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Cool. I'm witcha there DC!
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JMO but if it took 6 months for a completely cleaned brake system to get enough gunk to clog the spooge hole, one of two things are going on.
One, the PO was very generous in describing their efforts as a "thorough cleaning" and they simply pushed new fluid in.
Two, those "new" lines are revitalized lines and the inerds are sluffing off and that is what your finding as goo in the bottom that plugged the spooge hole.
That much gunk building up in 6 months time is a sign something is not right in there.Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750Comment
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Also could be that the steel line on the rear is rusting from the inside out. I doing mine was rusted shut when I first got my XS.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore RooseveltComment
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Well, an update! I know you are all waiting on the edges of your seat.
Went and got some fresh brake fluid after work, and hand-bled the master cylinder (pumping with thumb over port). Then, attached it all and checked the freeplay. It's right on the money, the rod is just touching the bottom of the piston, but not putting pressure on it. Bled it back to the caliper (other end of the line), no problem. Then bled it at the caliper.
After all that -- it worked. Took about an hour and a half total to pull the master cyl, clean it thoroughly, put it back on, and bleed it. Anyone who is hesitating about doing this, I have never worked on a motorcycle before ever, and I did not use the manual. I have some car wrenching experience, though.
Test drove it and whoa at the pedal pressure. AND, it releases.
Thank you all for your help! I could probably do the whole job now in 30 minutes, which I might have to again. I am keeping an eye on the steel lines at the rear -- they don't appear to be rusting, but I don't trust OEM 30 year old hard steel lines.XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT
Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.Comment
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I have an idea that a "thorough cleaning" involved half-heartedly wiping the top of the MC reservoir. The lines and pads are new, and the calipers were cleaned well, but the master cylinder hasn't been touched.Originally posted by DGXSER View PostLast edited by Danny Crawdad; 08-03-2011, 06:05 PM.XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT
Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.Comment
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Who needs brakes anyway, they just slow ya down!
Glad yer binders are workin' again. I would want to clean the calipers as well just so I don't have the same problem reoccur down the road a piece...Comment
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Bad brakes scare the crap out of me, but that seems to be the prevailing opinion as much as they get ignored.Originally posted by Shacknasty View Post
100% with you, I've ordered pads anyway too just to do it up right. They're working fine now, but there's no reason not to for peace of mind. Brakes locking up in traffic was NOT a fun experience, and not one I intend to repeat. I had to dump clutch at about 4-5k to get it in motion (otherwise I was blocking a very busy downtown intersection at peak of rush hour), and if I let off full throttle or used the clutch the rear tire would lock up and damn near sling me off when it bit. I really think I only managed to stay in control of the bike because of my size. Thankfully I was about half a mile from home.
I'd like to have a rebuild kit on hand before I mess with the front master cylinder, it seems like they die easily from what I've read. The rear kit is not as easily found. The rubber seems to be holding up well, though, so I'm not worried about it yet.Last edited by Danny Crawdad; 08-03-2011, 06:25 PM.XS11SH :: K&N Pods, 4->1, Dynojet kit, Barnett clutch springs, TC's fuse block, ATGATT
Well, goodness. Look what we've got here.Comment
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Most times I have not used a rebuild kit. A good cleaning is all that I usually do and so far I've done a lot of stopping. Of course when something needs it, I have installed all new parts.
One thing that I have always done after a rebuild is to apply the brakes as hard as I can before I ever start the motor. It's a good way to ensure that the seals, etc., are in good shape.Comment
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