Dynojet stage 1 without drilling the slide - XJ11

[KA1J]

I just repacked the baffles on a Jardine Spaghetti and have made a K&N filter for the stock XJ11 airbox by replacing the paper element with K&N material. Since it's not stock system I'm expecting it to run lean.

I have a Dynojet kit for it # 17-1885 but don't want to drill out the slide. I'm really adverse to doing permanent changes to something I want to keep for a long time.

Has anyone put in the stage 1 Dynojet jets & needles with a lightly modified carb & pipes and not drilled the slides?

How did it fare for you?

I probably should just run it for awhile & see how it does with the stock rebuild I did but getting the carbs out was a SOB & after forcing these carbs back in tomorrow when I'm done, I don't want to have to do all that again for a long time. If I will for sure have to change the jetting down the road, I'd rather do it now & not haul those carbs out till down the line when I need to clean the whole setup.

Thoughts on this?

[TADracer]

Run whatcha got first.

I have never been a proponent of 'stacking' modifications. It is always better to try one thing at a time that way you can get a real impact of that change only. So, IMHO, I would run your carbs where they are and see the performance you get before you put in your jet kit. As far as drilling the slide, that will make it react faster bringing on mid-range quicker. Something that you might not like if you do alot of low-speed riding. If you put your jet kit in, try it without the drill and see what happens (see first sentence).

Having said that, if you drill the slides, measure the original hole first so that if you decide to go back you can fill the larger hole in with J-B Weld and re-drill the hole to factory.

[CatatonicBug]

I did the drill with my dynojet kit, but it was suggested to me to drill anyway, even WITHOUT the dynojet kit. It helps with throttle response, thereby increasing fuel efficiency. HTH

[natemoen]

I did the drill with my dynojet kit, but it was suggested to me to drill anyway, even WITHOUT the dynojet kit. It helps with throttle response, thereby increasing fuel efficiency. HTH

What exactly is it that gets drilled? The hole at the bottom of the slide?

[CatatonicBug]

What exactly is it that gets drilled? The hole at the bottom of the slide?

The air vent hole that goes THROUGH the slide. You can see straight through it anyway, but the DJ kit instructions say to open that hole up just a tad to allow more air to vent more quickly. This allows the slide to move a bit faster.

[natemoen]

Yeah, thats the hole I figured just wanted to make sure.

[crazy steve]

...I have a Dynojet kit for it # 17-1885 but don't want to drill out the slide. I'm really adverse to doing permanent changes to something I want to keep for a long time.

Has anyone put in the stage 1 Dynojet jets & needles with a lightly modified carb & pipes and not drilled the slides?...

I believe Dan Hodges has used that combo; he liked the taper on the Dynojet needles better, but I also believe he used mikuni jets. Do a search for his posts, he spent a lot of money and time finding out what works.

FWIW, Dynojet kits aren't all that well thought of on the 'other' bike list I'm on, as the 'serious hp' guys without exception don't recommend drilling the slides. The main complaint seems to be that while drilling the slide can improve 'throttle response' (but not hp), it can also cause 'fluttering' of the slide accelerating wear.

I'm with you, I wouldn't drill 'em either...

[KA1J]

What exactly is it that gets drilled? The hole at the bottom of the slide?

Yes. They give you a non marked drill in a sealed bag #39 The drill is somewhere between 5/64 - 3/32 in size. I haven't removed it in case I don't use the kit.

I do need to decide soon, other than putting in the airbox, carbs & the tank (and a final nut check to be sure all's fastened down properly) it's ready for break-in.

If I knew the easiest way how to get the carbs in with the airbox in place & out again if need be, it would be so much simpler.

[natemoen]

If I knew the easiest way how to get the carbs in with the airbox in place & out again if need be, it would be so much simpler.

It's called practice!

[Cobia]

Don't know much about the dynojet kit, but considering the HP and acceleration I get from these bikes, I would deem it unnecessary.
One mod that I would highly recommend is the YICS eliminator, if you haven't done it already.
Having experienced the same hassle as you in removing/re-installing the carbs on the XJ, I found that having the eliminator in there sure makes carb synching a breeze. This goes a long way in getting those carbs dialed in.
Another mod I had to do was change my pilot jet to a #50. My J always slightly sputtered/stumbled between 1.5k and 2.2k RPM, precisely the rpm range you're in when negotiating slow speeds in parking lots and such.
BikerPhil and I tried every which way to clear it to no avail, took the carbs out many times, AARRGG!!
Changing the pilots was a last resort and it cleared everything instantaneously. Keep that in the back of your mind for when you start dialing it in.

[KA1J]

It's called practice!

Ah yes. But as a musician for the last 50 years I found this old quote to be always true: "Perfect practice makes perfect".

With the XJ11, I want to know the perfect way to do this and then practice that... Doing it the way I did to get it out was a lot of wasted pushing and tugging, if I knew which way to push and twist it would be a help.

A sticky in the tips section with pictures for the XJ11 would be gold for me right about now.

I've been applying armorall to the boots for some time now & will be lubing them with silicone grease before putting the carbs in.

[KA1J]

Don't know much about the dynojet kit, but considering the HP and acceleration I get from these bikes, I would deem it unnecessary.
One mod that I would highly recommend is the YICS eliminator, if you haven't done it already.
Having experienced the same hassle as you in removing/re-installing the carbs on the XJ, I found that having the eliminator in there sure makes carb synching a breeze. This goes a long way in getting those carbs dialed in.
Another mod I had to do was change my pilot jet to a #50. My J always slightly sputtered/stumbled between 1.5k and 2.2k RPM, precisely the rpm range you're in when negotiating slow speeds in parking lots and such.
BikerPhil and I tried every which way to clear it to no avail, took the carbs out many times, AARRGG!!
Changing the pilots was a last resort and it cleared everything instantaneously. Keep that in the back of your mind for when you start dialing it in.

My only interest in jetting is solely to manage the burn correctly so it's not too lean and not too rich. Drivability is big and I'll remember the 50 for the pilot.