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  • Clutch Hub?

    Looked it up on the parts finder and I was supprised to learn its name was Clutch hub.

    http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/partinfo...H7-25366-00-00

    I would think it would be wheel gear or somthing like that.

    What I would like to ask is it particularly difficult to remove. Does anyone have any tips on removal.

    I'm converting for tube type rims and need to reuse the clutch hub.

    TIA
    Rick
    XS1100F TKAT fork brace Stock suspension. Vetter Fairing. Pingel Petcocks. Geezer voltage regulator
    http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3026.jpg
    650SF
    http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2647.jpg
    XS1100SG Project bike
    http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3034.jpg

  • #2
    Sorry, I've ne er removed one personally so I don't know how much help I will be there... What is your plan for going tubless? The reason I ask is I just converted my rear tube rim to tubless.... just tapped the two through holes for the bead lock bolts and put a 3/8-16 set screw in with a whole bunch of JB Weld. Presto! Tubless rim. There are others who have done the same thing. And, don't worry its been field tested and haven't had any problems. Got 1500 miles on mine now...
    '79 XS11 F
    Stock except K&N

    '79 XS11 SF
    Stock, no title.

    '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
    GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

    "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

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    • #3
      In addition, crazy steve has both rim types, and has done a direct compare, and while there actually ARE differences in the shape of the bead area and such on the front rims, the rear are the exact same castings without the bead lock holes, so it is indeed only that you need to seal the bead lock holes. Some have used them for additional valve stems , but most have just put something in there to seal, using something to seal and lock the screw in place (generally loctite).
      Cy

      1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
      Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
      Vetter Windjammer IV
      Vetter hard bags & Trunk
      OEM Luggage Rack
      Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
      Spade Fuse Box
      Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
      750 FD Mod
      TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
      XJ1100 Front Footpegs
      XJ1100 Shocks

      I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

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      • #4
        Here's one way to plug the bead-lock holes.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32340

        As far as swapping hubs, just undo the nuts on the rotor side of the wheel and tap it out. They will get a bit rusty sometimes and need a small bit of 'persuasion'....
        Last edited by crazy steve; 07-28-2011, 04:34 PM.
        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

        '78E original owner - resto project
        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
        '82 XJ rebuild project
        '80SG restified, red SOLD
        '79F parts...
        '81H more parts...

        Other current bikes:
        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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        • #5
          Originally posted by WMarshy View Post
          Sorry, I've ne er removed one personally so I don't know how much help I will be there... What is your plan for going tubless? The reason I ask is I just converted my rear tube rim to tubless.... just tapped the two through holes for the bead lock bolts and put a 3/8-16 set screw in with a whole bunch of JB Weld. Presto! Tubless rim. There are others who have done the same thing. And, don't worry its been field tested and haven't had any problems. Got 1500 miles on mine now...
          I appreciate that others have converted tube type rims to tubless without any problems. I however opted to get some tubless rims. They weren't too expensive $100.00 for both with shipping.

          It is giving me an opportunity to paint them, replace tires and bearings while I still ride and when I'm all done I can just swap them out with little down time.
          XS1100F TKAT fork brace Stock suspension. Vetter Fairing. Pingel Petcocks. Geezer voltage regulator
          http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3026.jpg
          650SF
          http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2647.jpg
          XS1100SG Project bike
          http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3034.jpg

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by crazy steve View Post
            Here's one way to plug the bead-lock holes.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32340

            As far as swapping hubs, just undo the nuts on the rotor side of the wheel and tap it out. They will get a bit rusty sometimes and need a small bit of 'persuasion'....
            Being a plumber that tip is right up my alley.

            Thanks Steve
            XS1100F TKAT fork brace Stock suspension. Vetter Fairing. Pingel Petcocks. Geezer voltage regulator
            http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3026.jpg
            650SF
            http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF2647.jpg
            XS1100SG Project bike
            http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=DSCF3034.jpg

            Comment

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