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  • Plasti-Dip Questions

    I'm trying to decide if Plasti-Dip is the way to go, or should I just spring $ for new(er) ones.
    The PO had wrapped them in tape and some kind of sealer.


    So, my questions are:
    What's the consistancy of the Dip? Paint/syrup/thicker/thinner ?
    Is it brush on?
    Does it dry smooth? In other words, is it gonna look like a paper mache project?
    I want something that'll look good at least close to OEM if possible.

    Thanks for your input.
    Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

    80G (Green paint(PO idea))
    The Green Monster
    K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
    Got him in '04.
    bald tire & borrowing parts

    80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
    Scarlet
    K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
    Got her in '11
    Ready for the twisties!

    81H (previously CPMaynard's)
    Hugo
    Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
    Cold weather ride

  • #2
    It is syrup like. Pretty close to pvc cement consistency.
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

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    • #3
      Well, first off, how bad are the cracks? I've seen sets that had a lot of surface cracks, but none that went through, so those will still be good to go unless you just want a cosmetic improvement.

      Now, admittedly I haven't had to 'dip' a set of intake manifolds, but I have used plasti-dip in the past and it worked the best if you actually dipped the item. So I'd mask off the interior surfaces/gasket faces then dip all the rest; you might have to trim off any 'drips' with a razor blade after it's cured, but that's a minor thing...
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
      '82 XJ rebuild project
      '80SG restified, red SOLD
      '79F parts...
      '81H more parts...

      Other current bikes:
      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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      • #4
        I used Plasti Dip

        I used the Plasti Dip spray on product purchased at Ace Hardware. Worked well for getting the bike started, and looks OK. I cleaned and masked/filled the openings and sprayed the product on. http://jimphoto.freeprohost.com/Yamaha/yam014.JPGYou can check out the finished project at that link. I did buy new for $60.00 on eBay, and they are really NEW, and will be better for my project. You can look at my project at http://jimphoto.freeprohost.com/Yamaha if you are interested. Lots of photos and yam013 or so is where you can see the carb mounts I started with, etc.

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        • #5
          Hey George,

          I used the Spray on kind, it was rather thin, and even after something like 10 coats, it still didn't fill in the cracks completely. I've read that folks had to apply many coats before they attained the cosmetic look they wanted. I haven't tried the "dip" kind, but would suspect it would be thicker and fill in the cracks better like Steve stated. These things are double walled, you'll definitely need to tape mask off the ends to prevent the dip from getting INSIDE....they are actually quite smooth in there!

          T.C.
          T. C. Gresham
          81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
          79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
          History shows again and again,
          How nature points out the folly of men!

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          • #6
            I replaced my boots a year or two ago but before that my OEM boots had major cracks in all. I used liquid electrical insulaton that came in a small can with a brush on the cap. I guess it is kind of like plastidip. Worked pretty well. Still, I did not have any performance problems with the cracks in the boots since it is an aluminum pipe just about all the way through. I did it mostly for cosmetics.
            Mike Giroir
            79 XS-1100 Special

            Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

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            • #7
              i have a good set if you need them
              careful what you wish for.........you might get it

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              • #8
                I wrapped mine in black silicone tape, the type that sticks to itself when stretched, as hawked by the late Billy Mays (except I've been using the stuff long before Billy told me I needed to). Then a coat of low gloss black engine enamel and they look practically new.
                My local hardware used to carry it but no longer do, however I last bought a few rolls at Home Depot a couple of years ago as I like to keep the stuff on hand, it is quite usefull, it's kinda like Frank's Red Hot; "I put that sh*t on everthing!"
                '78 E "Stormbringer"

                Purrs like a kitten, roars like a lion, runs like a gazelle (being chased by a cheetah).

                pics http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...tormbringer45/

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