wiring for LED's

[ShootersHoliday]

Hey All,

Newbie here. I apparently am losing my mind trying to figure out wiring my bike for the LEDs'.

Wiring is not my issue, but for some reason I'm having difficulty reading the wiring schematic for this bike. I need to set up the bike for new LED's and tails.

The Stop/tail light is a 3 wire light (ground, constant, intermittent)

Both turn signals are a standard ground/power 2 wire setup.

I read the diagram as follows:

Bright blue is tail
The green/yellow is stop
Brown is right
Greenish is left
Black is ground

The color of my wires are:

Bright blue, green, brown, yellow, & black

It seems that if I connect them the way it makes sense (in my brain), there is no tail function.

[crazy steve]

That sounds correct. The 'yellow' wire should have a stripe on it, and will be the only one that does. It's actually a light green with a yellow stripe, but can be faded. Or maybe you're bit colorblind. So blue is tail, green and brown are turns, 'yellow' is stop. You might verify that last one by checking voltage with the key on and the brake pedal depressed.

Keep in mind that the turn signals won't work unless you change the flasher, and you'll lose the auto shut-off function.

[ShootersHoliday]

so I was correct.... Except for some jackel decided to use a blue wire as a ground, and a black wire for tails.... That was fun...

Oh well, I'll post some pics as soon as I'm done putting together the tail light setup.

What do I need to change the flasher to? Is it just the low draw from the LED's?

[crazy steve]

so I was correct.... Except for some jackel decided to use a blue wire as a ground, and a black wire for tails.... That was fun...
What do I need to change the flasher to? Is it just the low draw from the LED's?

Doncha love POs?

Most guys use one of those 'electronic' flashers that don't care what load is on them. Most parts houses should have one...

[TopCatGr58]

You'll want to send a PM to a member named ELDR, he makes electronic flashers for LED turns and it RETAINS the self cancelling feature. He stated he would be selling them for like $10-15, but wanted to get some OUT THERE to get feedback on it's functionality for advertising purposes, so you might get a deal? Can't hurt to ask!

The flasher can NOT be used with conventional bulbs, has a 2 amp draw limit, but works great with LEDS that usually have like 0.3 amps per bulb/array.

IF you decide to get one from a local auto store, I've found that keeping the incandescent dash/gauge indicator bulbs help provide enough load to activate the electronic flasher with full LED turn signals.

HOWEVER, you didn't post what year/model you have...helpful to put in your SIGNATURE so it's posted with every post....but If you have IIRC the 79SF which uses only 1 central dash/gauge turn indicator, you will have to install a pair of diodes in the wires to the dash light, otherwise, the current will leak thru the dash bulb to the other side, and all 4 will flash at the same time!

T.C.

[ShootersHoliday]

You'll want to send a PM to a member named ELDR, he makes electronic flashers for LED turns and it RETAINS the self cancelling feature. He stated he would be selling them for like $10-15, but wanted to get some OUT THERE to get feedback on it's functionality for advertising purposes, so you might get a deal? Can't hurt to ask!

The flasher can NOT be used with conventional bulbs, has a 2 amp draw limit, but works great with LEDS that usually have like 0.3 amps per bulb/array.

IF you decide to get one from a local auto store, I've found that keeping the incandescent dash/gauge indicator bulbs help provide enough load to activate the electronic flasher with full LED turn signals.

HOWEVER, you didn't post what year/model you have...helpful to put in your SIGNATURE so it's posted with every post....but If you have IIRC the 79SF which uses only 1 central dash/gauge turn indicator, you will have to install a pair of diodes in the wires to the dash light, otherwise, the current will leak thru the dash bulb to the other side, and all 4 will flash at the same time!

T.C.

Interesting about the draw limit. I have full LEDs on my truck (notice a trend here ), I hadn't ever had to upgrade/change anything to get full functionality on the blinkers. They self cancel and all that fun...

I have a 1980 Xs 1100G, which I'm finding means something, of which I have no idea... The wiring diagram I initially loaded was for the "standard" models. My buddy is an electrical engineer, so I ran a few of these issues by him.

I just don't like standard irradescent bulbs. Got sick of replacing them on my truck, and fell in love with the technology of LED stuff. Plus, once you soldered a few motherboards building your own LED setup isn't too daunting

[crazy steve]

...I hadn't ever had to upgrade/change anything to get full functionality on the blinkers. They self cancel and all that fun...

I have a 1980 Xs 1100G, which I'm finding means something, of which I have no idea... The wiring diagram I initially loaded was for the "standard" models. My buddy is an electrical engineer, so I ran a few of these issues by him.

The self-cancelling feature on these is done electronically, and is dependant on the OEM flasher and bulb load; change any part, and the self cancel won't work. Cars/trucks cancel mechanically...

