Best way to turn the valve buckets for shim removal?

[FormerGlory]

I just completed measuring the valve clearances and need to turn the valve buckets so the notch is directly opposite the valve shim tool. Some of the notches are accessible and others are under the cam lobe and not easily accessible. How do I access and turn the ones that I can't get to? I'd rather not lift the cams if I can avoid it.

All advice appreciated. Thanks

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Spin

I can spin mine around to the front with my finger when the cam lobe is up and off the lifter? Are yours stuck?

I just completed measuring the valve clearances and need to turn the valve buckets so the notch is directly opposite the valve shim tool. Some of the notches are accessible and others are under the cam lobe and not easily accessible. How do I access and turn the ones that I can't get to? I'd rather not lift the cams if I can avoid it.

All advice appreciated. Thanks

[FormerGlory]

No, just had a complete head cleaning done by my local machine shop (sonic and glass bead blast) and also a complete valve job, grinding and new seals. There is a bit of resistance when attempting to spin them, but they slide in and out easily. Can't spin them using my finger. I rebuild a lot of bikes from the frame up but this is my first experience with an XS11.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Is there O clearence when the cam lobe is all the way up? If the shim has any clearence at all, the tappit should spin ease with just your finger pushing it?

No, just had a complete head cleaning done by my local machine shop (sonic and glass bead blast) and also a complete valve job, grinding and new seals. There is a bit of resistance when attempting to spin them, but they slide in and out easily. Can't spin them using my finger. I rebuild a lot of bikes from the frame up but this is my first experience with an XS11.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Spin

I am not being funny, nore, putting down your bike knowledge, but if the cam is not touching the shim, the tappet should move easy? don't know what is holding yours, but the mach shop stuff makes me wounder if you still have a gap when the cam is up?

[TADracer]

Like the previous post, I am not trying to be smart but, have you coated everything on top of the head with oil before you assembled? The buckets should spin freely and you should be able to turn the slots away with a small pick or your finger. If yours are sticking, STOP and find out why.

[Lonerider62]

I just did a re-shim on my valves after it appeared that the PO or maybe a couple PO's didn't worry too much about valve clearance and they were tight, a couple only had .003". I have to believe that if someone did a valve job where they actually re-did the seats and valve faces you have very little to no clearance and that's why you can't turn the buckets. What were your measurements on the valves?

[FormerGlory]

All valves and seats were ground and seals were replaced. I checked the clearances and all are .03-.05. Pretty tight, as expected after a valve job. Probably best to pull the cams, replace the pads and put her back together.

Thanks

[Lonerider62]

Your intake clearance sould be .16-.20mm and exhaust .21-.25mm so yes you are very tight. You'll need 8 new shims. Make sure you document all your numbers then check out your existing shim thicknesses and figure out what size you need for each valve. This process takes a lot of record keeping to be sure you get the right shim in the right spot or the whole process wil be for naught. You may be able to get shims on here or from Cycle-Re-Cycle ($5.95 ea.) The manual says to check the valve clearance every 4000 if I remember correctly and I think all too many owners neglect that part of maintenace because it is a bit on the time consuming side or because they don't hear any noise coming from the valve train they think they are safe which is just the opposite of the truth.

[crazy steve]

...You'll need 8 new shims...

Maybe, but I doubt it. You'll likely be able to move some of your existing shims around to get proper clearance, and may only need to pick up a few. The last valve adjustment I did, I moved six and bought two. You don't need new shims either; unless they show very visible signs of heavy wear or damage, they'll be fine. Check with the service department (not parts) at your local dealer; many will exchange or sell you used shims for a nominal charge. In addition to the XS, the same shims were used in older KZ1000/1100, so check around.

My preferred method is to pull the cams, as this gives you access to all the shims at once.

[FormerGlory]

Appreciate all your inputs. Thank you. The existing shims are a couple 280s, 275s and one 265. All buckets and cam bearing surfaces have plenty of assembly lube on them, and as a few mentioned, my valves are really tight following the valve job. Evidently the previous owner(s) rarely checked or adjusted the valves because the valve cavities were most completely full of carbon and crud. They once again look new after a sonic cleaning and glass bead blasting.

Valve clearance post-valve job is .03-05, and a few of the .03s are even tighter. I didn't have anything smaller than a .03 feeler gauge so I'm not sure what it actually is. Based on the measurements, I need 250/255/260 and a 265. I can reuse the 265 I have, but will need to get the others. All are in very good condition and don't show any signs of wear. Thanks for the info on where to get or trade them.

Once I get the new pads in, I'll recheck the adjustment to make sure each is in spec.

THANKS!!

[Lonerider62]

There are some charts that will help you out figuring the shims you need. For instance, if you have a 280 shim installed and have .00-.05 clearance, you will need a 265 in that position (intake side) The reason I thought you would need all new shims was because you have only one 265 to work with and as you said a couple were less than .03 clearance just be sure to do your calculating first and going fat on your clearance will be helpful on the next check as the clearances diminish with age.

[crazy steve]

I hate that chart....

I've found that measuring the clearance in inches is easier. You want .006-.008" on the intakes (using the 'looser' early spec, which gives you more time between adjustments) and .008-.010" on the exhausts. Each shim increment (from a 265 to a 260 for example) will change the clearance by .002", so it's easy to figure what you need. Got .004", need .008"? Drop two shim sizes and you're there...

[bikerphil]

I hate that chart....

I've found that measuring the clearance in inches is easier. You want .006-.008" on the intakes (using the 'looser' early spec, which gives you more time between adjustments) and .008-.010" on the exhausts. Each shim increment (from a 265 to a 260 for example) will change the clearance by .002", so it's easy to figure what you need. Got .004", need .008"? Drop two shim sizes and you're there...

Wow, there is someone else out there that uses the .002" a step method. That way is so freakin' easy once you grasp the concept.

[crazy steve]

I even have a set of go/no-go feeler gauges that I use; the very end is ground .002" thinner than the main body of the gauge (i.e. .006/.008"), so these will quickly tell you when you're within spec...

The gauges are made by Snap-on, part # FB322, about $15. Worth every nickel when doing a valve adjustment...