Grasping at STRAWS to fix broken carb post.

[jetmechmarty]

Xs650

Cy,

I used the body of the XS650 carb and nothing else. All of the parts came off my XS11 carb and I mean everything. It ran great to about 3500 RPM, then that cylinder went bye bye. Something in that body is different, but I could never find a difference by close scrutiny.

I just came in from a 120 mile ride in the mountains. It was a blast!

[bikerphil]

I used the body of the XS650 carb and nothing else. All of the parts came off my XS11 carb and I mean everything. It ran great to about 3500 RPM, then that cylinder went bye bye. Something in that body is different, but I could never find a difference by close scrutiny.

Might be the main air jet that is different. That jet is pressed into the body and not removable IIRC.

[79XS11F]

I'm beginning to believe "cheap" and "easy" are not mutually inclusive.

If the fiberglass resin, which can be obtained in small amounts at places like Canadian Tire, will adhere to the base of the broken post I think cheap and easy may just be possible in this case. I think I'm going to skip the coating of the Z Poxy post and go right to a fiberglass resin repair because I would not be able to coat the inside of the pin hole so gasoline would in time break down the repair. A little bit of research on fiberglass resin says that it will stick to metal as long as that metal is PROPERLY prepped. Scuffed up and cleaned with acetone.
Rob

[79XS11F]

Just in from running errands and picked up some fiberglass resin. About a half liter of resin and hardener sold separately cost 17 bucks plus taxes. Could have bough a small fiberglass repair kit with cloth for 14.99 plus tax but the amount of resin and hardener in the kit was about 1/4 liter so I skipped that option and don't need the cloth. First I will have to get the Z Poxy completely off the post so I will soak that carb in gasoline. Once this repair option has been completed, sometime next week, I will post pics and results.
Rob

[TopCatGr58]

Repair update!

I took some piece of 1/2" thick aluminum, drilled a ~1/4" hole in the piece, wallered it out just a little because the base is slightly tapered and a hair larger, just trying to make an interference type fit. Cut a slot in the side of it for the slot/wedge piece of the body that joins the base of the post to the body, then used a grinder,etc. to cut off excess material so that the bowl would fit down over it. Regrettably, they designed it with a very tight/close tolerance between the base of the post and the bowl, and after lots of filing, grinding,etc. I ended up making another slot in the piece towards the outside edge next to the recess area of the bowl! This weakened the interference fit a fair amount! So I then cross drilled the base piece and the repair piece so that I could stick a brad/nail into both to provide a little more tension and security to the fit!

Just wanted to post this followup to my repair efforts, and to add some photos...we all love photos!

These were taken while I was still "adjusting" the fit, both of the piece down over the old remaining post, as well as the float bowl.


This view shows the securing "pin" brad nail that I put in there using an interference fit to get it snug.


I had to do a little more tweaking, but got it working just fine after a little bit. I think I would have liked to have done the WIRE securing method combined with this overfitting of the extra piece like a crown on a tooth!

But if folks still have their broken piece and there's enough material on it, then looks like the cross drilling the broken piece and the base section and wiring them together would be the better solution, no epoxy to worry about. Would mention that they would want to put the securing holes diagonally thru the base portion...like from under where the float pin is across towards one of the float balloon pieces. Otherwise, the wire would be coming out rigth against the area where the float bowl sits very FLUSH against the base of the post.

T.C.

[fredintoon]

I used the body of the XS650 carb and nothing else. All of the parts came off my XS11 carb and I mean everything. It ran great to about 3500 RPM, then that cylinder went bye bye. Something in that body is different, but I could never find a difference by close scrutiny.

Hi Marty,
the XS650 carbs each run a bigger cylinder (375ccs vs 275ccs) than the XS11 so it shoulda worked OK.
I'd suppose the 3500rpm cut-off was due to mixing the XS650 carb body with the XS11 carb innards.

[jetmechmarty]

Thanx Fred. I bet if I had used four XS650 carb bodies it would have worked just fine.

[jetmechmarty]

picked up some fiberglass resin.

I'm not sure, but isn't ethanol the enemy of that stuff?

[79XS11F]

I'm not sure, but isn't ethanol the enemy of that stuff?

I did not see any info in my search about it that was related to an issue with ethanol. Fiberglass is currently being used to make household and industrial fuel holding tanks, motorcycle gas tanks and many other fluid tight containers. From what I could find about ii, it is different from all types of epoxies. I am pretty sure this is going to work so long as I can get the top of the post cleaned properly.
Rob

[79XS11F]

I just finished making the fiberglass resin post repair and drilling out the float pin hole. I opted to drill out the pin hole before the post was fully hardened. I did that with a small drill bit being turned by hand between my fingers. I will let this repair fully harden and see what I've got.
Rob

[3Phase]

Rob, I can't find the link now but someone used fiberglass to make a totally bitchen', larger, gas tank for their motorcycle.

After using the new tank for a while the resin started to soften and the tank deformed. Some of the resin turned into gelatinous ooze so the tank was scrapped before it started to leak.

[latexeses]

3Phase,
I remember that thread but thought it had a bunch of photos. I think I printed it out somewhere.
Don't know if you were thinking of this thread.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...=capacity+tank

Here it is!
http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...-gas-tank.html

[latexeses]

They are one and the same. Just found them in two different places. OOPS.

[cywelchjr]

That's interesting because a lot of tanks are made of fiberglass these days. I'm wondering if there are different grades and the wrong grade was used?

[latexeses]

I did a bunch of fiberglass work on a boat when I was a kid and it was mostly on the transom and inside on the floor of the boat.
It was not uncommon for it to have gas mix on it from filling that old "top tank" motor. Never had a lick of trouble. Except my tenners always smelled like gas!
Think of all the fiberglass boats out there that have been swimming in gas.
Maybe it was a case of bad resin in the mix?