The single model letter denotes a 'standard' bike, although it may pay to check serial numbers on both the motor and frame to be sure. There are differences between the standard and 'Special' models, some major. Depending on which wiring diagram you downloaded, it may or may not be right; the '78-79 diagrams contain several errors.

[cywelchjr]

The self-cancelling feature on these is done electronically, and is dependant on the OEM flasher and bulb load; change any part, and the self cancel won't work. Cars/trucks cancel mechanically...

The single model letter denotes a 'standard' bike, although it may pay to check serial numbers on both the motor and frame to be sure. There are differences between the standard and 'Special' models, some major. Depending on which wiring diagram you downloaded, it may or may not be right; the '78-79 diagrams contain several errors.

That said, with LEDs for the turn signals you can put load equalizers on to make the OEM flasher work. Since they are momentary, the loss of savings is negligible, but you still save on the markers on the front as anyways. I forget what the value is, but the load equalizer is nothing more than a large power resistor across the line.

[crazy steve]

...I forget what the value is, but the load equalizer is nothing more than a large power resistor across the line.

6.1 ohms for each light; if you wire it in correctly, you can use a 3 ohm to do both front and rear. I'd recommend getting a 50 watt resistor to handle the load so it doesn't burn up, and mount it away from anything that can't take heat.... they can get hot.

[cywelchjr]

6.1 ohms for each light; if you wire it in correctly, you can use a 3 ohm to do both front and rear. I'd recommend getting a 50 watt resistor to handle the load so it doesn't burn up, and mount it away from anything that can't take heat.... they can get hot.

See my new post. I will be posting a mod to enable the auto cancel circuit with a two prong flasher. It will work with any type of bulbs, it don't care what your running. As long as the flasher will handle them, the auto cancel will do it's job, the only load IT sees is the relay that enables the cancel function.

[ShootersHoliday]

well now this silly bike is giving me fits yet again. I've hardtailed the rear, and lopped the fender for the time being. So, I changed out the lights that were on there for a proper setup.

I have a Sparto LED setup, with 3 wire (constant(bright), momentary(dim), and ground.

Now, I am only getting tails, but no brake lights. I have no idea how I got it to work yesterday, but am striking out tonight... I have brought it down to the factory wiring to avoid any PO issues.

The setup as is:

Bike black(ground) to Sparto black (ground)
Bike blue (tails) to Sparto yellow (dim)
Bike yellow (stop) to Sparto red (bright)

I have no idea what the heck is the problem... I only get a single function from them whether wired to the bright or dim.

Could it have anything to do with the front signals not being connected? There was a short in the instrument cluster & front turn signals that was result of some craptacular PO wiring job. Gotta love using tape as a "permanent" fix...

[TopCatGr58]

I have a Sparto LED setup, with 3 wire (constant(bright), momentary(dim), and ground.

Now, I am only getting tails, but no brake lights. I have no idea how I got it to work yesterday, but am striking out tonight... I have brought it down to the factory wiring to avoid any PO issues.

The setup as is:

Bike black(ground) to Sparto black (ground)
Bike blue (tails) to Sparto yellow (dim)
Bike yellow (stop) to Sparto red (bright)

I have no idea what the heck is the problem... I only get a single function from them whether wired to the bright or dim.

Could it have anything to do with the front signals not being connected? There was a short in the instrument cluster & front turn signals that was result of some craptacular PO wiring job. Gotta love using tape as a "permanent" fix...

Hey there,

Well, you're first line looked like the problem...you said Constant=Bright, and Momentary=Dim, but it should be the other way around, yet you stated later that you tried it both ways, and only get 1 level of light from the tail/brake light?? I just tried doing a search on the NET for Sparto trying to find a website for them, no go!

I think you need to check your harness wires, and see if you're seeing the 12 volts from the BRAKE line wire? I'm thinking that you aren't getting any power from it, so it's only staying at the dim level?? And you can take a test known 12 volt power lead and test it on the Sparto light to ensure that you see both levels of lights when powered, then you'll know for sure it's the bike and not the light!

T.C.

[ShootersHoliday]

Sorry, yes, the momentary is the bright light. I was a little tired writing the previous post.

Otherwise, I'll check more, but I know for sure it is the bike, not the lights. The main reason I jumped into replacing everything was that I allready did not have brakes on the stock tail lights. Figured if I was going to explore the rats nest of 30 years of wiring, may as well replace the lamps too.

Sparto tails are just the following style. A ton of different mfgs. produce them:


I did test it the way you had suggested. Find a known good 12v source, and verified both the dim & bright functions on the light work. I also checked this on a "standard" trailer light. The dim would work, but the bright would "warm" up.