I noticed last year that the gaskets all leaked a good amount of oil at higher speeds, also that I wasn't getting the performance that I expected from this bike. Well I decided it's going to be a good idea to replace all of the seals and rings on the engine, give it all a good cleaning and try and spruce the old girl up. Any advice or input of any kind? I would greatly appreciate any at all.
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full engine re-build
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Personally, I'd find a good donor engine to run in place of the one your rebuilding, this way you can take your time, replace hardware with ss Allen's, polish all the cases, and if you need any parts to replace you'll have the time to search for best prices or machine shop if needed. JMO, unless you have something else to ride or not worried about it, but you can usually source entire donor bikes fairly cheap, and sell off parts not needed to offset cost of donor and repairs. Oh, and you could always inspect or do the second gear repair while its out also!
Get a manual if you don't already have one.81 XS1100H
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Parts
New parts can be a PIA to find. You can find rod and main bearings on Ebay most of the time, but$$$. The rings are the hardest parts to find new, not know of any stock new out there anymore. Before you do a complet teardown, check the compression, if in spec, you can reuse the rings you have if needed. Also, if good compression, I would check and see why no power There are many things that cause these bikes to run poorly, running on 3 cyls happens often, poor carb adj, cleaning, weak coils, valve adjustment etc. If you have good compression and low preformance, a rebuild probly wont help much, JAT
Originally posted by Intelcamo1232 View PostI noticed last year that the gaskets all leaked a good amount of oil at higher speeds, also that I wasn't getting the performance that I expected from this bike. Well I decided it's going to be a good idea to replace all of the seals and rings on the engine, give it all a good cleaning and try and spruce the old girl up. Any advice or input of any kind? I would greatly appreciate any at all.1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
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Rebuild
Before you start as suggested by SX1100_OEM4ME I would do the basic checks on engine compression valve adjustment checks etc. You may find a simple problem and save a lot of money and aggrivation. I by bought new parts for mine some time back and they are not cheap. I would recomend looking for an engine here on this site or EBAY. Just rings when I got mine were 130.00 and I got a discount. When you get ready to clean up the engine I would do it like XSive Maximus and not paint the engine. I painted mine with a high temp clear and wish I had not. If you take the time to polish up the engine like I did and then the head starts to yellow you will be pissed. If you need any help first check the FAQ and then ask we will help.To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.
Rodan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
1980 G Silverbird
Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
1198 Overbore kit
Grizzly 660 ACCT
Barnett Clutch Springs
R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
122.5 Main Jets
ACCT Mod
Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
Antivibe Bar ends
Rear trunk add-on
http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/
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As was said, rebuilding one of these isn't something you do lightly. Rings aren't too bad to find usually (here's a set for $80...http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-XS110...sories&vxp=mtr) but pistons/bearings are expensive and very hard to find (figure about $800 ). As far as sealing the motor against leaks, as long as it's not leaking at the head or base gaskets, most gaskets can be replaced by Yamabond sealer and the few seals needed (and still available) can be purchased separately. If you need to pull the head, then buying a complete gasket set will be cheaper than buying a head gasket by itself; PartsNMore will have the gasket set for about $90.Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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Good find!
That is a good find CS! While not OEM, should be fine and a good price The last time I did a complet overhaul, had to hunt and spend$$ to get the OEM rings. I sold a complet set of rod and main OEM bearings (all colors and complet) for $75.00 this past year, needed the money
Originally posted by crazy steve View PostAs was said, rebuilding one of these isn't something you do lightly. Rings aren't too bad to find usually (here's a set for $80...http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-XS110...sories&vxp=mtr) but pistons/bearings are expensive and very hard to find (figure about $800 ). As far as sealing the motor against leaks, as long as it's not leaking at the head or base gaskets, most gaskets can be replaced by Yamabond sealer and the few seals needed (and still available) can be purchased separately. If you need to pull the head, then buying a complete gasket set will be cheaper than buying a head gasket by itself; PartsNMore will have the gasket set for about $90.1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
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On the crankshaft bearing shells, I remember someone saying just to use the blue color (tightest) shells with a used smooth crank and you'll be OK. Not that those are any easier to find, YMMV2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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Just to add, the crankshaft journal bearings are readily available, as the FJ1100 + 1200 use the same shells as the XS11 with the exception of that one oddball half shell.Last edited by bikerphil; 01-02-2012, 08:23 PM.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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Fuel
Blue is best, especialy if you plan to wash out your motor a few times with fuel like I did
Originally posted by bikerphil View PostOn the crankshaft bearing shells, I remember someone saying just to use the blue color (tightest) shells with a used smooth crank and you'll be OK. Not that those are any easier to find, YMMV1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
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