when i turn blinkers on, ALL lights flash

[natemoen]

The third prong in the harness is ONLY for the self canceler. Buying a three prong flasher will most certainly not solve the problem. A simple 2 prong electronic flasher is what you need if you do not have the original oem flasher.

[crazy steve]

Nope, that's not it...

The Yamaha flasher, while 3 prong, is not the same as 'regular' 3 prong flashers. The extra wire is for the self-cancel feature and has nothing to do with the actual flashing. Many owners use 2 prong flashers, they just give up the self-cancel.

Make sure the 2-prong is plugged in correctly; it will fit two ways, but needs to be connected to the brown and brown/white wires to work right. If that doesn't clear the problem, you need to start tracing wires and connections.

[cywelchjr]

Additionally if it was plugged in wrong, the lights wouldn't all flash, they wouldn't flash at all. So that wouldn't be the problem. And besides, I have a two prong flasher AND auto canceling as well. But that as they say, is another story .

[blue83ranger]

That's dissapointing.
While trying to figure this out i noticed while the key is on, both front blinkers stay on as driving lights and like i said before if i hold the lever over to turn one side on everything flashes except the rear blinkers and the indicator lights don't come on at all, ever. So my question is what controls having the front lights glowing while not having the blinkers on, then turns the indicatior lights on while having them on? are there 2 different circuits going to the front blinkers?

[crazy steve]

...are there 2 different circuits going to the front blinkers?

Yes. The 'standard' models came with front running lights as well as turns. If your aftermarket signals have single-filiment lamps, they can only be used as either one or the other, not both.

You should have two wires going to each front signal; a blue wire to each (running lights, which will come on with the ignition switch), and a chocolate (left turn) and dark green (right turn). There is no ground wire, as the factory lights get their ground through the mount/chassis. At the rear signals, you only have the chocolate and dark green wires; grounding is done with a black wire from the mounting stud to a black wire in the harness.

What it sounds like is going on is the PO used single-filiment signals, but connected both wires (one of which is a ground wire) out of the lights to both the running light and turn circuits, causing a 'backfeed' when you turn on the signals. Disconnect the blue wire from the lights, and take the light wire that was connected to the blue and connect that to the chassis or a black wire (preferably a black wire). Do the same thing at the rear signals; make sure that one wire out of each light is connected to ground (chassis or black wire), the other wire should be connected to either the chocolate or dark green for left/right. This should at least clear the problem of the other lights flashing (tail, oil, etc) and may fix the turns.

Typically, aftermarket turn lights will be single filiment and have two wires coming out of them. If one is black, that should be the ground wire. If both are black, either one can be used for ground. If the light is dual-filiment (turn and running light), it should have three wires coming out and the black will be ground.

[blue83ranger]

I figured it out!!! First, the front blinkers did just have a single filament. I hooked them up the way you said, then nothing would blink at all. I had the switch unbolted from the handlebars and i had the right side on but nothing was happening so i walked around to that side and all of a sudden the right side only was blinking, so i went over to the switch and turned on the left side and the right side kept blinking so i picked up the switch and everything stopped. So, i moved the wiring around and sometimes the right side would work or nothing would. So, i took the guts of the switch apart and all 3 wires going to the switch were broke clean off with the soldier still stuck to the ends of the wires. So, i'm pretty excited about finally figuring this out, and i'm just hoping this is the only problem and that it didn't somehow mess something else up. Now the bad part is i could never figure out how to soldier. I've seen other people do it but it just never worked out for me. I have the right soldier, the wires are clean, and i'm pretty sure everthing's hot enough, the soldier just rolls right off whatever i'm trying to soldier. I'll see if i can find someone who knows how to do it. Or i may just see how much a switch is off ebay. But the switch on the bike looks like new. As soon as i get it fixed i'll report back again. and thanks for everyone's help. Now the bike just needs both plastic side covers which seem to be nonexistent, unless i'm just looking in the wrong places. thanks again for all the help.

[natemoen]

Where in IL are you located?

