Gas in oil check?

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Ok, everything is working fine now. I had "one" time that I turned the petcocks to prim accadently for about 1 /2 hour after I had changed the oil / filter I have sence blocked of the prim at the tank and removed those lines, now it flows through tank screens, through run or resurve position, to both L / R, octy "IN" (hooked to intake and working correctly), from octy to two inline filters to carb "T's", through new needle valve screens, then controlled by new XV920 tipped needles, so the dreaded "CARB FUEL INTO MOTOR DUMP" should be gone forever I want to know is there a "SURE" way to tell if "ANY" gas got into my oil the one time it flooded slighty when I left it on prim (no gas came out of the air box, and I just cracked the throttle half way, turned off the choke, and cranked for about 3 sec and she fired right up The sight glass wont help me as I didnt do a refrence before this happend thanks

[natemoen]

Send an oil sample in for testing.....

Other than that, when in doubt, change it out. Oil is cheap, engines are not.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Your are right!

Your right I have heard on here, everything from dipping a stick in the oil and trying to light it, to a "smell check", but the only way to be sure is to do anouther $30.00 oil / filter change I can rember when $30.00 was chump change not these days

Send an oil sample in for testing.....

Other than that, when in doubt, change it out. Oil is cheap, engines are not.

[GLoweVA]

Dilution is the solution

You may be able to get away with not changing the filter out, just drain off the excess oil out of it.
With 3+qts of new oil, any leftover gas that may be inside the engine will definitely get diluted enough that it shouldn't be an issue at that point.

Plus, you've already ran the engine for a few mins, so that might have 'burnt off'/evaporated most of it anyway.

My 2Cents

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Filter

Yea, I was considering that, but the fram filter with botb O rings is only $4.99 at Advanced Auto, so cheap insurance I guess It is the $22.00 for 20w50Valveoline Motorcycle oil or $40.00 for Mobil 1, that grips me I know many use cheaper car oil, but, even a $22.00, the right Oil is cheap and motors / clutches, are not I may switch to 10w40 for the Florida winter 80 deg. days but 45 deg. nights sometimes)

(are not

You may be able to get away with not changing the filter out, just drain off the excess oil out of it.
With 3+qts of new oil, any leftover gas that may be inside the engine will definitely get diluted enough that it shouldn't be an issue at that point.

Plus, you've already ran the engine for a few mins, so that might have 'burnt off'/evaporated most of it anyway.

My 2Cents

[MaximPhil]

Yea, I was considering that, but the fram filter with botb O rings is only $4.99 at Advanced Auto, so cheap insurance I guess It is the $22.00 for 20w50Valveoline Motorcycle oil or $40.00 for Mobil 1, that grips me I know many use cheaper car oil, but, even a $22.00, the right Oil is cheap and motors / clutches, are not I may switch to 10w40 for the Florida winter 80 deg. days but 45 deg. nights sometimes)

(are not

Hi OEM4ME,
Watch for increased oil consumption if you try 10w40. Mine slurped 10/40 but uses hardly any 20/50.
Phil

[cywelchjr]

Yea, I was considering that, but the fram filter with botb O rings is only $4.99 at Advanced Auto, so cheap insurance I guess It is the $22.00 for 20w50Valveoline Motorcycle oil or $40.00 for Mobil 1, that grips me I know many use cheaper car oil, but, even a $22.00, the right Oil is cheap and motors / clutches, are not I may switch to 10w40 for the Florida winter 80 deg. days but 45 deg. nights sometimes)

(are not

41 deg nights are not low enough according to the manual for 10w40, as it's the upper temp that matters and 20w40 is required if the temps go above 49 deg. The engine passages and clearances on these bikes were not designed for 10w oil and it will slip by the rings and such an get consumed. 20w40 one would think might help but that upper number isn't the thickness at temp, it's how much protection the oil provides at working temps, it's still as THIN as 20 weight oil, just as 10w40 when hot is as thin as 10 weight oil, not as thin as 40 weight oil.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

I dont think so, just trying to help, not start anouther "Oil war"

"OK . . .What does a 5W-30 do that an SAE 30 won't?
When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear."

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

41 deg nights are not low enough according to the manual for 10w40, as it's the upper temp that matters and 20w40 is required if the temps go above 49 deg. The engine passages and clearances on these bikes were not designed for 10w oil and it will slip by the rings and such an get consumed. 20w40 one would think might help but that upper number isn't the thickness at temp, it's how much protection the oil provides at working temps, it's still as THIN as 20 weight oil, just as 10w40 when hot is as thin as 10 weight oil, not as thin as 40 weight oil.

[cywelchjr]

You know, I'm not going to argue this one further, cause amsoil uses their terms differently than anyone else in the industry. All the other oil manufacturers I've looked up say different, that the lower number is the actual thickness, and the higher number is the protection at higher temp. This holds true for tests I've seen performed, and 10w30 at full temp is thinner than 30w at the same high temp. Just as 20w50 is NOT as thick at operating temp as 50w oil, it isn't even close. Sorry, but while Amsoil does make some high quality oils, they also tend to tell things in a way that is just not true. That said, 10w30 will provide the same PROTECTION as the 30 weight, but it will be thinner at the higher temp. Try it, pour some at 100c from one cup to another and compare, you will be amazed at the difference between the two.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

20w50

Thanks, I will stick with the 20w50, can't hurt in south west florida, don't ride at night much anyway

Hi OEM4ME,
Watch for increased oil consumption if you try 10w40. Mine slurped 10/40 but uses hardly any 20/50.
Phil

[bikerphil]

20W50 is just fine for our sub-tropical climate. 10W40 is too thin, JMHO.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

+1

+1 Phill, I know it is a little heaver then the heavest Yamaha recomended 20w40 but not much, and she is 30+ years old, not as tight in there as in 1979

20W50 is just fine for our sub-tropical climate. 10W40 is too thin, JMHO.

[tom clisham]

synthetic (?)

Same old question. you mentioned mobil 1 . A lot of riders say that synthetic oils can cause clutch problems. I've never used synthetic in an xs, so don't know.
I've heard enough about it , though, to cause me to stick to organic oils.
strictly 20-50.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Oil

I know Oil is the most misunderstod and possably the most importaint fluid in our bikes. 1st, synthetic oil is 100% organic oil. The differance is in the refining. Standard 40 weight oil has an "advarage"molecule weight of 40, meaning the smaller molecules "burn off" and the larger monecules form "sludge" while "synthetic" 40 weight oil has only 40 weight molecule's, no burn off, no sludge, and hence, the higher price of refineing it Is it worth the price in our bikes, I dont think so, we change the oil every 2000 miles or so (even more so when we think gas might have got into the oil) and never give it a chance to build up.

Same old question. you mentioned mobil 1 . A lot of riders say that synthetic oils can cause clutch problems. I've never used synthetic in an xs, so don't know.
I've heard enough about it , though, to cause me to stick to organic oils.
strictly 20-50.