Oil Window probelms/ fuel float issues

[TonimusMaximus]

Scheduled Fire-up date: 12/16 Not up and running, just engine/carb test. Cross your fingers fellahs. We'lll find out tomorrow.

[John]

Fire up date

Wellllllll Did it it run? Did it, did it? Enquiring minds want to know

[MartyA]

It probably did and he is still out and about with a big grin....

Snowbound in PA...

[TonimusMaximus]

Sorry for the late evening update (I just finished dinner. Amazing how work can change your internal clock) She wouldn't quite start. I'm thinking on changing the name to "Tease." She almost started up 3 times last night. The insturments lights (behind the speedo and tach) and I could smell gas in the air coming out of the pipes. I went out this morning to try again and my battery was dead! I'm going to meter out the electrical system tomorrow to find where the ground out is. As for why the bike wouldn't quite start, I speculate that the alarm system battery wasn't putting out enough power with how cold it was outside. (Probably 50 degrees) When I bought the bike, the guy started it on ether and jumped it. That's going to be my next attempt. I'll let you all know tomorrow if/where this phantom minor drain is. I welcome your thoughts on why it wouldn't start. Keep in mind that I could smell gas in the exhaust, so the freshly cleaned carbs were getting gas. I guess with the events of late, the galaxy decided that I was too happy with my progress and decided to throw a bunch of s**t to the fan. Oh well. Life sucks then we die. But between now and then, I'm determined to have a kick a$$ bike.

[TonimusMaximus]

Yay!!! My Dad just gave me a Fluke multimeter to replace my old dinosaur analog Triplett. Good times. It'll make my metering a little easier having a meter 1/4 the size.

[John]

Jump Starting

Tony,
I have made a set of jumper cables for my bike that I keep in my tool pouch. I used about 10 feet of 10 gauge wire and some large clips on the ends. I jump off my car battery when I am messing around with Organ Donor. It has no battery. I connect the cables, positive first, to the car, and to bike at the terminal on the starter relay that connects to the battery cable. Then connect the ground to some place on the car's engine, but not to the negative battery terminal. Last, connect the ground at the bike to a spot on the frame. The aluminum rear foot peg bracket works well. There should be no need to start the car, as the battery will have more than enough amperage to spin the bike over.
Pull two of the spark plugs out, # 3 & 4, and then stick them back into the plug wires. Ground the plug to the head and crank it over and check for spark. That will check both coils, If you have spark, then it may be a flooding problem. Are you using the choke? At full setting? Half setting? Is your timimg correct? Sooooo many questions!!!!
Keep us posted!
P.S. 50 degress is not cold

[TonimusMaximus]

Hey guys! I just ran the engine for 20 minutes. It's the first time (I assume) that it has been run in 22 years. It burned probably about 1 quart maybe 1.5 of oil while it was running. I noticed some odd smoke points and couldn't pin point them down. I heard some sort of vaccum leak, but couldn't locate that either. Whole new set of problems, but I did get the bike to start up with the choke all the way out and would die when I pushed it in. But I got it started. First step in a new journey. I know that my electrical system is intact. (I jumped it off my truck because the battery was dead, disconnected the truck and it charged the battery. Yay!) So, we're narrowed down to some sort of draw when the bike is off and engine troubles. I imagine that the smoke was coming from the valve stem seals. Who knows? I've still got a grin on my face from even getting the beast fired up. Life is good.

P.S. 50 degrees is cold for Phoenix at times.

[ratbyk]

Oil smoke

There is a very good chance that the oil smoke will go away or at least be greatly reduced after a good run. It needs to be; "blown out".
Good possibility over those 20 plus years that someone dumped oil into the cylinders to protect them while in storage. This will certainly make a lot of smoke for awhile.
I would not be in a hurry to dive back into the carbs until after the bike has had it's run and cleaned out the cylinders. Once it has run for awhile and is cleaned up inside, the rings freed up from some use/heat/fresh oil compression will likely rise a bit.
With internals re-seating and compression returning closer to normal it may not idle to badly.
Keep plugging away. You are getting closer and the satisfaction of rejuvenating one of these is very rewarding.
Lots of luck.
Ken/Sooke
78E Ratbyk
82 FT500 "lilRat"

[TonimusMaximus]

I did put oil in the cylinders before I fired them up. So I should just put a bunch of run time on the engine with carb cleaner and watch the oil level? That'd be amazing if it reconditioned all the seals. That would kinda make sense. The smoking did get worse as the engine heated up and the oil flowed more freely. I will keep you all posted on the progress and I am currently working on a website which will chronicle my journey into the wonderful world of the XS.

