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They look like they've been designed with the human wrist in mind!
XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
If your XS650 Special had the original Special buckhorn bars, they are the same as all the Specials. Lots of people don't like them, so they're easy enough to find. If you find you have to pay for them, Mike's XS has them.
Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
If your XS650 Special had the original Special buckhorn bars, they are the same as all the Specials. Lots of people don't like them, so they're easy enough to find. If you find you have to pay for them, Mike's XS has them.
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Yeah, on second look I think they are too. I really liked the way the 650 rode maybe it was seat position or something else I'm thinking of. Felt real comfortable in the saddle of that 650 and took many extended trips with her. I'm going to have to find one and sit on it for old times sake
Thanks folks for all the comments, (and pictures).
I think that I will try something like what XS11lover has on the red Special.
I am not crazy about the non-knurled bars that are offered @ JC Whitney, but you sure can't beat the cost.
For those prices, you can play around with a few styles to see what suits you.
Yes, the "non knurled" bars can move in the clamps if they're not real tight, but like you said, if nothing else they are good experimental bars. I currently have the set that's one step up from drag bars and I now realize I have to reach too far, so I'm going to get the next higher set. For 20 bucks I'm not complaining.
'79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace
As a maybe tip for securing the non knurled bars, sprinkle some powdered rosin on the inside of the clamps (before you sit the bar in place and before you put the top clamp on). You can buy powdered rosin at most sporting goods stores
(used by baseball pitchers). Works good to secure heavy rifle scopes.
I used some off of a 4 wheeler. I bought them at my local Yamaha dealer for 8 bucks, used.
1980 xs11sg
16600 miles, soon to be a lot more
stock headers with free flow exhaust
mikes xs pods
#45 pilot jets
#130 main jets on 2 & 3
#125 main jets on 1 & 4
My problem is the relationship between the handlebars and footrest. I just took a test ride after being out of motorcycles for 25 yrs. I have XS1100g. 5 days camping and riding in the Smokie Mtns. Everything is fine except coming to a stop.
Set on the edge of your chair and lean back a ways then pick up your left foot and move it to the left. Then lean forward a little and repeat. Continue until it is very difficult to lift your foot. This is the situation I am in. With stock bars and pegs I find it very difficult to lift my foot making it very hazordous to stop and get the left foot down to support the bike. I know that extending the bars back will change my back angle and allow me to lift my foot easier and this could be accomplished with setbacks or longer bars. Not sure how the bars are measured but I need them to come back further so I don't have to lean forward so far putting my feet directly under me.
Any comments or ideas welcome!!!
Larry Walker
Ham Radio kw4a
ex Submarine Sailor (8 yrs)
Dirt Rider 1970-1980
Sreet Rider Touring 1980-2000
Couch Potato 2000-Present
1980 XS1100 Standard
1979 XS650 Special
2000 BMW R1150GS
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