[Danny Crawdad]

While you're removing all evidence of the previous owner's imprudence, you would probably be doing yourself a favor to both check all the wiring harnesses and connectors for corrosion/splices/whatever, and disassemble those brakes (including tearing down the master cylinders and calipers, they are easy) and make sure they're up to snuff.

You can get those side covers on eBay for a decent price if you watch, and I bet someone here has a set they could sell you. The left side covers are the most expensive, because they are regularly broken by people who don't understand that there's a key lock on the bottom . I found a good, used, matching set with OEM emblems and good paint, no cracks for around a hundred bucks.

The left side switch you can source from eBay also, or user andreashweiss on these forums can probably hook you up for less. In a pinch, MikesXS has them for $51. There are a few on eBay for around $40.

[blue83ranger]

I'm about 20 minutes south of Saint Louis, MO

I found a set of side covers on ebay, so they're on their way. and i already got the "new" horn from ebay. I just need to fix the blinker switch and find some rubber grommets for the upper tabs for the side covers and it should be good to go.

[GLoweVA]

MikeXS has the side cover rubber dampers. They say they're for a 650 but the part numbers match.
http://www.mikesxs.net/product/02-6501.html
PN# 2H7-21717-00-00
(for a 79 standard)

As for the soldering on the turn switch, I've had to do that too.
Those joints are 30yrs old and are a PITA.
I had to go get a soldering gun so it would produce enough heat to get the wire and the tab hot enough.
That's the trick to a good solder joint.
Unfortunately, it also gets hot enought to start melting the plastic that the tab is in too.

[blue83ranger]

I got the dampers and switch from mike's. The problem with the switch, or question i have about it is that the plugs are different, which isn't a big deal but there's an extra wire, a yellow one with a black stripe, does anyone know what it's for? I matched up all the other colors. And the switches themselves are identical no extra ones.

[JasonRedbeard]

Possibly a redundant ground?

[motoman]

Control switches need grounded........and handlebars do that, unless like in my Venturers case I installed fully adjustable Heli-Bars that come powdercoated black......yup, lost the needed ground.....temporarily.

[fredintoon]

- - - Now the bad part is i could never figure out how to soldier. I've seen other people do it but it just never worked out for me. I have the right soldier, the wires are clean, and i'm pretty sure everthing's hot enough, the soldier just rolls right off whatever i'm trying to soldier. - - -

Hi blue,
one component you didn't mention:-
FLUX
Comes in a little flat round can, looks like grease, tastes like acid.
After you get everything squeaky clean, slather the joint with flux then dip the soldering iron into the flux, run new solder onto the iron and hit the joint with it.

[ViperRon]

ACID man! Really?

I know now Fred has tempted you to taste it for yourself but don't. While tasting enough of it may solve all your problems quickly a simple sampling may give you intermittant problems in the future.

Sorry Fredintoon just could not resist when you said taste I know have had the taste of fumes in my mouth before.



Actually do your soldering in an area with air flow as even the fumes are not good for sinus or lungs. I will say flux is a nessisary requirement to a good solder job. Along with the flux you need a hot Iron like maybe a 30 watt with a good sharp tip. One of the little 5 watt irons will slow cook the componets before the soldier melts. The advantage is you can hit it quick and tend not to melt componets or cook the soldier.

(Keep in mind the hot Iron if left too long will do the same only quicker)

When soldier has been exposed to heat over a period of time its effective bonding is reduced. Once it looses the shine and develops a chalky appearance it will create a cold (High resistance) soldier joint. Clean the surface first, a little flux and the old soldier will dissolve where you can wipe off wires or Iron tip with dry rag or heat resitant brush. Its a good Idea to (tin) the iron and connection points before trying to join them as they stick easier. To tin them put a small bit of flux on area heat it apply soldier and wipe with dry rag quickly leaving a shinny surface on the wire or Iron. I have seen many people melt a bubble of soldier on wire and sling it to clean the excess but the soldier can put your eye out and worse mess up paint on the bike.

With a contact point, a (small) heat resistant or wire brush works to clean surface.

Hope all this helps