[John]

Idling problem

Tony, When you cleaned the carbs did you make sure that the smallports in the float bowl were clear? That is where the small tube that protudes from the carb body, into the bowl gets it fuel for the choke circuit. I just went throuh a set of carbs from an XJ11, and all four of these ports were plugged solid. I had to use a very small drill bit in a pin vise to clear them. One way to check them is to get some fuel, or carb cleaner in these ports and see if it flows out of the small hole near the bottom of the bowl. If not, then that may explain your idling problem. You said you had some smoke coming from strange areas? That may just be accumlated dirt and oil that is on the engine burning off. Organ Donor did that to me also. The vacuum leaks shouldn't be too hard to find. While it's running,spray some WD-40, or some thing similiar, don't use carb spray or ether- too flammable- around the carbs. All you want to do is have the spray momentarily(?) seal the leaking area. That will change the rpm's enough to be noticable. Check around the throttle shaft seals on the carbs. They can dry out after years of sitting. I'll bet the intake boots look all cracked too, unless you've replaced them. Spray those with the WD40 while it's running also. Spray the area where the boots bolt to the head. A major vacuum leak will cause a poor idle condition also. Although the boots may look cracked , they may not leak. There seems to be a hard coating on the inside of them and it will remain intact. Did you do a compression test in the cylinders? Dry test and wet test? The compression should come up after squirting some oil in the cylinders. If it does, then you probably have worn rings. If it doesn't, the the cause may be the valves are burned or not seating properly. Good luck.I hope this helps.

[John]

Me again

I couldn't edit my first post so here I go again....Another thing to try is some of the new oils that are formulated for older, high milage engines. They claim to help recodition seals. It may be too thin(10W-30) for prolonged use, but it shouldn't hurt anything to leave it in for a few hours of run time. I think we can use 10W-40 in our bikes in cold weather any way, so it shouldn't hurt any thing. That would be cheaper and easier than a major tear down of the engine. I use it in both of my vehicles. They both have over 100k miles, and neither of them leak or burn oil. I'll shut up now. It's time for lunch
P.S. Coming from Maine, 50 degress is a heat wave in June

[TonimusMaximus]

I did make sure that the paths in the bowl were clear. I used carb cleaner, a long dart and some fishing line. I know the choke works. I can start it when it's out, but when it's in, it won't idle. I think I may need to back the idle screws way out. I'm only 1.25 turns out. That could be the issue. The WD-40 idea is a really good one. The next time the bike it running, I'll have to do that. WDITOT? Right now I'm metering out my bike to see what drained my battery overnight. I have a suspicion, but who knows? It's funny how stuff can work the opposite of what it's supposed to. I'm off to do a search on what stays on when the bike is locked down. I'll let ya know.

[John]

Brain fart

After posting, and then re-reading my post I realized my mistake. Sorry for the bad info. To check for a drain, turn ignition off and remove a battery cable and place a meter probe, or a test light ground clip on the battery cable you just removed and the other probe,or test light probe on the battery terminal you removed the cable from. If there is a draw the meter will show a voltage, if not, no voltage reading. Then with the probes in place, igniyion still off, remove one fuse at a time and see if the reading goes away. If it does, then the affected component is in that circuit. Good luck

[TonimusMaximus]

You can also simply use ohms to find where the drain is coming from. I found out where the drain was. My stupidity. I always ass-u-me-d that the ignition switch was a 3 position switch because that's what the wiring diagram says. Well, electronically it is. Mechanically it is 4 position. I left it in park instead of lock. The ring around the switch was faded out, so I couldn't tell what was where. I found it purely by accident today. So I am almost done with the mechanics of getting it finished. I have to tear down and clean the brake system (front and rear) and remove and grease the driveshaft. Then the rest is as-needed. God I love my bike.

[skids]

Re: Idling problem

If the bike runs OK with the choke, with all cylinders firing, I suspect that the tubes are clean. As you said, that is how the choke circuit draws fuel. I am betting that she needs the carbs cleaned. 'Course, the starter jet tubes could be checked then...

Originally posted by John
Tony, When you cleaned the carbs did you make sure that the smallports in the float bowl were clear? That is where the small tube that protudes from the carb body, into the bowl gets it fuel for the choke circuit. I just went throuh a set of carbs from an XJ11, and all four of these ports were plugged solid