Steering Head Bearing Races

[jetmechmarty]

I can't get them out. I don't have a welder or a Dremel. I can't seem to find anything to knock them out. There doesn't appear to be enough lip to catch the race.

Suggestions?

[crazy steve]

Marty, there's two 'recesses' in each race bore to give you a place to drive them out. You'll need a long punch with a flat end (about 1/4" in diameter) to do this. Clean all the gunk out and you should be able to see/feel them...

[LuckyEddie]

Race Driver

Or try one of these.... http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Prod.../315-1250.aspx

[jetmechmarty]

Steve,

There are no recesses for the upper race. There are two on the bottom. The top race is out just the same. I can't get a bite on the bottom one as those recesses aren't deep enough. I haven't had this problem on an XS650. I've walked away for now.

LuckyEddie,

That's exactly what I needed for the top race. The bottom has only the two shallow recesses. There's no place else to get a bite.

[crazy steve]

To tell you the truth, I can count how many tapered roller steering head bearings I've replaced on my thumbs... I've found that as long as they don't get rusty/pitted, end up with oblong rollers from somebody overtightening, or ran with abrasive contamination, they don't go bad. Discoloration won't hurt, and if the races pass the 'fingernail' test (drag your nail on it, if it feels smooth, it is) I'll repack and reinstall. They really don't 'wear', as the range/speed of motion is so small.

The ball steering head bearings are another story....

[jetmechmarty]

I'm sorry to say, I neglected mine. The top one was completely dry and the cage rusting. The bottom one need grease as well. It was pretty well stuck on the stem. I destroyed it getting it off.

[jetmechmarty]

I guess the Special uses different bearings than the standard?

[crazy steve]

I guess the Special uses different bearings than the standard?

Nope, they're all the same....

[bikerphil]

Try using a long drift punch with a small tip to reach down in there and catch the small edge. It might even be necessary to bend the drift in the center to get the right angle. The tool shown above looks like the ticket. Or go buy a dremel at Wally World, you know you'll find a use for it again down the road. One way or another they are a mofo to remove. Good luck.

[jetmechmarty]

I'm not quite sure what I need here.

Z1 page 3

It's on the 3rd (last) page.

[bikerphil]

Excellent quality bearing set with seals....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-Balls-St...-/280802254833

[jetmechmarty]

In the Z1 link there's a bearing for XS1100 and it's about the price Phil posted. The second listing is for the Special models. What's the difference besides about $12?

[crazy steve]

Both kits have the same bearings, so either one will fit. As near as I can tell, the more expensive kit looks like it may have the lower bearing rubber seal as fitted OEM, but you'd have to verify that with them. It lacks a new upper splash shield. The cheaper kit appears to have a metal 'splash shield' for both bearings, which if the truth be known is probably more than adequate.

[bikerphil]

You need a new lower rubber seal to keep the grease from dripping out on a hot day. It goes on the stem before the lower bearing is pressed/hammered on. The upper splash shield can be re-used, it is only a metal plate.

[crazy steve]

You need a new lower rubber seal to keep the grease from dripping out on a hot day. It goes on the stem before the lower bearing is pressed/hammered on. The upper splash shield can be re-used, it is only a metal plate.

Phil, my Harleys use a splash shield and I've never had problems with grease coming out. Now, if you used the zerk fitting that HD put on some steering necks and pump the neck full of grease to 'repack' the bearings, you definitely get some leakage .... and keep getting it until the 'excess' runs out....