OK, not a rocket scientist here but, I have OEM coils, my understanding of coils is two windings of wire around a conductor in a heat sink of some kind? One is a charge coil, small # of windings, the other is a discharge coil, large # of windings. So, my question is, if both windings are intact, how is the efficiently changed Is it more the grounding, or old ign wire's, or what. I don't want to spend $$$ now, but would rather get my current OEM coils working up to standard, any thoughts
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Coils
1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8Tags: None
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I found this site today when I was trying to get some better info on why we see different types of coils and ignitions. It's on the long side but a good read that will enlighten most people on how our ignitions, and others, work and why.
http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/howig.htmCan't beat the smell of gas & oil
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The usual problem is that the insulate separating the two coils degrades and then the two sides of the coil short out internally. Or the wires degrade and the circuit opens and current no longer passes through the wires.
Other than cleaning up all the connections before thw coils and putting new plug wires in there is nothing else you can do except replace the coil.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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You can also have issues with the spark plug wires' connection internally on the coil, as well as bad wires. Some guys have had success replacing the wires, but it's a bit of a PITA.... look here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=137
This isn't something I would recommend, but it is a possibility. But as Nate said, if the coils are failing, the coil is toast....Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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So
So, if I have this right, it is the internal coil of wires that lose there insulation and short inside the windings that cause the breakdown of output i would guess over heating would cause this over time Mine both work, but I have seen two plugs on one coil seem to foul quicker then the other two. I will break down and buy new coils and wires soon, just hate to keep throughing $$$ at it, I didn't care when they $$ seemed to grow on trees1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
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There's a number of things that can cause reduced output; yes, if the primary and/or secondary coils internal to the coil start to go bad, that will cause reduced output. That's easy enough to check; simply put an ohmmeter across the two windings and see if they meet spec. The primary windings should check between 1.35 and 1.65 ohm, the secondary should be 12-18K ohms; above or below these numbers means a failing coil. It is important to check the secondary winding with the spark plug ends removed; those ends are supposed to be 5K ohms each (+/- 10%). These simply unscrew off the wires, and are known for poor connections where they screw in. If any ends check out of spec, replace them; they're cheap enough at about $3-5 each. With the ends installed, you should see no more than about 29K ohms across the two plug wires.Last edited by crazy steve; 12-10-2011, 06:05 PM.Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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plug ends
Yea, I have all new ends, NGK 5 ohms, did the 1/4" clip on the wires. The bike runs OK, some poping, not much now that I turned the mix screws out 1/4 turn (thanks Phil on both the mix screws and plug caps) I just have two plugs that foul quicker then the other two 32 year old coils / wires $$$$ in my future, not much else I haven't replaced
Originally posted by crazy steve View PostThere's a number of things that can cause reduced output; yes, if the primary and/or secondary coils internal to the coil start to go bad, that will cause reduced output. That's easy enough to check; simply put an ohmmeter across the two windings and see if they meet spec. The primary windings should check between 1.35 and 1.65 ohm, the secondary should be 12-18K ohms; above or below these numbers means a failing coil. It is important to check the secondary winding with the spark plug ends removed; those ends are supposed to be 5K ohms each (+/- 10%). These simply unscrew off the wires, and are known for poor connections where they screw in. If any ends check out of spec, replace them; they're cheap enough at about $3-5 each. With the ends installed, you should see no more than about 29K ohms across the two plug wires.1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
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1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
Comment
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Those 79 Special carbs have "richer" emulsion tubes (less air mixture holes) in the center two carbs to try to keep those cylinders cooler. Just thinking maybe that's why the plugs look darker.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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Thanks
Thanks, I did not know that I am not sure I put them back in the right carbs as I soaked them all over night in one container, then reinstalled everything, thinking they were all the same, I will check the next rebuild
Originally posted by bikerphil View PostThose 79 Special carbs have "richer" emulsion tubes (less air mixture holes) in the center two carbs to try to keep those cylinders cooler. Just thinking maybe that's why the plugs look darker.1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
1980 XS1100 Special
1990 V Max
1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
1974 CB750-Four
Past/pres Car's
1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8
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