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  • getting turn signals working

    ok....so here's whats going with the electrical on my bike...

    when i first got it, the "signal" fuse was blowing every day or two. at this time, i was having a lot of trouble learning how NOT to kill the bike by letting the clutch out too fast. killing the bike was often accompanied by this particular fuse blowing, which killed the tach, gas gauge, neutral light, brake lights. i also blew the main fuse once (when i decelerated turning onto my street) but haven't had this problem more than once. i don't believe the problem with the main fuse is related to problem with the signal fuse. also, when i got around to changing the (filthy, old) oil about a month ago, the problem ALMOST went away, and i've only blown 1 or 2 signal fuses since then (also the bike runs better in general, obviously). it usually happens when i'm cruising city streets and then hop on a freeway going fast for a short time, then back onto streets...the fuse blows somewhere on the freeway.

    my turn signals don't work/aren't hooked up, and my main goal is to get them working in the next week. it seems the PO's have done a lot tinkering...the rear signal lites are currently functioning as brake/tail lights (lights up and stays lit when key is turned on, gets brighter when brakes are applied), and the rectangular brake light has been removed. the red plastic light covers are also MELTING (pic below). they get hot to the touch, and the red plastic is all deformed on the ends. the headlight is fine and works at both dim/bright settings.

    also, if this helps, when i flip the turn signal switch (on L handlebar) left and right, the L & R indicators on the pilot box light up correctly, but don't blink. it also cancels just fine when i push the switch in.

    i have a windjammer V fairing on the front, and i need to get those signals working as well.

    if you read my previous thread "help a dumb noob with his brakes," then you already know that i'm pretty clueless about this stuff...i hope i have been clear enough about whats going on. let me know what you want to see and i'll provide pics. i'd post them right now but i don't know what we need to be looking at.

    80 XS1100G

  • #2
    Find someone with a volt meter, and have them test the system voltage at 3500 RPM. Should be no more than 13.5 volts. CZ

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    • #3
      i've got one...how do i check it?
      80 XS1100G

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      • #4
        Hi Matt,
        you need to get a multi-meter and a wiring diagram and go over the entire harness looking for everywhere the dreaded PO has been at it and put all those alleged improvements back to stock.
        Some pointers:-
        The stock flasher unit needs two 27Watt bulbs or it won't flash, the lamps will just come on and stay on.
        Any 2-prong electronic flasher will work smaller capacity bulbs but the self canceller won't work with it.
        Your rear signals that are currently in stop/tail mode ain't stock and so most likely have automotive 22W/6W bulbs in them so your stock flasher unit won't work them anyway.
        A fuse usually don't blow unless the circuit it protects is shorted out. Look for bared wires touching the frame.
        Fred Hill, S'toon
        XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
        "The Flying Pumpkin"

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        • #5
          OK, first is that for the flasher to work, it has to have the correct load on it, IE, the stock turn signal lights or something of the same wattage. Since you do not have the front turn signals wire up, the flasher will not work.

          Also, your electrical system has no care in the world about if your killing the bike by dumping the clutch to fast, or if your on the back roads or the freeway. The voltage will change by the engine RPM, but its getting up there on the street just as on the highway.

          Now to figure your system out, as Fred stated, you need to work this thing out piece by piece. What ever fuse is blowing, one of the systems it serves is shorting to ground somewhere.
          Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

          When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

          81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
          80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


          Previously owned
          93 GSX600F
          80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
          81 XS1100 Special
          81 CB750 C
          80 CB750 C
          78 XS750

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          • #6
            You've got several things going on here....

            First, you'll have to reinstall a separate tail/brake light if you want functioning turns. Using the 'turns' for brake lights will cause all the turns to light up if the turn signal circuits are hooked up front/rear along with the brake circuit unless you use a 'trailer convertor' to go from a three-lamp input to a two lamp output at the rear lights.

            Blowing fuses could be any number of things.... Still have the stock fuse panel? That could be the problem, as well as multiple dirty/poor connections causing various bit to draw too much current. I'd start by tracing/cleaning the circuits and their connections. Some help here: http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33254

            Lastly, the melted lights. You have some cheapy aftermarket 'accessory lights' and this is typical of that type. As originally sold, they come with 'special' small diameter lamps so they're not so close to the lens, but those bulbs don't last long (and are hard to get replacements for), so owners install 'standard' lamps. These then melt the lens.... The fix is replacement with a larger light assembly.
            Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

            '78E original owner - resto project
            '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
            '82 XJ rebuild project
            '80SG restified, red SOLD
            '79F parts...
            '81H more parts...

            Other current bikes:
            '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
            '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
            '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
            Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
            Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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            • #7
              You know, I had a funky thing happen recently. I was blowing fuses like crazy. I finally traced it down to the foot brake switch. It had shorted internally, making the return spring live with +12v. When I hit the brake, spring hit the frame, the fuse blew. That same circuit is for the neutral, turn, tach and WTF else...drove me nuts figuring out which circuit was in trouble..

              Just a thought.
              Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by DAVINCI View Post
                You know, I had a funky thing happen recently. I was blowing fuses like crazy. I finally traced it down to the foot brake switch. It had shorted internally, making the return spring live with +12v. When I hit the brake, spring hit the frame, the fuse blew. That same circuit is for the neutral, turn, tach and WTF else...drove me nuts figuring out which circuit was in trouble..

                Just a thought.
                I bet THAT was fun trying to track down!
                1980 XS850SG - Sold
                1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                -H. Ford

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                • #9
                  i can almost guarantee one of your probs is in the turn sig switch at the handle bar. dismantle the switch, clean out the corrosion and resolder the broken wire or wires. i had the same prob once.
                  testing 1-2-3

                  1980 1100 mns

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                  • #10
                    It was freakin weird, I'd hit the brake and loose the tach. Then I would find out I didn't have signals or neutral. It was a ball of confusion.
                    Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!

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                    • #11
                      You just have to put that old used oil back in the bike and everything will be back to normal!
                      Skids (Sid Hansen)

                      Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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