spraying and it still doesn't make it spray right, toss it

[TADracer]

Here is an observation

First, I am not trying to step on toes or belittle anyone and I certainly am not a professional painter (legal diaclaimer done).

There are alot of paint threads I read and I certainly am not a pro though I have managed to get several top notch finishes over the years. But it seems to me that if the frame is stripped enough to be able to put a finish on with a spray bomb without getting it all over the motor and other things, then it is stripped enough for a better quality finish. I know many of us do not have a shop full of tools (I certainly do not) but refinishing equipment for a good job is not very expensive in the overall scheme. A small HVLP detail gun, a decent quality full size gravity feed gun and a cheap sandblast gun with hoses and a few other accessories is easily available at Harbor Freight or other tool places for under $150.00. Yes you need to find or borrow a compressor if you do not have one but these few tools will make all the difference and save you alot of anguish. Plus, you can use them over and over.....even to paint your patio furniture with Rustoleum when Spring comes along in a few months.

Paint failures can be very time consuming and costly on top of the emotional impact (and yes, we are emotional about our beloved machines). So I try and limit spray cans to small parts that can easily be removed and refinished.

[motoman]

Might wanna re-read MHarrington..........

[motoman]

Very true TADracer, prep. is key to any good paint job. A mixed up can from the automotive paint store is a good option for small projects like these scoots as they DO have a very good atonizing noozle Duplicolor also has a very good atomizing noozle and is excellent paint quality. And yes I do have a nice variable pattern detail gun and soda blaster. These small projects, I have yet to even use the gun, still NIB. Soda blaster I use regularly specially for the nooks and crannies. For an even paint coating with no dull spots I still use Duplicolor just because of the quality of the noozle and paint.......for other things that don't much matter, the cheaper Rustoleum works, after a fashion anyways.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Paint

No toe steping here either TA, Great results can be achived either way. If you got some good spray eq and get used to useing it, you have a lot of options as to what you can spray out of it. But I must say, today, you can get the same quilty paint in spray cans, how be it, not as much controll with spray patterns and thinner temp choises. The are even 2K systems in cans now with good quility spray heads, so if $$ are limeted and you have some skills, you can come out with a great long lasting job on a bugget I did all of mine with spray cans, including thetank, sidecovers, motor and exaust

First, I am not trying to step on toes or belittle anyone and I certainly am not a professional painter (legal diaclaimer done).

There are alot of paint threads I read and I certainly am not a pro though I have managed to get several top notch finishes over the years. But it seems to me that if the frame is stripped enough to be able to put a finish on with a spray bomb without getting it all over the motor and other things, then it is stripped enough for a better quality finish. I know many of us do not have a shop full of tools (I certainly do not) but refinishing equipment for a good job is not very expensive in the overall scheme. A small HVLP detail gun, a decent quality full size gravity feed gun and a cheap sandblast gun with hoses and a few other accessories is easily available at Harbor Freight or other tool places for under $150.00. Yes you need to find or borrow a compressor if you do not have one but these few tools will make all the difference and save you alot of anguish. Plus, you can use them over and over.....even to paint your patio furniture with Rustoleum when Spring comes along in a few months.

Paint failures can be very time consuming and costly on top of the emotional impact (and yes, we are emotional about our beloved machines). So I try and limit spray cans to small parts that can easily be removed and refinished.

[TADracer]

Great looking job....I am inpressed!

No toe steping here either TA, Great results can be achived either way. If you got some good spray eq and get used to useing it, you have a lot of options as to what you can spray out of it. But I must say, today, you can get the same quilty paint in spray cans, how be it, not as much controll with spray patterns and thinner temp choises. The are even 2K systems in cans now with good quility spray heads, so if $$ are limeted and you have some skills, you can come out with a great long lasting job on a bugget I did all of mine with spray cans, including thetank, sidecovers, motor and exaust

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Thanks

I am on a budget And I had most of the paint cans already, so it was a work of ness. rather then choise. i have spray equipment, but the cost of paint was a problem Don't know everyones eles's $$$ now, but I know many are tight, so hope all do well and even better this year, including me

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Spray bombs

How you mix the spray can is as important as how long you shake it. All the pigment settles to the bottom (where the pick up tube is also) so if you don't get ALL that mixed up, you will clog and splatter when you try to spray. What I do is shake the can for about 30 sec. to lossen everything up, then hold the can by the top and spin the bottom around in circles till you here the ball spinning with no resistance for a few sec.. Then flip the can upside down and rattel the crap out of it for about a min. i know this sounds like over kill, but it is better then getting halfway across the tank and SPLATTER, SPLATTER

[mharrington]

Good info here. I contacted PJ1. They requested the batch number and said they will send me another can. When I try again I will do the mixing technique above (thanks!) and will plan on doing all the painting that time- no letting a partial can sit around.