Grasping at STRAWS to fix broken carb post.

[B.B.]

Just wondering but I heard the Marine JB weld holds up in fuel. Let me know what you think because thats what I did.

[79XS11F]

Just wondering but I heard the Marine JB weld holds up in fuel. Let me know what you think because thats what I did.

Is the repair you did always submersed in fuel as will be the case for the float pin posts?
Let me know because I could not find anything at Canadian tire that says its impervious to fuel. Everything says fuel resistant.
I could not find the "quick steel" sticks.
Rob

[B.B.]

Yes I did use it for the float pin, but the automotive store tech told me that it would work being submerged in fuel but really what do they know. I was wondering if anyone had tried it. The guy before me had used JB weld and when I went to clean the carbs it was like clay and did not hold at all.

[B.B.]

Well do not use the marine JB weld either it does not hold being submerged in fuel. Trust me I know this first hand. It last about 3 weeks and it is already begging to get weak. On to the next idea.

[79XS11F]

I have been everywhere including the RC hobby shop looking for epoxy that is gasoline proof. The closest thing I have found is a product used in the RC hobby called Z Poxy. It is "fuel" proof but I would guess they mean the fuel that is used in the RC hobby which is not gasoline but is pretty volatile. I do think I will use it with the straw for the form and then coat the hardened Z Poxy with fiberglass resin.
Rob

[crazy steve]

I don't think you're going to have much luck with any kind epoxy...

I've seen these products (I bought a kit like the last link, but haven't tried it yet) that look very promising....

http://www.gemplers.com/product/1654...57825#TAB-INFO

http://www.muggyweld.com/index2.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-SOF...item2313893249

All melt at pretty low temps, so should be workable with a Propane or Mapp gas torch. None offer much in the way of structural strength from what I see, but for a carb post repair should work just fine.

[79XS11F]

I don't think you're going to have much luck with any kind epoxy...

I've seen these products (I bought a kit like the last link, but haven't tried it yet) that look very promising....

http://www.gemplers.com/product/1654...57825#TAB-INFO

http://www.muggyweld.com/index2.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-SOF...item2313893249

All melt at pretty low temps, so should be workable with a Propane or Mapp gas torch. None offer much in the way of structural strength from what I see, but for a carb post repair should work just fine.

Yes that does look like it may be the way to go. Now to find it locally.
Rob

[crazy steve]

Try a HVAC supplier, as that's the people most of these products are intended for...

[natemoen]

Most RC engines run on nitro meth, I would say if it can stand up to that it will handle gas.

[mack]

Carb bodies

What number carb bodies do you need?

[79XS11F]

Most RC engines run on nitro meth, I would say if it can stand up to that it will handle gas.

That was my thinking as well and I can get a small quantity for about 10 bucks. The Z poxy is also suitable for use on fiberglass cloth and we know that fiberglass is safe with gasoline. I'm also hoping to find an easy fix that works and anyone can do pretty fast and cheap.
Rob

[79XS11F]

I got the Z Poxy test underway now. Used the straw as a form as was done with the JB weld attempt. With this Z Poxy i did notice that it firmed up pretty quick which allowed me to shape the form into the oval shape of the original post. It will be 16 hours to fully cure. I have some from the mix on a toothpick that I will fully submerse into gasoline and let it soak for a day to see how it stands up. The JB weld had became soft and flexable very quickly.
Rob

[79XS11F]

The Z Poxy is as hard as glass so into a bottle of gasoline the sample goes. I will check it out tomorrow after work and see what effect the gasoline had on it. In the mean time I will not bother finishing the post in the carb until the gas test is done. Keep you posted, No pun intended.
Rob

[CaptonZap]

It's a little late, but here is a thought.
The part you are replacing is fastened to the carb body by what those in the trade would call a butt connection.
Butt connections are not very strong, due to the limited joint area, and the cantilevered stress.
So, since you seem to be comfortable with small work pieces, the next time you have to do one, take a piece of piano wire, get a drill bit the same size, drill two holes in the post base, one on either side, positioned such that they are centered in the area that will be along side of the pin hole, bend the piano wire into a U shape, push the U down into the holes with a smear of epoxy, then pot the rest of the epoxy around the pinned post.
Now you have a reinforced epoxy post, less apt to come apart at the seams. JAT CZ

[jetmechmarty]

.020 stainless safety wire is what you need for that.