Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Tips on installing a whole engine?

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • #1

    Tips on installing a whole engine?

    I just purchased an '82 XJ 1100 motor from a member in Utah and wondering how to put it in the frame without breaking something (like my back). The old motor I took out a piece at a time and it was a job just getting out the lower by myself. Is it just 2 guys grunting and straining, or is there a more sophisticated way to slide it in gracefully.

    "XJkid"
    aka, Guy Lytle

    1982 XJ 1100, 15,000 miles
    "Galaxy" 1982 XJ1100J, 1983 XV handlebars, new fusebox, homemade SS wind screen and SS muffler heat shields, homemade grab bar extension and luggage rack. XS750 140 mph speedo, '81 Venture oil cooler, V-Max ACCT, Yahman YICS Eliminator, 1st and 2nd gear Dremel fix.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Depending on how complete the bike is, you can lay the frame over the motor (when it is on its side) then tip the whole frame upright. I did it by myself that way, but I had a bare frame.
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

    Comment

    • #3
      I find it much easier to install an engine with the middle drive unit off, no chance of ripping the rubber boot and it should quickly drop into place that way. I put a metal pipe thru the front motor mount holes and grab the rear of the engine with the other hand, 1 person per side. The oil filter cup seems to get in the way so removing that makes things easier. If you are worried about dinging up the paint on the frame, wrap it with some cardboard and tape. Good luck!
      2H7 (79) owned since '89
      3H3 owned since '06

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

      ☮

      Comment

      • #4
        +1 on laying everything on it's side. That's the method I've used to get the motors both in and out and seems to produce the lowest amount of back strain with the least amount jockeying. It is a bit clumsy with an assembled bike, but still doable. Oh yeah; installing from the left side of the bike has worked best for me.
        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

        '78E original owner - resto project
        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
        '82 XJ rebuild project
        '80SG restified, red SOLD
        '79F parts...
        '81H more parts...

        Other current bikes:
        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

        Comment

        • #5
          IMO, on its side looks to make things difficult. I'm only 5'11" @ 175lbs. and what I did was put the motor/tranny on one of those roll-around stools (the round one), rolled beside the scoot on the RIGHT side, worked it across(have filter housing off) and once output shaft was close, rotated u-joint to the right letting it catch on the round inner lip of the u-joint flange. Doing this WILL keep those in place while lifting a bit and scooting it across the frame. Once it drops in place just bar up the motor a bit to line up the lower motor mount holes.......painless and was a ten minute job........This is easily all done while bike is on the CENTER stand. Your choice.....either way motor goes in from right side.....
          81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

          Comment

          • #6
            BTW, if you remove the coils from top of frame, it gives you more "wiggle" room with more valve cover clearance.
            81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

            Comment

            • #7
              Did this 3 weeks ago - removed oil filter and wrapped the engine with a chain. Bolted the chain together and hung it from an engine hoist so it is balanced and hung at the right angle... then just eased it into the frame lifting and prying where needed. The engine hoist did all the heavy lifting. It squeezed around the driveshaft boot, then put the boot springs on after driveshaft bolts tight. Took about 30 minutes.
              When the horse is dead, dismount.

              Bagapotomus - '80G Attempted Rescue, '78 Engine, Vetter Bags and Trunk.

              Comment

              • #8
                +1 on motoman's method. I've done it that way a few times. It' pretty easy if you have someone to help you.

                I would add to remove the ballast resistor so you don't break it (I broke mine the first time) and be sure the driveshaft boot is well out of the way so you don't tear it.

                Twist it out and twist it back in on the RIGHT side.




                BTW........wear some gloves. It saves losing some skin.
                Greg

                Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                ― Albert Einstein

                80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                The list changes.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Thanks for all of your input. The collective knowledge is invaluable. Although I don't mind working on the bike, I would rather be riding.

                  Guy
                  "Galaxy" 1982 XJ1100J, 1983 XV handlebars, new fusebox, homemade SS wind screen and SS muffler heat shields, homemade grab bar extension and luggage rack. XS750 140 mph speedo, '81 Venture oil cooler, V-Max ACCT, Yahman YICS Eliminator, 1st and 2nd gear Dremel fix.

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    when i did my engine swap i wrestled to whole blown up engine out and my good engine i took the head and cylinders off to make it not so heavy and awkward. definitely remove the oil filter case and i just tuck my drive shaft boot behind the bracket as best i could. and cant remember what side i installed on. two people got it in and bolted up in bout 20 minutes
                    1980 xs1100sg

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      2 guys and a gal person job...

                      2 guys grab the engine, lean it on the frame from the left side, one holds it, the other guy goes to the other side and they position the engine in.

                      The gal holds the frame/rest of the bike so it doesnt fall over from the front by the handlebars.

                      7 minute job till all the bolts are in.

                      PS: Dont try to do it by yourself... you will brake something.
                      If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
                      (stole that one from I-dont-know-who)

                      Comment

                      Previous template Next
                      Working...
                      X