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  • #31
    Wally wold sells a clearcoat in the auto paint section that says "resists gas and oil and it also says engine paint on it. Its a 500 degree paint. Has anyone tried it. Its only like $5 a can so i doubt if anyone has. I may try to do a cheap job like that with my 750 and if it dont turn out, just paint it again with something better. I would like to practice on the 750 cause i dont ride it much.
    Jeff
    77 XS750 2D completely stock
    79 SF XS1100 "Picky" stock with harley mufflers

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    • #32
      Not well

      Jeff

      I had tried that paint. Resists gas spills if you wipe off quick. I mean quick. Let it go till you finish filling tank and you will have ugly discoloration.

      Spend the $20 for the two part clear can. So worth it.

      John
      John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

      Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
      '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
      Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

      "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

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      • #33
        Originally posted by Lbrown311 View Post
        So, should the clear be applied during the base coat window to create a chemical bond with the clear and the base coat? I would assume they would have to be of the same chemical compounds regardless of manufacturer to make that bond happen.
        Personally, I clear during the recoat window. I also like to use matching paint systems that are chemically the same so they can bond correctly. I HAVE clear coated with 2k clear over lacquer paints like the Duplicolor Paint Shop line. You can do it, but it won't be nearly as durable as sticking to 2k paints for the color/clear coats AND you have to be VERY careful to build up a a couple of light mist coats or else the solvents in the 2k will cause the cured lacquer to run under the clear (that sucks by the way...).

        With decent quart systems available online or even in local paint stores, it just isn't worth the trouble.

        Daveyg,

        Not wiping it off is probably the smart way to go, especially when you are talking about a few small drops that evaporate quickly. Even those drops softened the paint to some extent, which then hardened back up after the gas evaporated. It still amazes me just how freaking fast lacquers soften in the presence of a solvent.
        -- Clint
        1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989

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