having fork dive problems. new seals, oil two years ago. feels like the forks move too freely for me. been reading threads on this problem and found lots of options. just wondering which would be the best way to go? i don't ride too agressive. of course it's an xj with air forks that i think leak. air that is.thanks for your input.
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wondering which way to go
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Make some preload spacers out of some 3/4" PVC pipe. Start with about 3/4" long for each fork and make sure you use a washer between the PVC and the spring.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
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hi bcknblkbird,
id check the oil level in the forks
if its a dampening problem,
not sure what model forks u have,
but adding a spacer to increase the pre load will affect
the sag on the forks, which wouldnt be a problem if the
sag is out.
if u do a search on youtube theres a cpl of
good videos of suspension set up, there on a modern bike
but the principles are all the same.pete
new owner of
08 gen2 hayabusa
former owner
1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
zrx carbs
18mm float height
145 main jets
38 pilots
slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]
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Switching to a heavier weight oil will help a bit as well as increasing the oil level by 25cc. If you have the $$ the correct way to reduce dive and to improve overall handling would be to get new stiffer springs. 30 yr old springs get weak but can be compensated for somewhat with the addition of the preload spacers as I mentioned.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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We all know what 'Ol Guilty is gonna say ...
Trash 'em, and swap on some Hayabusa forks and triple tree ... Basically a direct swap except for a tapered roller bearing, all you have to do is trim a few mm off the inner diameter and youre set.
~I had a dream last night that I was banned from this site for some reason...~Jay
Guilty Ones M.C.
Manassas, Va.
1980 Standard G
2001 CBR 929RR
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Banned ??? I hope not.
Jay, I wouldn't worry about it. Even as a purist, I kinda like the 'fab' guys input on modifying things. It gives me a different perspective on my bike.
Plus when it comes to figuring out what might work, you guys have 'been there, done that' so, at least, I value your input.Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!
80G (Green paint(PO idea))
The Green Monster
K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
Got him in '04.
bald tire & borrowing parts
80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
Scarlet
K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
Got her in '11
Ready for the twisties!
81H (previously CPMaynard's)
Hugo
Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
Cold weather ride
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It does not matter which way the Progressive springs go in, they function the same either way, close wound end at the top or bottom. I would up the fork oil weight to 15W or 20W also. With this setup, you won't have to fool with air pressure ever again.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
☮
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Originally posted by GLoweVA View PostJay, I wouldn't worry about it. Even as a purist, I kinda like the 'fab' guys input on modifying things. It gives me a different perspective on my bike.
Plus when it comes to figuring out what might work, you guys have 'been there, done that' so, at least, I value your input.
Why thank you sir ...~Jay
Guilty Ones M.C.
Manassas, Va.
1980 Standard G
2001 CBR 929RR
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Jay, the only thing I don't understand with some of those that say do that, is putting on haybusa forks and hardtailing the back. So you improve the front end, and then destroy the back end handling. It totally makes sense to me if you did the forks and did a mono shock setup or something like that, and even doing chain drive (although I really think there are better platforms out there if you really want chain drive, but that's just my opinion) has it's level of sense. I can even believe it or not see the draw of the jockey shift (not for me, but I can see where some are drawn to it).
It might not be something we would do ourselves, or something we would want to own, but if it's done well, we WILL admire the job and pat you on the back for a job well done. If you screw it up, we WILL talk bad about you too though. It goes both ways.
I don't know what yours was like before you started, but now I've heard some things described that say it may actually be one of the ones best chopped to keep it on the road (cracked frame parts make it one of those). To me, the minute you talk frame damage you have to consider that it might be time to talk bobber. Yes, I would consider doing a bobber if I had one that had that type of damage.Cy
1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
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I had a completely sacked front end last year. I was ignoring the problem until I dumped the bike.
Mine is fixed and fixed good. I installed the Race-Tech Gold Valve emulators and custom wound springs from Traxxion Dynamics. I also installed new shocks with correct springs for my weight. The difference is nothing short of amazing.
I just got some tuning advice from Mike Wiley of Race-Tech when I was at the Barber track. I'm sure now it's going to be much better after taking the tuning advice.
I could have achieved the same results (or better) by having Traxxion Dynamics do the entire set-up. I would have saved a lot of $$$$ and headache.
In the end, I am extremely happy with my new suspension! I understand this may be too extreme for most here, but I like the bike and enjoy riding it a lot. This is the only way to go, short of what BikerPhil did. (FJ forks)
I have posted the details of my enhancement here before.Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
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Marty, what kind of Wiley tuning advice did you get and will you share?-- Scott
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♬
2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
1979 XS1100F: parts
2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.
♬
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I followed the supplied instructions during installation. I drilled the holes out in the damper rod. There were four of them. My ride is pretty harsh. I can ride aggressively, but I'm not soaking up the bumps as I should.
Mr. Wiley told me I need at least six holes in the damper rod. I'm not moving enough fluid. He gave me a new top piece to the emulator and told me to drill two holes it it and give it a try. He also supplied me with some more springs. Importantly, I learned that the emulator is set at three turns and each half turn should make a big difference. This was not in the instruction sheet as I recall. He told me first I need to move more fluid, try the new top, and if it isn't satisfactory, drill two more holes in the damper rod. (it needs to be ruined or removed from all control) At first service, he recommended 15W fork oil.
Marty (in Germany)Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
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Thanks, Marty!
Traxxion Dynamics will do the whole enchilada or would I have to buy the emulators ahead of time and send them along with the forks?-- Scott
_____
♬
2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
1979 XS1100F: parts
2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.
♬
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