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Oil Window probelms/ fuel float issues

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  • #31
    I plan to run a bunch of carb cleaner through it. I just cleaned the carbs and got them darn clean. I even made sure the idle jet passages were clean. We'll see what happens after the carb cleaner.
    Tony K.
    TonimusMaximus
    Big Angry Scot - Clan Maxwell
    New 1978 XS11E Owner

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    • #32
      Poor/Non Idle

      Forget about the snake oil carb cleaners. If it won't idle without the choke on it is not getting enough fuel at idle. (or the throttle plates are completely closed)
      You mentioned that you have the idle mixture screws set at 1 1/2.
      Seems very low to me. Open them up to a full 4 turns for the next time you fire up the engine.
      Recheck that the idle speed screw is turned in far enough to crack the throttle plates a bit. Having the engine idle at 1500/1800 rpm for a short time may allow it to keep running until it is warmed up. After the engine has run long enough to be fully warmed up Then worry about setting idle speed and idle mixture.
      Settig idle and idle mixture except when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp is a waste of time. You will only have to redo it.
      Ken/Sooke

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      • #33
        I wasn't planning on using any of the "snake oil" carb cleaners. I was going to use Berryman's. Good stuff. Makes sense about idle jets and butterfly adjustment. Wasn't planning on doing it cold, but you confirmed it for me. Thanks for the reccommendation, Ratbyk.
        Tony K.
        TonimusMaximus
        Big Angry Scot - Clan Maxwell
        New 1978 XS11E Owner

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        • #34
          Update on Big Red

          Hey Tony. Any luck with the idling problem? Did you find the vacuum leak? What about the smoke coming from strange places?

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          • #35
            I wish I had. I haven't had much time to spend on it with my work schedule and the Christmas season. Probably just after Christmas I'll hunt down that Vac leak and sync/tune my carbs. Right now I'm working on tearing down the brake calipers to make sure they're still good. That's easy enough to do inside and still be with the family. The holidays make them funny like that. Aside from the brakes and huntin down this vac leak, she'll be ready to roll (minus new tires. first thing when it's ready to go)
            Tony K.
            TonimusMaximus
            Big Angry Scot - Clan Maxwell
            New 1978 XS11E Owner

            Comment


            • #36
              Update on Brakes

              Hey there everyone. I pulled off the front calipers today and cleaned the surface of them. I wanted to ask if I needed any special tools to get the pistons out. Also, I just applied approx 1500 lbs of force to the piston out of the front master cylinder. Yeah, it didn't get it out. The thing is completely seized up. Does anyone have any suggestions, or possibly one off of another bike? I haven't even looked at the rear yet, but needless to say, I'm fearful. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to salvage the calipers. TIA.
              Tony K.
              TonimusMaximus
              Big Angry Scot - Clan Maxwell
              New 1978 XS11E Owner

              Comment


              • #37
                Confirmation

                Yeah, I took the boot off of the piston in the master cylinder, the entire thing is corroded. No salvaging this one. So, I'm now looking for a front master cylinder. Offers?
                Tony K.
                TonimusMaximus
                Big Angry Scot - Clan Maxwell
                New 1978 XS11E Owner

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                • #38
                  This thead has turned into many threads. It is starting to look like the old Yahoo list...
                  Skids (Sid Hansen)

                  Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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                  • #39
                    Tony - there is a circlip holding the piston in the master cylinders. It is almost impossible to see if there's lots of spooge under the rubber boot, and it can be a pain to get out if you don't have some decent circlip pliers. Any chance you might have overlooked it?
                    Ken Talbot

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                    • #40
                      Seized Calipers

                      Hey there Tony,

                      Well, with regards to the caliper pistons, no special tools are needed exactly, but having access to an air hose helps, but you can also just gently grasp the piston with a pair of channel locks and slowly twist/spin the piston and then apply pulling pressure as you spin it to pull it out, it will just slide out, there is no lip or lock/C ring keeping it in, just the dust cover that you will want to remove, that IS held in place with a metal C-ring!

                      Mine were pretty frozen (sat for 9 years), I sprayed lots of penetrating lube thru the supply hole, and around the piston, then I got my blow dryer and heated up the caliper housing since it was aluminum, it would expand more than the steel piston, and then took a pair of channel locks to the piston grasping around it so that I could turn /spin the piston in the housing, once I got it spinning, kept spraying more penetrating lube, then slowly applied pulling pressure to the piston as I was turning it, and finally got it out! Good luck!
                      T.C.
                      T. C. Gresham
                      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                      History shows again and again,
                      How nature points out the folly of men!

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