No power getting to ignition...

[jmcvey1]

over in my intro thread i posted that I was having trouble getting my new xs1100 started and thought i'd make a new thread to really try and get this figured out.

When i engage the ignition, turn the switch on the throttle to 'run', and hit the start button (all in neutral) nothing happens. So, I doubt its a battery issue as its new and had a full charge a month or two ago, I'd assume it'd at least try to turn am I right?

I had unplugged all the connectors to get my headlight buckets off and I plugged those back in. I even plugged the headlight and gauges back in to see if for some reason that was the problem. Still nada.

So. I've narrowed my search to the throttle assembly. My first question is this, when I disassembled it, this blue cable (body side) stripped out of the connector to the red wire (start button, assembly side) which should be fine... i'm just confused that their different colors. Is this right?



SECOND PROBLEM

the red wire, which the said blue wire connects to, that goes to the start button, seems to be soldered in second hand. this may explain the color change. also, the button seems loose and doesn't feel very strudy. I tightened the screw in it and it seemed to help but is the start button something that goes out on these things?






All of this being a problem, maybe my solution is just buying a kickstarter...

[bikerphil]

The red/wht wires complete a path thru the kill switch to the solenoid to provide it with current (+) when the key is turned on. With the key on, check at the solenoid for 12V at the red/wht wire solder connection. The blue wire completes the ground (-) to the solenoid when the starter button is pressed by grounding the blue wire thru the handlebars. If there is 12V present at the small red/wht wire at the solenoid solder joint, the bike will crank when grounding the blue wire solder joint on the solenoid.

[DAVINCI]

+1 on what bikerphil wrote.

Also, that red wire solder joint looks like crap. Even if you solve this problem, that solder joint won't hold up long term. Re-solder it. While you're at it, maybe use a blue wire?

AND, there is a black wire in that switch to provide a local ground, I may see it hanging below the blue in your photo? If you have other ground problems elsewhere (most neglected bikes do), having that local ground can help with the starter button operation.

[TopCatGr58]

Also, corrosion can form on the inside of the button switch, you can gently take it out by prying/bending it a little to get to the button and it's contact point, and file/clean them up if found corroded.

ALSO, I noted in the PHOTO that you emergency kill switch is turned to OFF, you'll want to be sure you put it back in the middle position...otherwise it won't crank! And it, too, can form corrosion inside it, so you can take it apart also to check/clean.

T.C.

[Rasputin]

[QUOTE turn the switch on the throttle to 'run',QUOTE]
That pretty much shows the position of the kill switch for me.
Have you tried to turn on the ignition switch and jump the starter solenoid? That will tell you in a heartbeat if the problem is in the handlebar wiring or elsewhere.

[Danny Crawdad]

Have you tried to turn on the ignition switch and jump the starter solenoid? That will tell you in a heartbeat if the problem is in the handlebar wiring or elsewhere.

Yeah, you still need to fix that solder joint and work out that weird wiring, but to do a quick test this is the way to go, in my opinion. If it cranks, you know your problem is at the switch. If not, you need to fix something else too .

By the way, I had the same problem a few months ago, but intermittently, and thought something was wrong with my start button/right control, but it ended up being a dead battery. A dead battery that would still sometimes crank the bike, and other times do absolutely nothing when I pressed the button. Turned out to be a bad cell in the battery.

I'd start at the battery, personally, then move to the solenoid and work your way back to the switch to find out what's wrong. Don't assume just because it was good a month ago that it still is, or even was then. The battery that failed on me was an expensive Interstate AGM that was less than 6 months old. It tested "good" on two separate parts store testers. Like I said, it would also still crank the bike (albeit slowly) and showed a surface charge that even my smart Battery Tender would fill it and show it as charged. A $50 battery later and I haven't had an issue with the starter button again.