Painting tank

[Jeffintampa]

Hi all,
I painted my tank spray bomb type, and when some gas hit it the paint ran bad. I would like to see if anyone has some good instruction on spray bombing a tank that is gas run proof.

[cywelchjr]

Hi all,
I painted my tank spray bomb type, and when some gas hit it the paint ran bad. I would like to see if anyone has some good instruction on spray bombing a tank that is gas run proof.

Spray can stuff is NOT gas proof, it's not even gas resistant and will often rinse off with gas just like it was water colors. It will get better the longer it cures, but it will never become gas proof, or even really gas resistant all that much.

However, there is 2 part clear in a spray can you can get that can be sprayed on over the spray bomb stuff that will hold up pretty well, but you gotta give the other stuff time to fully cure, generally about a week or so, or put it in an oven for several hours.

Here is the link for it:
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

[fredintoon]

Hi all,
I painted my tank spray bomb type, and when some gas hit it the paint ran bad. I would like to see if anyone has some good instruction on spray bombing a tank that is gas run proof.

Hi Jeff,
as you have discovered, rattlecan paints are not fuel proof, you gotta use a 2-part paint.
Cy's recommendation works but you have to mix the clear before you start and the entire contents must be used within 24 hours.
Another way is with a Preval:-
http://www.preval.com/
The system allows you to only mix the amount of 2-part paint you need.
But how can you live a full life without an air compressor?

[cywelchjr]

Hi Jeff,
as you have discovered, rattlecan paints are not fuel proof, you gotta use a 2-part paint.
Cy's recommendation works but you have to mix the clear before you start and the entire contents must be used within 24 hours.
Another way is with a Preval:-
http://www.preval.com/
The system allows you to only mix the amount of 2-part paint you need.
But how can you live a full life without an air compressor?

That's the method I'm planning on, as I have the compressor already, and as you said, I can mix just what I need at any given time. But for those who don't have a compressor, and/or don't have a place to have one, the spray can 2 part is a viable option. It's also an option for a single time use as well, since by the time you by the dryer, the dedicated hose that's never been used for anything but painting do you don't get water or oil in the paint, and a paint gun, your gonna spend far far far more than that can of paint, so it depends on how many things you might be painting. I'm figuring on painting multiple things, so having something reusable is good, but if I was just going to be doing a single one time job, it wouldn't be worth spending the money on all the gear needed to do it the right way.

[Aches n Pains]

The Preval system looks very interesting. Where do you guys get two part paint?

Thanks

[fredintoon]

The Preval system looks very interesting. Where do you guys get two part paint?

Hi Doug,
2-part paint is the elephant in the room.
You buy the stuff from automobile paint supplies stores that you find in the yellow pages.
The smallest (1 pint) can of pigment costs ~$60. Cost can go to 5 times that for fancy metalflake paint.
Then there's the catalyst that makes it harden and the extender that thins it to spray nice.
The last two are not colour-specific so you can buy bigger cans at least.
Your least material cost to paint a gas tank will be ~$100.
You will be left with ~1/2 of the pigment plus most of the catalyst and extender for use on other projects.
And yeah, a quart can of acetone to clean out the Preval.

[natemoen]

The Preval system looks very interesting. Where do you guys get two part paint?

Thanks

When I bought my clear coat a few months back I bought Nason brand from a auto paint supplier. Cost me $28 for the clear and another $6 for the catalyst. Still have a good amount of it left.

[fredintoon]

When I bought my clear coat a few months back I bought Nason brand from a auto paint supplier. Cost me $28 for the clear and another $6 for the catalyst. Still have a good amount of it left.

Hi Nate,
yeah, I was quoting Canadian prices for colour paint. US costs are lower plus clearcoat costs less than pigment.
You didn't quote for extender. Did you have some laying around or didn't the Nason clearcoat need it?
BTW, I've never used a Preval sprayer because I have a 16cfm air compressor. I'd be interested to hear about how the thing actually works.

[natemoen]

Hi Nate,
yeah, I was quoting Canadian prices for colour paint. US costs are lower plus clearcoat costs less than pigment.
You didn't quote for extender. Did you have some laying around or didn't the Nason clearcoat need it?
BTW, I've never used a Preval sprayer because I have a 16cfm air compressor. I'd be interested to hear about how the thing actually works.

The color I bought was I think $34, another $6 for the catalyist there and $11 for the reducer.

I have never used a clear coat that used a reducer.

That all said you can use rattle can paint and then put a 2 part clear over it and save some money on the color end.

[crazy steve]

Paint costs are not what they used to be...

I just bought paint last month, and locally the best I could do for pricing was the $100+ Fred mentioned. You can do better online, but the problem you'll find there is very few suppliers sell in quantities of less than a gallon. I could buy a gallon online for less than I could get quart locally, even with shipping, etc. Keep in mind that color choice can have a huge effect on price...

I used these guys...http://www.thecoatingstore.com/ ... and had no issues with their paint. They sell solid-color quart 'kits' (with reducer & hardener; plenty to paint a bike) for about $50, including shipping. A pint could do it if you can find someone who sells in that amount (I couldn't) and all you're painting is the tank/sidecovers, but that's cutting it pretty close IMO. If you're painting more (fenders, seat trim, fairing, etc), get a quart. Keep in mind that there are very specific 'rules' about mixing/applying 2-part paint (which can vary between manufacturers) and you need to follow them.

But not even these paints are totally impervious to spilled fuel; you still don't want to get gas on them, and if you do you need to clean it off immediately. But they won't 'wash off' like rattle-can will...

[Woof]

Even if you don't get the clear looking perfect once it has dried you can wet sand (I start with 600, 800, 1000 and finally 1500 grit sandpaper) then buff with rubbing compound and polish. These steps will give you a mirror finish just be careful not to sand through the clear into the color.

[crazy steve]

Even if you don't get the clear looking perfect once it has dried you can wet sand (I start with 600, 800, 1000 and finally 1500 grit sandpaper) then buff with rubbing compound and polish. These steps will give you a mirror finish just be careful not to sand through the clear into the color.

I did mine with 1500, 2000, then 3000. Much less chance of 'sanding through', and the buffing was a snap.

[fredintoon]

- - - I have never used a clear coat that used a reducer. - - -

Hi Nate,
I just read the instructions on the pigment can and mixed the clear the same way. Perhaps that's why I could hardly get the clear to go on without it going into runs?
Should I be happy that my eyesight is not as bad as I feared or sad because I'm getting stupider as I age?
And Woof, Steve,
wetsanding? Buffing? Overachievers! Straight out the gun, step back & squint. It'll look just great from a yard away.

[jjz28]

I just spilled gas on my tank yesterday and the paint bubbled down to the primer. THe tank had been painted before probably spray can but looked good. Has anyone on here used the spray max can of clear. That sounds like what i need, i just hate to not be able to ride for 7 days Sorry to bring up the old post but I was in the exact same boat.

[SFerinTEXAS]

If you want to try something cheap first I suggest Duplicolor or Rustoleum Hi-Heat 500 degree engine paint. I sprayed a valve cover 5 yrs ago silver and occasionally spray seeps off with brakleen or carb cleaner and it does not run or bubble. . Best to cure it in low heat a while I expect.........Just saying.