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Automotive paint X powder coat for wheels

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  • Automotive paint X powder coat for wheels

    Hello my fellow 11 enthusiasts. I'm getting ready to do some customizing and I'm wondering if anyone knows the pros and cons of two part automotive paint compared to powder coating for the wheels. Of course, the two main things would be appearance and durability. If I go with the powder coating I'd have to farm it out, if I go with the automotive I'll do it myself. Thank you for any thoughts you may have
    '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

    Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

  • #2
    Powdercoating will be more durable, but the downside is you'll have to pull/replace the wheel bearings as they won't take the cure heat (well, the bearings can, but the grease in them can't). Additionally, the rear wheel has non-removable/non-replaceable rubber cushions pressed in for the drive spline hub, and the heat will very likely ruin those too.

    I'd stick with paint...
    Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

    '78E original owner - resto project
    '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
    '82 XJ rebuild project
    '80SG restified, red SOLD
    '79F parts...
    '81H more parts...

    Other current bikes:
    '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
    '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
    '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
    Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
    Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

    Comment


    • #3
      The down side of powder coat is that you have to take everything, that is susceptible to heat, off of the wheels. Like the rubber bushings in the back one, and the seals in each of them.
      Paint, mask 'em. CZ

      Comment


      • #4
        How many fingers do you type with, Steve?
        I only know how to do it with two. CZ

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by CaptonZap View Post
          How many fingers do you type with, Steve?
          I only know how to do it with two. CZ
          I can get all the way up to four....
          Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

          '78E original owner - resto project
          '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
          '82 XJ rebuild project
          '80SG restified, red SOLD
          '79F parts...
          '81H more parts...

          Other current bikes:
          '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
          '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
          '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
          Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
          Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

          Comment


          • #6
            OK guys, I think that answers it. Meanwhile I've been doing some searches online for wheel paint and it seems as though Eastwood makes some quality products that should work well.
            '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

            Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

            Comment


            • #7
              Wheel Paint

              Duplicolor and Krylon have wheel paints available at your local parts house.
              78 XS1100E Standard
              Coca Cola Red
              Hooker Headers

              http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC00580.jpg

              1979 XS1100 Special
              http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC00612.jpg

              1980 XS Standard
              http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC01137.jpg

              2006 Roadstar Warrior
              http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...um/warrior.jpg

              Comment


              • #8
                If you have the ability and equipment to use the 2 part urathen paints, that is what I would go with. Prep the wheels just like you would any other metal part (clean, body work, prime, sand, prime, sand, prime, sand....,...,...,... paint, sand, clear coat) and you should have a VERY nice set of wheels. You can also do the masking and polish up the aluminum that is not painted prior to clear coating the whole thing to keep the shine looking good for a good long time.
                -- Clint
                1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yes, that's the route I'm thinking of taking. I am a house painter and have experience spraying as well as the equipment including a cup gun and compressor. Right now I'm trying to decide on my exact color scheme/design. I want predominantly black wheels with yellow or gold in there somewhere. I'll probably go with a semigloss finish since I don't care for flat but on the other hand, the wheel castings are a little rough and I think gloss would accentuate that too much.
                  '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

                  Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    One note: A HUGE difference between house paint and automotive paints (specifically the 2 part catalyzed urethane paints) is just how nasty they are are when you breath them. Do NOT try to paint urethane paint with just a dust mask. Minimum is a M95 respirator with organic filters. Make sure you have good air flow also. You really don't want to breath this stuff.
                    -- Clint
                    1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thank you for that tip. I do have those masks and will wear one.
                      '79 XS11 Special, fork gaiters, Uni pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, ditched the octy, solo seat, T kat fork brace

                      Purrs like a kitten, runs like a scalded cat

                      Comment

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