Front fork modification

[crazy steve]

It should also be pointed out that the FJ fork brace is a OEM item, not something that you need to add...

[jetmechmarty]

I recently picked up a Moto Guzzi for my "to do" list. It's a '98 model. The forks are huge, with dampening and rebound adjustments on them. The XS is stone age by comparison, but still, I love it!

[sthomag]

I recently picked up a Moto Guzzi for my "to do" list. It's a '98 model. The forks are huge, with dampening and rebound adjustments on them. The XS is stone age by comparison, but still, I love it!

Be sure to sign up for the wildguzzi.com forum. Lots of great info on Guzzis. Guzzisti are even cheaper than XS11 owners. Harper's Moto Guzzi in Missouri is a great source for parts.

[jetmechmarty]

Thanx! I'll get on that!

[daveyg]

U could also possibly try drilling and tapping the fork, and using a set screw... Not the most ideal, but would probably help rigidity significantly...

[DeanR]

With the Specials having a different axle location, do they maybe exhibit less flex than the Standards? Since I put the Tkat brace on years ago, my front end has felt solid.

[daveyg]

The specials probably feel less wobbly, due to the geometric difference, where the axle centerline is in front of the forks, it increases the distance between the tire contact point and the steering head pivot line. Imagine a line going thru the steering head down to the ground, then compare it's point to the point where the tire contacts the pavement. Elongating the distance between the two will result in a more solid feel in straight lines, but less rigidity when cornering, hence most newer sport bikes use steeper steering head angles, and less forward offset to the forks from the steering head, makes the bike more solid in the twisties... U get the idea.

[cywelchjr]

The specials probably feel less wobbly, due to the geometric difference, where the axle centerline is in front of the forks, it increases the distance between the tire contact point and the steering head pivot line. Imagine a line going thru the steering head down to the ground, then compare it's point to the point where the tire contacts the pavement. Elongating the distance between the two will result in a more solid feel in straight lines, but less rigidity when cornering, hence most newer sport bikes use steeper steering head angles, and less forward offset to the forks from the steering head, makes the bike more solid in the twisties... U get the idea.

The distance between the axle and the steering head pivot line is because of the design of the triple trees and such against how they look, in the same place on the specials as it is on the standards. It's only DESIGNED to look like it's stretched out without actually being so. If you want it to actually be that way, you need to use standard trees with the special forks (which as fredintoon will tell you is something sidecar owners do for better handling with a sidecar). It might be easier to make the special clamp on both sides though, and now that I've seen the concept, I'm looking at my spare forks with a gleam in my eye (spare parts are great for this type of stuff, I can do the job offline and then put them on AFTER the work is complete . I'm thinking about having it built up on both side so I can make it clamp on the bottom with a split. Just trying to figure out on a split on front or back, or on the bottom?